|
Posted by DazFNQ on June 23, 2008, 5:44 am
Please log in for more thread options
Hi All
Im looking into converting my pedestal drill (PD) like this one
http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=D140#
into a pedestal drill and a modified milling machine by using
http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=D140#
this compound table, albeit that the PD has 2 thou runout at the bottom of
the taper shaft.
Any comments?
Anyone from downunder using the above compound table from Hare & Forbes, if
so whats the quality like?
DazFNQ
|
|
Posted by Den on June 23, 2008, 7:05 am
Please log in for more thread options
> Hi All
>
> Im looking into converting my pedestal drill (PD) like this one
>
> http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=D140#
>
> into a pedestal drill and a modified milling machine by using
>
> http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=D140#
>
> this compound table, albeit that the PD has 2 thou runout at the bottom of
> the taper shaft.
>
> Any comments?
>
> Anyone from downunder using the above compound table from Hare & Forbes,
> if so whats the quality like?
>
> DazFNQ
>
I've tried the same thing but with a heavier drill press. Its barely
acceptable for light plastic or wood. I know of a guy who uses a much
sturdier xy table with a heavy gear head drill press, its ok for plastic
jobs but not much more. Depending on your expectations it might work for you
but it didn't for me. :(
|
|
Posted by Stealth Pilot on June 23, 2008, 7:31 am
Please log in for more thread options On Mon, 23 Jun 2008 19:44:56 +1000, "DazFNQ"
>Hi All
>
>Im looking into converting my pedestal drill (PD) like this one
>
>http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=D140#
>
>into a pedestal drill and a modified milling machine by using
>
>http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=D140#
>
>this compound table, albeit that the PD has 2 thou runout at the bottom of
>the taper shaft.
>
>Any comments?
>
>Anyone from downunder using the above compound table from Hare & Forbes, if
>so whats the quality like?
>
>DazFNQ
>
they are chinese manufacture. they do work but are bloody awful.
you'd be better off keeping the drill as a drill and buying a small
mill.
check the rest of the hare and forbes cattledog.
my son has the little HM10 and it seems a nice piece of kit for the
size. one of my mates has one for making model aircraft engines.
I have the HM50 and I'm quite happy with it.
Stealth Pilot
|
|
Posted by Trevor Jones on June 23, 2008, 6:21 pm
Please log in for more thread options Stealth Pilot wrote:
> you'd be better off keeping the drill as a drill and buying a small
> mill.
Better yet, dump the cheesy drill, and buy a Chinese mill drill.
They make a really fairly decent drill, better than an average working
guy can find, in general these days, and they already have a drawbar, to
keep the chuck from coming adrift at speed.
Much to be said for that last bit!
Cheers
Trevor Jones
|
|
Posted by spaco on June 23, 2008, 8:33 am
Please log in for more thread options I don't think the spindle of any drill press like this is up to the task
of milling. It's not designed for side loads. And I think you'll have
a tough time keeping the #2MT tooling in place. Next issue is using a
drill chuck to hold an end mill. The end mill tends to pull down and
out of the chuck, no matter how hard you tighten it.
I have used an old Craftsman drill press with an X-Y table for years
and wouldn't be without it. It's on the table 99% of the time. In
fact, I even have a simple wooden table, 8" X 10", glued to a piece of 2
X 6 that I clamp into the vise that's on that X -Y table when I need a
flat surface. That way I don't have to take the X -Y table off very
often and the wooden "table" can be considered sacrificial. ----So, I'm
not against the X -Y table, I just don't think you'll be happy with
using that tool for milling.
Many, many years ago I had a project where I had to mill a 1/8" slot
in steel and I got away with it. But I had to take tiny cuts. This
drill press, by the way has a threaded collar on the chuck that pulls
the taper up into the spindle so it can't come loose.
from the upper side of the earth,
Pete Stanaitis
---------------------------------------------------
DazFNQ wrote:
> Hi All
>
> Im looking into converting my pedestal drill (PD) like this one
>
> http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=D140#
>
> into a pedestal drill and a modified milling machine by using
>
> http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=D140#
>
> this compound table, albeit that the PD has 2 thou runout at the bottom of
> the taper shaft.
>
> Any comments?
>
> Anyone from downunder using the above compound table from Hare & Forbes, if
> so whats the quality like?
>
> DazFNQ
>
>
|
| Similar Threads | Posted | | Looking for small cnc mill/drill | January 16, 2007, 3:24 pm |
| Mill/drill Z readout | April 7, 2007, 3:32 pm |
| Mill Drill readout | April 7, 2007, 9:32 pm |
| Need help in identifing mill/drill | December 15, 2008, 6:22 am |
| Grinder pedestal | May 2, 2006, 12:16 pm |
| mill a slot with a hand drill | May 6, 2007, 7:07 pm |
| DRO for square column mill drill | May 21, 2007, 9:49 pm |
| Grizzly G1006-1007 Mill Drill Anyone? | May 29, 2007, 4:46 pm |
| Looks like Grizzly is winner for drill/mill model | March 28, 2006, 12:01 pm |
| Older Rong-Fu Mill Drill Question | November 6, 2008, 2:27 pm |
|
|
>
> Im looking into converting my pedestal drill (PD) like this one
>
> http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=D140#
>
> into a pedestal drill and a modified milling machine by using
>
> http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=D140#
>
> this compound table, albeit that the PD has 2 thou runout at the bottom of
> the taper shaft.
>
> Any comments?
>
> Anyone from downunder using the above compound table from Hare & Forbes,
> if so whats the quality like?
>
> DazFNQ
>