OT -5 cylinder ford ranger part III - transmission seals

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OT -5 cylinder ford ranger part III - transmission seals clay 07-19-2008
Posted by clay on July 19, 2008, 2:52 pm
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91 ranger. 3.0 Liter turbo (Just kidding about the turbo part, made you
look)

the saga continues.... And yes I did get it to run as a 5 cylinder, for
a little while, till I decided it wasn't worth the risk, and
rebuilt/swapped in a 6 cyl.

Next saga. Transmission is leaking from the front seal. However, it only
starts leaking after about 30 minutes of driving. (Why would that be?)

What is involved in dropping the tranny/replacing the seal? Is it worth
it? Or should we swap the tranny for another? Rebuild? We can "probably"
replace the entire truck for the cost of a tranny rebuild.

ca

Posted by over a barrel on July 19, 2008, 3:59 pm
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> 91 ranger. 3.0 Liter turbo (Just kidding about the turbo part, made you
> look)
>
> the saga continues.... And yes I did get it to run as a 5 cylinder, for
> a little while, till I decided it wasn't worth the risk, and
> rebuilt/swapped in a 6 cyl.
>
> Next saga. Transmission is leaking from the front seal. However, it only
> starts leaking after about 30 minutes of driving. (Why would that be?)
>
> What is involved in dropping the tranny/replacing the seal? Is it worth
> it? Or should we swap the tranny for another? Rebuild? We can "probably"
> replace the entire truck for the cost of a tranny rebuild.
>

Shouldn't be any different than your garden variety rwd truck....I'd simply
pull and replace the seal throw it back together...simple enough but do make
sure and loosen the torque converter bolts from where they attaches to the
flexplate re-tighten these *after* all the bellhousing bolts are installed
or else runout will cause the new seal to leak....

Actually it's a fairly straight forward job and a staple for any reputable
transmission shop those guys are uniquely set up to quickly and effeciently
R&R auto transmissions and so your standard labor charge is probably gonna
be less than 2 hours labor at shop rate


Anyways if you do it yourself then while your at it suggest drop the pan and
replace fluid, screen and gasket *don't overtighten the pan bolts* or the
sheetmetal will deform and the damned thing will always leak after that--Oh
and I always used some sewing thread to line it up...and if you use silicone
then only apply to the transmission side of the cork--this way then usually
on any subsequent removal the gasketing remains intact.

--



Posted by over a barrel on July 19, 2008, 4:08 pm
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>
> > 91 ranger. 3.0 Liter turbo (Just kidding about the turbo part, made you
> > look)
> >
> > the saga continues.... And yes I did get it to run as a 5 cylinder, for
> > a little while, till I decided it wasn't worth the risk, and
> > rebuilt/swapped in a 6 cyl.
> >
> > Next saga. Transmission is leaking from the front seal. However, it only
> > starts leaking after about 30 minutes of driving. (Why would that be?)
> >
> > What is involved in dropping the tranny/replacing the seal? Is it worth
> > it? Or should we swap the tranny for another? Rebuild? We can "probably"
> > replace the entire truck for the cost of a tranny rebuild.
> >
>
> Shouldn't be any different than your garden variety rwd truck....I'd
simply
> pull and replace the seal throw it back together...simple enough but do
make
> sure and loosen the torque converter bolts from where they attaches to the
> flexplate re-tighten these *after* all the bellhousing bolts are installed
> or else runout will cause the new seal to leak....
>

Also it wipes out the input bearing this is typically a sleeve type with
babbit lining.

>
> Actually it's a fairly straight forward job and a staple for any reputable
> transmission shop those guys are uniquely set up to quickly and
effeciently
> R&R auto transmissions and so your standard labor charge is probably gonna
> be less than 2 hours labor at shop rate
>
>
> Anyways if you do it yourself then while your at it suggest drop the pan
and
> replace fluid, screen and gasket *don't overtighten the pan bolts* or the
> sheetmetal will deform and the damned thing will always leak after
that--Oh
> and I always used some sewing thread to line it up...and if you use
silicone
> then only apply to the transmission side of the cork--this way then
usually

OOPS mean't to say apply to pan side only.

> on any subsequent removal the gasketing remains intact.
>

--



Posted by Alphonso on July 19, 2008, 5:55 pm
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Biggest pain in the ass is getting the exhuast pipes out of the way. Lets
see... the '91 still has the big crossmember for the the strut rods?? If
so, that is a pain to get it out of the way.

Other than that, not anything special, pull tranny, knock seal out of front
pump housing, put new one in, slip torque converter back on, tranny back
in, and as OAB says tighten trans to engine before tightening torque
converter bolts to flexplate.

Beg, borrow, steal, rent, a trans jack!

I would drain hot(operating temp)fluid and replace filter BEFORE pulling
the tranny. That way, the fluid drains while you are fighting the exhaust
pipes and crossmember.

--
Remove "nospam" to get to me.

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