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Posted by stryped on April 21, 2008, 1:17 pm
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> Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
>
> ...
>
> > The "ideal" rod for any slap-up welding on mild steel is the venerable
> > E6011. =A0That rod will run a good bead all by itself, just leaning agai=
nst
> > the work.
>
> In the other reply, Ned also recommended 6011, and that is the most
> common reply to a "What all-round rod is good?" question. =A0But I gotta
> say that I like 6013 much better. =A0My welding is little & far between,
> so I get out of practice & maybe that's why I find the 6013 better. =A0For=
> me, it's much easier to strike and run than 6011. =A0It's also said that
> 6011 is better for rusty steel, but I haven't had a problem with 6013 &
> rust.
>
> I've never even tried 7018 because of the need to keep it dry. =A0It's
> advantage couldn't be worth the extra fussin'. =A0For me.
>
> Not at all an expert, just a guy with an opinion,
> Bob
I was always told 6011 is a "dirty" rod. "Althought I think I can weld
with it better than the 7018. I have a bunch of 7018 I bought though
because I "heard" it was better.
Would you feel confident making a dual axle trailer with 6011?
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Posted by Lloyd E. Sponenburgh on April 21, 2008, 1:28 pm
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4657-98c4-c73819e01c2e@z24g2000prf.googlegroups.com:
> I was always told 6011 is a "dirty" rod. "Althought I think I can weld
> with it better than the 7018. I have a bunch of 7018 I bought though
> because I "heard" it was better.
>
> Would you feel confident making a dual axle trailer with 6011?
Most of it, yes. But those areas under high stress should be welded with
the 7018 if you can muster it -- Gussets, spring hangers, stuff like
that. That rod exists to prevent hydrogen embrittlement of the base
metal. Even mild steel can benefit from its use.
But it's a damnably hard rod to weld with on a buzz-box unless you spend
a good bit of time with it on samples.
LLoyd
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Posted by Ignoramus4289 on April 21, 2008, 1:23 pm
Please log in for more thread options > In the other reply, Ned also recommended 6011, and that is the most
> common reply to a "What all-round rod is good?" question. But I gotta
> say that I like 6013 much better. My welding is little & far between,
> so I get out of practice & maybe that's why I find the 6013 better. For
> me, it's much easier to strike and run than 6011. It's also said that
> 6011 is better for rusty steel, but I haven't had a problem with 6013 &
> rust.
>
> I've never even tried 7018 because of the need to keep it dry. It's
> advantage couldn't be worth the extra fussin'. For me.
>
> Not at all an expert, just a guy with an opinion,
I am not an expert either, 6013 is the easiest rod to weld with and
restrike the arc. I use it when I just want to slap two pieces of
metal quickly. Last time I used it was Saturday. Used it to make a
chuck key for an acquaintaince.
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/
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Posted by Lloyd E. Sponenburgh on April 21, 2008, 1:32 pm
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> But I gotta
> say that I like 6013 much better. My welding is little & far between,
> so I get out of practice & maybe that's why I find the 6013 better.
The flux is different, so that might make a little perceived difference
it how it feels -- but it doesn't make much difference in the quality of
the weld or general arc stability when you're using AC. One's "straight
polarity or AC" (xx13) and the other is "reverse polarity or AC" (xx11).
I've also heard that the 6011 was "the farmer's rod" for rusty work. I
always clean up the weld area first, so I've never tested the theory.
LLoyd
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Posted by RoyJ on April 21, 2008, 2:58 pm
Please log in for more thread options 6013 gives a 'soft' arc and has a lift off by itself slag. Nice looking
bead, works great for clean metal and production work on thin metal.
It's designed for AC operation, works great on most buzz box welders.
(OK, the low end 120 volt jobs won't do anything even with 6013)
6011 give a harder arc, is the rod of choice for all around buzz box
welding. The hard arc gives it more penetration, deals well with paint,
heavy rust, or light layer of oil. The slag is much more crystalline
than 6013, you really have to chip it hard. Downside is that the bead is
not as nice looking as 6013 and tends to have more spatter.
There are some 7018 rods designed for AC machines, Lincoln 7018 AC is
one of them. Most of the rest can be run on AC (check mfg literature to
be sure) but they tend to give a LOT of spatter.
I use 6013 for things like Jeep bumpers from new steel, 6011 for
galvanized steel, used steel with some paint or heavy rust, repair work
where I can't get the best weld prep, and anything requiring deep
penetration. 7018 gets reserved for critical welds on trailers and
trailer hitches. So frame corners and spring perches would get 7018,
deck plates would be 6013.
Take a look at the mfg literature. Here's the one from Lincoln
http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/literature/c210.pdf
Bob Engelhardt wrote:
> Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
> ...
>> The "ideal" rod for any slap-up welding on mild steel is the venerable
>> E6011. That rod will run a good bead all by itself, just leaning
>> against the work.
>
> In the other reply, Ned also recommended 6011, and that is the most
> common reply to a "What all-round rod is good?" question. But I gotta
> say that I like 6013 much better. My welding is little & far between,
> so I get out of practice & maybe that's why I find the 6013 better. For
> me, it's much easier to strike and run than 6011. It's also said that
> 6011 is better for rusty steel, but I haven't had a problem with 6013 &
> rust.
>
> I've never even tried 7018 because of the need to keep it dry. It's
> advantage couldn't be worth the extra fussin'. For me.
>
> Not at all an expert, just a guy with an opinion,
> Bob
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