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Posted by Tom Quackenbush on July 9, 2008, 9:00 pm
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Jim Wilkins wrote:
> Tom Quackenbush wrote:
>> My "lat" can of cutiing oil wandered off, so I went to the local
>> Borg to buy some more. All that they had was pints of "dark" thread
>> cuttiing oil (Oatey 30203), so I bought that.
<snip>
>
>It seems to be a little better than Crown cutting oil from MSC but not
>nearly as good as the fancy tapping fluids.
Thanks, Jim. Sounsds like it's good enough for the likes of me. I'll
keep an eye peeled for the fancy stuff, though.
R,
Tom Q.
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Posted by on July 6, 2008, 2:52 pm
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> =A0 My "lat" can of cutiing oil wandered off, so I went to the local
> Borg to buy some more. All that they had was pints of "dark" thread
> cuttiing oil (Oatey 30203), so I bought that.
>
> =A0 I'll be using it for cutting or drillling =A0iron/steel.
>
> =A0 What's the difference? For Harry homeowner, does it matter?
>
> R,
> Tom Q.l
The dark stuff has more sulfur in it, eases cutting threads on steel/
iron pipe with pipe dies. Also reacts with aluminum, so don't use it
for cutting that. A good choice for dabbing on a steel workpiece.
Expensive and messy for coolant setups, have seen it used, though.
When the workpiece gets hot, it smokes, other inhabitants may not
appreciate it. I use it all the time for drilling and tapping harder
steels, like guns.
Usually the clear cutting oils rely more on chlorine, kind of does the
same job, not as effective, in my opinion, for hand uses on hard
steels. This stuff also reacts with aluminum, usually more
vigorously.
Lard oil is another good choice, should you find an old-timey hardware
store that carries it. Can be found in some of the "green" mixes,
it's biodegradeable.
Stan
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Posted by Tom Quackenbush on July 9, 2008, 9:12 pm
Please log in for more thread options Stan wrote wrote:
>The dark stuff has more sulfur in it, eases cutting threads on steel/
>iron pipe with pipe dies. Also reacts with aluminum, so don't use it
>for cutting that. A good choice for dabbing on a steel workpiece.
>Expensive and messy for coolant setups, have seen it used, though.
>When the workpiece gets hot, it smokes, other inhabitants may not
>appreciate it. I use it all the time for drilling and tapping harder
>steels, like guns.
>
>Usually the clear cutting oils rely more on chlorine, kind of does the
>same job, not as effective, in my opinion, for hand uses on hard
>steels. This stuff also reacts with aluminum, usually more
>vigorously.
>
>Lard oil is another good choice, should you find an old-timey hardware
>store that carries it. Can be found in some of the "green" mixes,
>it's biodegradeable.
Thanks, Stan. It sounds like what I've got should be fine for the
use I'll put it to.
Screw the other inhabitants. <g> There's plenty for the cat & dog to
do outdoors.
I generally use kerosene (sometimes mineral spirits or WD-40) for
aluminum anyway, but I appreciate the warning.
R,
Tom Q.
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Posted by Jim Wilkins on July 9, 2008, 6:55 pm
Please log in for more thread options > ...I have never found a source for real lard oil so I have no basis for c=
omparison. =A0
Grocery store, ethnic food shelves.
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