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Posted by Michael Koblic on May 29, 2008, 2:17 am
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Ha! The economics of tools is something I only started appreciating the last
two years.
Canadian Tire is very funny like that. They have obviously acquired a boat
load of various tools they have difficulty shifting. Even heavy discounts
(4-1/2" angle grinder for less than $20) do not seem to help. Then they
start inventing all kinds of gimmicks to sell the stuff - in the case of the
said grinder they made a stand for it to make it into a quasi-chop saw. I
doubt that they sold many.
They have produced a "cutting tool" which is like nothing else. It also does
not sell as judging by the on-going discounts. I had a look at it - it was
quite useless!
There are quite a few other examples.
I sort of looked at the tile saw last time it went on sale (I was cutting
stones at one stage) but dismissed it as my grinder did the same job with a
diamond blade - dry!
To be fair, they do sell some very good stuff and they have a liberal return
policy.
Thanks for the tip.
--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC
> Nope, no problem as long as I kept the water flowing. I would bet the
> plastic would melt without coolant. Don't try to cut the notches all in
> one pass and let the part cool down a bit and it would reduce the risk to
> about zero.
>
> I can't imagine why a company that also make metal cutting tools would
> tell you not to buy a cheaper tool to do the same job ;-)
>
> The tile saw I have uses the same grinder that I use for normal use, it
> does have a rubber sleeve that keep water out but other than that it's the
> same design.
>
> --
> Steve W.
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Posted by Steve W. on May 29, 2008, 12:28 pm
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Michael Koblic wrote:
> Ha! The economics of tools is something I only started appreciating the last
> two years.
> Canadian Tire is very funny like that. They have obviously acquired a boat
> load of various tools they have difficulty shifting. Even heavy discounts
> (4-1/2" angle grinder for less than $20) do not seem to help. Then they
> start inventing all kinds of gimmicks to sell the stuff - in the case of the
> said grinder they made a stand for it to make it into a quasi-chop saw. I
> doubt that they sold many.
>
> They have produced a "cutting tool" which is like nothing else. It also does
> not sell as judging by the on-going discounts. I had a look at it - it was
> quite useless!
>
> There are quite a few other examples.
>
> I sort of looked at the tile saw last time it went on sale (I was cutting
> stones at one stage) but dismissed it as my grinder did the same job with a
> diamond blade - dry!
>
> To be fair, they do sell some very good stuff and they have a liberal return
> policy.
>
> Thanks for the tip.
>
I have a version of the mini chop saw mounted on the end of the bench.
It's handy for cutting off bolts and all thread type stuff.
You get a square cut and less time gets spent chasing after the small
pieces you just cut off and sent flying into that pile of oily rags!!!
--
Steve W.
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Posted by Gerald Miller on May 29, 2008, 7:40 pm
Please log in for more thread options On Wed, 28 May 2008 23:17:45 -0700, "Michael Koblic"
>Ha! The economics of tools is something I only started appreciating the last
>two years.
>Canadian Tire is very funny like that. They have obviously acquired a boat
>load of various tools they have difficulty shifting. Even heavy discounts
>(4-1/2" angle grinder for less than $20) do not seem to help. Then they
>start inventing all kinds of gimmicks to sell the stuff - in the case of the
>said grinder they made a stand for it to make it into a quasi-chop saw. I
>doubt that they sold many.
>
>They have produced a "cutting tool" which is like nothing else. It also does
>not sell as judging by the on-going discounts. I had a look at it - it was
>quite useless!
>
>There are quite a few other examples.
>
>I sort of looked at the tile saw last time it went on sale (I was cutting
>stones at one stage) but dismissed it as my grinder did the same job with a
>diamond blade - dry!
>
>To be fair, they do sell some very good stuff and they have a liberal return
>policy.
>
>Thanks for the tip.
Usta be, back some 50 years, you went to CTC to buy car/bike parts;
then they added fishing tackle. Now they have so many gim-cracks and
gew-gaws, they had to open Partsource to sell anything to do with
automobiles, and the last time I was THERE (because TSC was moving and
had sold out of 3/8" gas line hose and second son was stranded) THEY
wanted 5xprice for a piece. Anybody want a collection of "funny munny"
cause I don't go there no mo!
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
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Posted by Michael Koblic on May 29, 2008, 11:02 pm
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>> Usta be, back some 50 years, you went to CTC to buy car/bike parts;
> then they added fishing tackle. Now they have so many gim-cracks and
> gew-gaws, they had to open Partsource to sell anything to do with
> automobiles, and the last time I was THERE (because TSC was moving and
> had sold out of 3/8" gas line hose and second son was stranded) THEY
> wanted 5xprice for a piece. Anybody want a collection of "funny munny"
> cause I don't go there no mo!
That would ruin a good part of my social life!
Here the choices are:
1) CT
2) House of Tools - you have to pick and choose. I am still waiting for two
$5 clamps 2 moths later. OTOH, they are the cheapest suppliers of
threadlockers. YMMV
3) Home Hardware - excellent for fasteners, forget everything else
4) Rona - forget it!
5) Acklands-Grainger - OK if you are a Company and loaded
or, after 46 km drive
5) Home Depot
6) Midland tools - odd shop that. Stock seems endless but when you look for
specifics they seem to be "just out". Good prices though.
--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC
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Posted by Jim Wilkins on May 27, 2008, 9:16 am
Please log in for more thread options > I have to cut 2 perfectly matching slots in a 5 mm thick flat semicircular=
> piece of steel, each 15 mm by 5mm.....
>
> Michael Koblic,
> Campbell River, BC
"perfectly matching slots" cut by hand???
Try a dish wheel in your angle grinder to gouge out most of the slot,
otherwise this is a job for cold chisels. Use a "cape" chisel to cut
narrow slots on the sides and a regular cold chisel to remove the
center. You still need good eye protection but this is a lot safer
than watching the line closely in a shower of sparks.
Grind the teeth off one edge of a file to make it cut sharp inside
corners and only work one surface at a time. Coarse files are better
for long cuts because the teeth don't fill with chips halfway through
the stroke.
The real answer is to pull yourself out of the 18th century and get
adequate machine tools. The skill to do good work by hand takes a long
apprenticeship to acquire but has almost no commercial value any more,
unless you are an artist. What's your time worth?
I picked auctions and second-hand dealers as my best time-vs-money
tradeoff. Even very old machines can cut metal more quickly and
accurately than I ever could by hand. My time is spent fixing/
restoring them and sharpening cutters. Almost everything I own was
broken when bought and still has problems but they work well enough
most of the time. When I'm stopped by one of their problems I fix it.
I think the minimum satisfactory home or experimental shop equipment
is a mill-drill or small vertical knee mill and a 9" - 12" lathe.
Smaller machines are OK to make models but not for equipment that does
useful work.
I have a Clausing vertical mill, a 10" South Bend lathe, a 4X6 bandsaw
and don't see the need for anything larger, and I built a log
splitter, a sawmill, and bucket loader for my garden tractor with
them. I could put up with a mill-drill for most projects.
A small horizontal mill could substitute if you get a good deal but
then you need a better drill press, and new cutters are much more
expensive than end mills.
Jim Wilkins
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> plastic would melt without coolant. Don't try to cut the notches all in
> one pass and let the part cool down a bit and it would reduce the risk to
> about zero.
>
> I can't imagine why a company that also make metal cutting tools would
> tell you not to buy a cheaper tool to do the same job ;-)
>
> The tile saw I have uses the same grinder that I use for normal use, it
> does have a rubber sleeve that keep water out but other than that it's the
> same design.
>
> --
> Steve W.