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Posted by on April 9, 2008, 8:50 pm
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Hi,
I recently bought a 12" x 36" lathe with stand. I unpacked the lathe
and attempted to use a engine crane to place it on the stand. As I
found out, unfortunately the legs of the engine crane would not pass
under the lateral brace and even if it did, do to the center of
gravity of the lift point (near the headstock), one of the legs needs
to pass through the stand columns anyway. This is one of those
generic 12x36 lathe stands as I'm sure you've seen.
So I was reading Bill's recent lathe adventures and some one mentioned
to twist the lathe lengthways, with the headstock toward the crane
column, lower the lathe it on the floor, then recouple (so it doesn't
twist back, lift and straddle it onto the stand length ways? .
Is this the way to do it? I was tired when I gave up on it last night,
but it seems like a resonable idea. With my mills I built my own
stands, with the use of a pallet jack and crane in mind so this isn't
an issue. But this is first heavy piece of gear I've got that came
with a stand. When I got sick and tired of it last night I was certain
that I would need to spend a couple hundred dollars on some steel and
weld up a custom stand this weekend, but I would just as soon use the
stand I paid for if possible.
Any pointers?
Thanks
Mal
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Posted by Mechanical Magic on April 9, 2008, 9:50 pm
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On Apr 9, 4:50 pm, malcolms...@gmail.com wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I recently bought a 12" x 36" lathe with stand. I unpacked the lathe
> and attempted to use a engine crane to place it on the stand. As I
> found out, unfortunately the legs of the engine crane would not pass
> under the lateral brace and even if it did, do to the center of
> gravity of the lift point (near the headstock), one of the legs needs
> to pass through the stand columns anyway. This is one of those
> generic 12x36 lathe stands as I'm sure you've seen.
>
> So I was reading Bill's recent lathe adventures and some one mentioned
> to twist the lathe lengthways, with the headstock toward the crane
> column, lower the lathe it on the floor, then recouple (so it doesn't
> twist back, lift and straddle it onto the stand length ways? .
>
> Is this the way to do it? I was tired when I gave up on it last night,
> but it seems like a resonable idea. With my mills I built my own
> stands, with the use of a pallet jack and crane in mind so this isn't
> an issue. But this is first heavy piece of gear I've got that came
> with a stand. When I got sick and tired of it last night I was certain
> that I would need to spend a couple hundred dollars on some steel and
> weld up a custom stand this weekend, but I would just as soon use the
> stand I paid for if possible.
>
> Any pointers?
>
> Thanks
> Mal
Mal,
Worked for me, Griz 4003.
After you get the lathe mounted to the stand, you can go back, stick
the crane legs between the stands.
(Or maybe I straddled the headstock, been a while, like 6 months.)
Then lift the assembly.
ABOUT 1/2".
Lead ass friend can lift/push to keep it level, while you put it in
place.
Moved mine several times, (don't have access to electrical box, and a
shop move).
My shop crane is a HF, folding thing, upgraded with HF air powered
cyl. Needs to be set short, or the legs don't fit.
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Posted by Lloyd E. Sponenburgh on April 10, 2008, 7:31 am
Please log in for more thread options malcolmsmit@gmail.com fired this volley in news:198583f2-23d1-425b-aa7d-
84d6706bedd8@v26g2000prm.googlegroups.com:
> Hi,
>
> I recently bought a 12" x 36" lathe with stand. I unpacked the lathe
> and attempted to use a engine crane to place it on the stand. As I
> found out, unfortunately the legs of the engine crane would not pass
> under the lateral brace and even if it did, do to the center of
> gravity of the lift point (near the headstock), one of the legs needs
> to pass through the stand columns anyway. This is one of those
> generic 12x36 lathe stands as I'm sure you've seen.
It's pretty simple, if you don't mind building a little lumber-work.
Build a gantry over the stand, using heavy lumber, and a a couple of
laminated SYP 2x12's as the cross beam. If you have a stout enough
ceiling, you can use it by running steel strapping over the truss
elements. If not, you can still use the ceiling to hold the beam steady,
and use single posts wedged in and screw-attached at the ends for upright
support.
Now, move the stand out of the way. Lift the lathe (a 12x36 isn't all
that heavy) up into the air. I'd use two locking block'n'tackle rigs;
one on each end. Lock it in place, and tie it off well. (you're about to
do work under it)
Slide the stand back into position, then lower the lathe onto it.
Finally, disassemble your gantry -- at least the uprights. You may want
to leave the beam for a future lift.
We got my 14x40 Reed onto its stand that way. The whole process took
maybe two hours, including building and demolishing the gantry.
LLoyd
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Posted by Pete C. on April 10, 2008, 1:50 pm
Please log in for more thread options
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:
>
> malcolmsmit@gmail.com fired this volley in news:198583f2-23d1-425b-aa7d-
> 84d6706bedd8@v26g2000prm.googlegroups.com:
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > I recently bought a 12" x 36" lathe with stand. I unpacked the lathe
> > and attempted to use a engine crane to place it on the stand. As I
> > found out, unfortunately the legs of the engine crane would not pass
> > under the lateral brace and even if it did, do to the center of
> > gravity of the lift point (near the headstock), one of the legs needs
> > to pass through the stand columns anyway. This is one of those
> > generic 12x36 lathe stands as I'm sure you've seen.
>
> It's pretty simple, if you don't mind building a little lumber-work.
>
> Build a gantry over the stand, using heavy lumber, and a a couple of
> laminated SYP 2x12's as the cross beam. If you have a stout enough
> ceiling, you can use it by running steel strapping over the truss
> elements. If not, you can still use the ceiling to hold the beam steady,
> and use single posts wedged in and screw-attached at the ends for upright
> support.
>
> Now, move the stand out of the way. Lift the lathe (a 12x36 isn't all
> that heavy) up into the air. I'd use two locking block'n'tackle rigs;
> one on each end. Lock it in place, and tie it off well. (you're about to
> do work under it)
>
> Slide the stand back into position, then lower the lathe onto it.
> Finally, disassemble your gantry -- at least the uprights. You may want
> to leave the beam for a future lift.
>
> We got my 14x40 Reed onto its stand that way. The whole process took
> maybe two hours, including building and demolishing the gantry.
>
> LLoyd
>
You can avoid the lumber construction issues by using scaffolding which
is pretty cheap to rent and rather useful to own.
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Posted by Spehro Pefhany on April 10, 2008, 2:38 pm
Please log in for more thread options wrote:
>
>"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:
>>
>> malcolmsmit@gmail.com fired this volley in news:198583f2-23d1-425b-aa7d-
>> 84d6706bedd8@v26g2000prm.googlegroups.com:
>>
>> > Hi,
>> >
>> > I recently bought a 12" x 36" lathe with stand. I unpacked the lathe
>> > and attempted to use a engine crane to place it on the stand. As I
>> > found out, unfortunately the legs of the engine crane would not pass
>> > under the lateral brace and even if it did, do to the center of
>> > gravity of the lift point (near the headstock), one of the legs needs
>> > to pass through the stand columns anyway. This is one of those
>> > generic 12x36 lathe stands as I'm sure you've seen.
>>
>> It's pretty simple, if you don't mind building a little lumber-work.
>>
>> Build a gantry over the stand, using heavy lumber, and a a couple of
>> laminated SYP 2x12's as the cross beam. If you have a stout enough
>> ceiling, you can use it by running steel strapping over the truss
>> elements. If not, you can still use the ceiling to hold the beam steady,
>> and use single posts wedged in and screw-attached at the ends for upright
>> support.
>>
>> Now, move the stand out of the way. Lift the lathe (a 12x36 isn't all
>> that heavy) up into the air. I'd use two locking block'n'tackle rigs;
>> one on each end. Lock it in place, and tie it off well. (you're about to
>> do work under it)
>>
>> Slide the stand back into position, then lower the lathe onto it.
>> Finally, disassemble your gantry -- at least the uprights. You may want
>> to leave the beam for a future lift.
>>
>> We got my 14x40 Reed onto its stand that way. The whole process took
>> maybe two hours, including building and demolishing the gantry.
>>
>> LLoyd
>>
>
>You can avoid the lumber construction issues by using scaffolding which
>is pretty cheap to rent and rather useful to own.
YMMV, but I've moved a few machines onto stands with a small chain
hoist and lifting sling.
Eg.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=996
Of course you need to find or make something above it to attach the
hoist to (and it has to be something like a couple of feet higher).
Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
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>
> I recently bought a 12" x 36" lathe with stand. I unpacked the lathe
> and attempted to use a engine crane to place it on the stand. As I
> found out, unfortunately the legs of the engine crane would not pass
> under the lateral brace and even if it did, do to the center of
> gravity of the lift point (near the headstock), one of the legs needs
> to pass through the stand columns anyway. This is one of those
> generic 12x36 lathe stands as I'm sure you've seen.
>
> So I was reading Bill's recent lathe adventures and some one mentioned
> to twist the lathe lengthways, with the headstock toward the crane
> column, lower the lathe it on the floor, then recouple (so it doesn't
> twist back, lift and straddle it onto the stand length ways? .
>
> Is this the way to do it? I was tired when I gave up on it last night,
> but it seems like a resonable idea. With my mills I built my own
> stands, with the use of a pallet jack and crane in mind so this isn't
> an issue. But this is first heavy piece of gear I've got that came
> with a stand. When I got sick and tired of it last night I was certain
> that I would need to spend a couple hundred dollars on some steel and
> weld up a custom stand this weekend, but I would just as soon use the
> stand I paid for if possible.
>
> Any pointers?
>
> Thanks
> Mal