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Posted by Ignoramus20633 on June 15, 2008, 12:21 am
Please log in for more thread options
Moved it into the garage since it is now on casters.
I added a pressure gauge and pumped the tank to 21 PSI. (just trying
to stay safe). I will see how it will look in the morning. I went
around the compressor and did not hear any hissing or bubbling noises.
The drain was open, I had to close it, which I consider to be a good
sign.
But here's something else. From just a few minutes of running, the
motor got rather hot, despite having a proper fan installed in the
back and the rear fan guard.
I measured the AC current going to the motor. The current was 33
amp. The motor is rated at 25 amp.
If the heat losses are R*I^2, then the motor was producing (33/25)^2 =
1.74 times the heat that it was designed for, and turned more slowly
so it could not move as much air as it was designed to. That's why it
got so hot.
This leads me to believe that Wayne was right (as usual) and this is a
7.5 HP pump and not a 5 HP pump. It definitely needs a 7.5 HP motor,
or a slow 5 HP motor.
So, while nothing is really wrong with the components that were put
together by some previous owner, the "stuff" does not fit together
correctly. It was very fortunate that that guy could not finish the
wiring job and did not burn the motor out trying to run this pump.
--
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to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
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Posted by Ignoramus20633 on June 15, 2008, 1:08 am
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Or maybe I wired the run capacitor the wrong way?
i
> Moved it into the garage since it is now on casters.
>
> I added a pressure gauge and pumped the tank to 21 PSI. (just trying
> to stay safe). I will see how it will look in the morning. I went
> around the compressor and did not hear any hissing or bubbling noises.
>
> The drain was open, I had to close it, which I consider to be a good
> sign.
>
> But here's something else. From just a few minutes of running, the
> motor got rather hot, despite having a proper fan installed in the
> back and the rear fan guard.
>
> I measured the AC current going to the motor. The current was 33
> amp. The motor is rated at 25 amp.
>
> If the heat losses are R*I^2, then the motor was producing (33/25)^2 =
> 1.74 times the heat that it was designed for, and turned more slowly
> so it could not move as much air as it was designed to. That's why it
> got so hot.
>
> This leads me to believe that Wayne was right (as usual) and this is a
> 7.5 HP pump and not a 5 HP pump. It definitely needs a 7.5 HP motor,
> or a slow 5 HP motor.
>
> So, while nothing is really wrong with the components that were put
> together by some previous owner, the "stuff" does not fit together
> correctly. It was very fortunate that that guy could not finish the
> wiring job and did not burn the motor out trying to run this pump.
>
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
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|
Posted by William Noble on June 15, 2008, 1:19 am
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> Or maybe I wired the run capacitor the wrong way?
>
> i
>
>> Moved it into the garage since it is now on casters.
>>
>> I added a pressure gauge and pumped the tank to 21 PSI. (just trying
>> to stay safe). I will see how it will look in the morning. I went
>> around the compressor and did not hear any hissing or bubbling noises.
the extra current is most likely from the start winding remaining engaged,
not from being the wrong sized motor for the compressor - double check your
wiring, including the capacitor, etc, make sure the caps are good, etc
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
|
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Posted by Ignoramus20633 on June 15, 2008, 1:32 am
Please log in for more thread options >
>> Or maybe I wired the run capacitor the wrong way?
>>
>> i
>>
>>> Moved it into the garage since it is now on casters.
>>>
>>> I added a pressure gauge and pumped the tank to 21 PSI. (just trying
>>> to stay safe). I will see how it will look in the morning. I went
>>> around the compressor and did not hear any hissing or bubbling noises.
>
> the extra current is most likely from the start winding remaining engaged,
> not from being the wrong sized motor for the compressor - double check your
> wiring, including the capacitor, etc, make sure the caps are good, etc
That would be easy to check tomorrow, is there any AC voltage on
starting caps during running. Right?
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
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posting on Usenet.
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|
Posted by Ignoramus20633 on June 15, 2008, 1:21 am
Please log in for more thread options > Or maybe I wired the run capacitor the wrong way?
wrong track, no, the motor is overloaded in any case and by a lot.
At higher pressure, it is 36-38 amps with 25 amps rating.
i
> i
>
>> Moved it into the garage since it is now on casters.
>>
>> I added a pressure gauge and pumped the tank to 21 PSI. (just trying
>> to stay safe). I will see how it will look in the morning. I went
>> around the compressor and did not hear any hissing or bubbling noises.
>>
>> The drain was open, I had to close it, which I consider to be a good
>> sign.
>>
>> But here's something else. From just a few minutes of running, the
>> motor got rather hot, despite having a proper fan installed in the
>> back and the rear fan guard.
>>
>> I measured the AC current going to the motor. The current was 33
>> amp. The motor is rated at 25 amp.
>>
>> If the heat losses are R*I^2, then the motor was producing (33/25)^2 =
>> 1.74 times the heat that it was designed for, and turned more slowly
>> so it could not move as much air as it was designed to. That's why it
>> got so hot.
>>
>> This leads me to believe that Wayne was right (as usual) and this is a
>> 7.5 HP pump and not a 5 HP pump. It definitely needs a 7.5 HP motor,
>> or a slow 5 HP motor.
>>
>> So, while nothing is really wrong with the components that were put
>> together by some previous owner, the "stuff" does not fit together
>> correctly. It was very fortunate that that guy could not finish the
>> wiring job and did not burn the motor out trying to run this pump.
>>
>
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/
|
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>
> I added a pressure gauge and pumped the tank to 21 PSI. (just trying
> to stay safe). I will see how it will look in the morning. I went
> around the compressor and did not hear any hissing or bubbling noises.
>
> The drain was open, I had to close it, which I consider to be a good
> sign.
>
> But here's something else. From just a few minutes of running, the
> motor got rather hot, despite having a proper fan installed in the
> back and the rear fan guard.
>
> I measured the AC current going to the motor. The current was 33
> amp. The motor is rated at 25 amp.
>
> If the heat losses are R*I^2, then the motor was producing (33/25)^2 =
> 1.74 times the heat that it was designed for, and turned more slowly
> so it could not move as much air as it was designed to. That's why it
> got so hot.
>
> This leads me to believe that Wayne was right (as usual) and this is a
> 7.5 HP pump and not a 5 HP pump. It definitely needs a 7.5 HP motor,
> or a slow 5 HP motor.
>
> So, while nothing is really wrong with the components that were put
> together by some previous owner, the "stuff" does not fit together
> correctly. It was very fortunate that that guy could not finish the
> wiring job and did not burn the motor out trying to run this pump.
>