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Posted by schizobeck on March 28, 2008, 11:18 am
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> Title say it all.
>
> I'm past the point that I can chomp parts with a chop saw and grind/file
> a smooth edge.
>
> Some of these parts have interior curves that make that impossible to
> any real degree. =A0Even with my foolish stubborn streak!
>
> So?
>
> Would someone recommend a small and relatively inexpensive plasma cutter
> that can handle up to 1/8" stainless?
>
> Preferably 110 VAC if that's possible.
>
> Richard
> --
> (remove the X to email)
>
> Now just why the HELL do I have to press 1 for English?
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0John Wayne
Can't tell you a thing about plasma cutters, but in case that plan
goes awry, I think generally with a lot of stainless projects you can
move past trying to get a perfectly smooth/clean edge by just crimping
a metal, rubber or other material "ridge" over the rough edges. It's
cheaper than buying major tools that you might not need again and you
might really find something that adds to a quality look in your
finished project.
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Posted by cavelamb himself on March 28, 2008, 2:26 pm
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schizobeck wrote:
>
>>Title say it all.
>>
>>I'm past the point that I can chomp parts with a chop saw and grind/file
>>a smooth edge.
>>
>>Some of these parts have interior curves that make that impossible to
>>any real degree. Even with my foolish stubborn streak!
>>
>>So?
>>
>>Would someone recommend a small and relatively inexpensive plasma cutter
>>that can handle up to 1/8" stainless?
>>
>>Preferably 110 VAC if that's possible.
>>
>>Richard
>>--
>>(remove the X to email)
>>
>>Now just why the HELL do I have to press 1 for English?
>> John Wayne
>
>
> Can't tell you a thing about plasma cutters, but in case that plan
> goes awry, I think generally with a lot of stainless projects you can
> move past trying to get a perfectly smooth/clean edge by just crimping
> a metal, rubber or other material "ridge" over the rough edges. It's
> cheaper than buying major tools that you might not need again and you
> might really find something that adds to a quality look in your
> finished project.
I certaintly appreciate the thought because I too am leary of spending a
lot of money on expensive tools that may not pay their way.
But not in this case.
These are parts for yacht type sail boats.
Appearance is important.
As well as smoothing the edges of stress risers.
I've just gone as far as I can with a chop saw and hand tools.
Now it's time to get serious about this stuff.
Question is - what will it cost verses what will it do for me.
Richard
--
(remove the X to email)
Now just why the HELL do I have to press 1 for English?
John Wayne
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Posted by Ries on March 28, 2008, 1:41 pm
Please log in for more thread options Try it before you buy it.
I know, its easier to sit in your tighty whitey's and type at a
computer, but most real welding supply stores will actually let you
try out a plasma cutter.
And with stainless, its a good idea to see what you will get.
Because of the alloy content of stainless, its a lot harder to get a
perfect, slag free edge on it with an off the rack plasma cutter.
The machine cuts stainless just fine- but it leaves a dark gray
oxidized slag on the back that is sometimes very hard to grind off.
For simple shapes, notches, and large radius curves, this is not a big
problem- you hit it with a grinder, and then touch it up with a flap
disc of alumina zirconia, and it cleans up. But it does take some time
to do this.
However, if you are doing complicated shapes, with multiple interior
cutouts, expect to do some time with a die grinder, with expensive
carbide burrs.
In industry, they get around this by using Hi-Definition Plaama units
(these start at $10,000) and then, instead of shop compressed air,
they use an inert gas like argon, or at least a no oxygen gas like
nitrogen. Expensive, in other words.
Or, they use a laser or waterjet. Again, intial setup costs of
$100,000 to a quarter million.
So given your budget, its probably gonna be hand held plasma.
I would not buy anything but Hypertherm or Plasma Dynamics.
But like I said, go to a welding supply store with your own sample
material in hand, and cut a few pieces, and see for yourself what you
get, and how hard it is to clean it up.
Might be, you decide instead to scour ebay til you find a killer deal
on a big 36" Do-all bandsaw.
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Posted by Ries on March 28, 2008, 1:43 pm
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Whoops- I meant THERMAL DYNAMICS.
HYPERTHERM, OR THERMAL DYNAMICS.
these are the two companies that make the plasma cutters that every
serious industrial shop uses.
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Posted by cavelamb himself on March 28, 2008, 2:45 pm
Please log in for more thread options Ries wrote:
> Whoops- I meant THERMAL DYNAMICS.
>
> HYPERTHERM, OR THERMAL DYNAMICS.
>
> these are the two companies that make the plasma cutters that every
> serious industrial shop uses.
>
>
Thanks Rees.
I'll pull on my jeans and go visit a real welding supply store.
And take a couple of pieces of metal with me to carve on.
In the end, this might actually be something that has to be shopped out
rather than done in house (ok, in garage)
Richard
--
(remove the X to email)
Now just why the HELL do I have to press 1 for English?
John Wayne
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>
> I'm past the point that I can chomp parts with a chop saw and grind/file
> a smooth edge.
>
> Some of these parts have interior curves that make that impossible to
> any real degree. =A0Even with my foolish stubborn streak!
>
> So?
>
> Would someone recommend a small and relatively inexpensive plasma cutter
> that can handle up to 1/8" stainless?
>
> Preferably 110 VAC if that's possible.
>
> Richard
> --
> (remove the X to email)
>
> Now just why the HELL do I have to press 1 for English?
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =