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Posted by Karl Townsend on May 14, 2008, 4:31 pm
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> Did you build your own? I have an old Jeager compressor with a dead 4 cyl
> Continental that I have been thinking about rigging to run with a PTO. I
> would like to get the compressor to run at least 1000 to 1500 rpm.
Ayup. Just use a double pulley and belt. Step it up 4:1 so you can leave the
tractor just a crack over idle. A 100# LP tank makes a great air bladder.
Karl
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Posted by Up North on May 14, 2008, 5:25 pm
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>
>> Did you build your own? I have an old Jeager compressor with a dead 4 cyl
>> Continental that I have been thinking about rigging to run with a PTO. I
>> would like to get the compressor to run at least 1000 to 1500 rpm.
>
> Ayup. Just use a double pulley and belt. Step it up 4:1 so you can leave
> the tractor just a crack over idle. A 100# LP tank makes a great air
> bladder.
>
> Karl
>
>
This one is still in the trailer. The tank, controls even a jack hammer is
still there.
Steve
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Posted by Martin H. Eastburn on May 14, 2008, 9:51 pm
Please log in for more thread options PTO = Power Take Off.
It is a spline rod sticking out the back end of the tractor
and from the massive transmission. With the tractor at full stop and
brakes on, one can attach the pto to another unit and when the PTO rotates
it does something.
PTO's often turn blades or rotating things. Mowers and ....
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/
stryped wrote:
> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> I have a Craftsman 30 gallon 5 horsepower 110 volt air compressor. It
>>> puts out 6 cfm at 90. I would like to be able to paint and do more
>>> such as sandblast. Could I get another similar sized compressor and
>>> hook the both togther or do I have to break down and just buy an
>>> expensive bigger compressor?
>> Boy, those sears horses are getting really small. 5hp on 110 and it only
>> gives you 6 cfm?
>>
>> To answer your question, putting two together is a good idea for those heavy
>> use jobs. I gang my 7.5 two stage and the tractor PTO unit for sandblasting.
>>
>> Karl
>
> What is a tractor PTO unit? I dont knwo if I have seen on eof those?
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Posted by William Noble on May 14, 2008, 2:29 am
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>I have a Craftsman 30 gallon 5 horsepower 110 volt air compressor. It
> puts out 6 cfm at 90. I would like to be able to paint and do more
> such as sandblast. Could I get another similar sized compressor and
> hook the both togther or do I have to break down and just buy an
> expensive bigger compressor?
yes, you can hook compressors in parallel.
but let me point something else out to you - your compressor is called 5 HP,
and puts out 6 cfm. I have a crafstman compressor (that I no longer use) -
it says "2 hp" and it puts out 7.2 CFM at the same PSI. What does that tell
you..... it tells you that you are not getting a real 5 HP compressor.
Moreover, at 750 watts per HP (minimum), 5 HP would be 3750 watts, which at
110V is 34 amps - I'll bet your compressor doesn't draw more than 20 amps.
So, Sears lied to you about the compressor.
I also have a 5 HP compressor, made by Quincy - it weighs about 850 pounds
and puts out 21 CFM at 160 PSI.
Moral - beware of high horsepower cheap compressors. What you really have
is a 1 hp compressor with an oversized motor. You will be happier if you
can find a surplus or used "real" compressor - look for a large compressor
with two pistons and a belt drive, look for a real 2HP motor - should draw
15 amps (for two HP) continuous at 110. Or if you can wire for 220, go to a
220V compressor - you will get a better unit and will be happier.
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
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Posted by Bruce L. Bergman on May 14, 2008, 2:49 pm
Please log in for more thread options On Tue, 13 May 2008 14:06:35 -0700 (PDT), stryped
>I have a Craftsman 30 gallon 5 horsepower 110 volt air compressor. It
>puts out 6 cfm at 90.
Break there. You have a "5 SEARS Horsepower" compressor. "Peak HP"
is not the same thing as actual HP - it's what the motor will put out
when so overloaded it's almost stalled, and right before it burns up.
For a 110-Volt model, if you do the math on the running amps it's
more likely a 1 real NEMA rated HP. You can't really get much more on
a 120V 20A receptacle circuit - 1 HP at 120V draws 16A, to get more
power you have to go to 240V and/or hard-wired units.
Here's a clue - when you find the HP Rating box on the motor maker's
nameplate is filled in with "SPL" - Special. They won't lie for the
marketing folks at Sears, so they leave it blank.
> I would like to be able to paint and do more
>such as sandblast. Could I get another similar sized compressor and
>hook the both togther or do I have to break down and just buy an
>expensive bigger compressor?
Either one. If you hook two units together with a hard pipe make
sure they are roughly matched. You can NOT simply parallel the tanks
between a two-stage permanent compressor running 175 PSI in the tank
and a little portable that stops at 110 PSI - the two-stage will keep
running and pop off the safety valve on the portable.
You could parallel two units after the output pressure regulators,
and with check valves so the high pressure unit can't backfeed into
the receiver tank on the portable.
And remember that electric motors on compressors should not be
cycled on more than about five times an hour with a minimum 5 minute
running cycle, or you can burn up the motor - every start uses 'locked
rotor' current draw to start the motor, and it takes running for a
while to let the cooling fan draw that heat out of the windings. One
short cycle a day won't kill a motor, but dozens a day in rapid
succession sure will.
When sandblasting or doing other high air draw jobs it's better to
let the main compressor just keep running to keep up, don't start and
stop and force the compressor to short-cycle - do NOT wait for the
compressor to catch up and stop then start blasting again right away.
Much better to stop for a minute and watch the tank gauge, and when it
is approaching normal start blasting again and let the compressor stay
running...
This is why commercial units can be ordered with a constant-run
unloader system, just like a gasoline engine compressor. The motor
keeps running and stays cool while the compressor isn't working, and
the power draw is minimal (but not zero) with no work performed.
For factories this makes much more sense than stopping and starting
the motor several times an hour, with every start surge counting
against the KVA rate meter for the utility. (The higher the peak
power you use, the higher the KWH rate for the power.)
--<< Bruce >>--
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> Continental that I have been thinking about rigging to run with a PTO. I
> would like to get the compressor to run at least 1000 to 1500 rpm.