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Posted by Michael Koblic on September 3, 2008, 12:20 am
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I found myself in need to cut 1/2" mild steel plate today. The cut was about
4-3/4".
I tried first with my only reciprocating saw which is 18V cordless and a
Lenox 18 tpi blade (the only one I had on hand). The cut progressed very
slowly. I thought I would try my Bosch 1590 jig-saw not expecting much
(Bosch do not recommend use beyond 3/8") and I was not disappointed: It was
even worse. In the end I did most of the cut using a hacksaw with 18 tpi
blade (A DeWalt past its prime). This in fact was the fastest way and also
the cleanest (except for the mess that the lubricating wax makes :-).
I specifically avoided using a 4-1/2" cut-off wheel in my grinder: I find
those things very messy and hard to control. This policy was vindicated when
I tried to cut off a couple of the corners of the said plate. It was not
that fast either.
Oddly enough I find using the hacksaw less fatiguing than any of the other
tools: something about the better posture and rhythmic dynamic movement as
opposed to having to hold a vibrating tool still.
Although I do not expect to have to cut this sort of material in future very
often it got me thinking: Say one needed an even longer cut - 6" to 8". What
would be a good low cost (<$200) alternative:
1) A corded recip saw with a 14 tpi blade - something like Milwaukee 6563-21
for $200
2) A portable band saw - no name off EBay for $110 including shipping. This
will cut only 4-1/2 by 4-1/2" so presumably the cut would have to be done
from two directions.
3) Put a abrasive disk in a circular saw with a decent motor and an all
metal construction (I could not do that today with my cordless as the guards
are plastic) - all for less than $100.
Thanks,
--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC
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Posted by Grant Erwin on September 3, 2008, 1:30 am
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Michael Koblic wrote:
> I found myself in need to cut 1/2" mild steel plate today. The cut was about
> 4-3/4".
> I tried first with my only reciprocating saw which is 18V cordless and a
> Lenox 18 tpi blade (the only one I had on hand). The cut progressed very
> slowly. I thought I would try my Bosch 1590 jig-saw not expecting much
> (Bosch do not recommend use beyond 3/8") and I was not disappointed: It was
> even worse. In the end I did most of the cut using a hacksaw with 18 tpi
> blade (A DeWalt past its prime). This in fact was the fastest way and also
> the cleanest (except for the mess that the lubricating wax makes :-).
>
> I specifically avoided using a 4-1/2" cut-off wheel in my grinder: I find
> those things very messy and hard to control. This policy was vindicated when
> I tried to cut off a couple of the corners of the said plate. It was not
> that fast either.
>
> Oddly enough I find using the hacksaw less fatiguing than any of the other
> tools: something about the better posture and rhythmic dynamic movement as
> opposed to having to hold a vibrating tool still.
>
> Although I do not expect to have to cut this sort of material in future very
> often it got me thinking: Say one needed an even longer cut - 6" to 8". What
> would be a good low cost (<$200) alternative:
> 1) A corded recip saw with a 14 tpi blade - something like Milwaukee 6563-21
> for $200
> 2) A portable band saw - no name off EBay for $110 including shipping. This
> will cut only 4-1/2 by 4-1/2" so presumably the cut would have to be done
> from two directions.
> 3) Put a abrasive disk in a circular saw with a decent motor and an all
> metal construction (I could not do that today with my cordless as the guards
> are plastic) - all for less than $100.
>
> Thanks,
>
A worm drive 7-1/4" saw with a Tenryu or Matsushita blade will cut through
plate like butter. Google this group on tenryu and you will see ..
Grant
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Posted by Bob La Londe on September 4, 2008, 11:04 am
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> Michael Koblic wrote:
>> 3) Put a abrasive disk in a circular saw with a decent motor and an all
>> metal construction (I could not do that today with my cordless as the
>> guards are plastic) - all for less than $100.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>
> A worm drive 7-1/4" saw with a Tenryu or Matsushita blade will cut through
> plate like butter. Google this group on tenryu and you will see ..
Interesting. I have been using an fiber re-enforced abrasive blade in my
14" chop saw. They seem to last about the best of anything and cut ok. How
would one of these blades compare for speed? Is the durability enough to
make up for the cost. I mean would they last as long as 5 fiber abrasive
disks? 10? 20?
Do they need to be cooled with liquid? The local metal yard where I
occasionally buy a few pieces of steel has what looks like a 20" blade that
they keep cool with a white milky liquid that is recollected and filtered
below the feed table.
Bob La Londe
www.YumaBassMan.com
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Posted by Winston on September 3, 2008, 1:32 am
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Michael Koblic wrote:
> I found myself in need to cut 1/2" mild steel plate today. The cut was about
> 4-3/4".
...
For straight cuts, check out 319-4083
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=621&PMITEM=319-4083
Alternatively, you could put a ferrous metal cutting blade in
your worm drive circular saw. Note that non-worm saws don't
have the mustard for this kind of duty.
NON-optional safety gear
* Use hearing and eyeball protection! This is not a
quiet operation but it is a little cleaner than a
chop saw.
* Use gloves!
* Use long sleeves and protect yourself from high -
velocity steel swarf.
* Lubricate cut with wax
It works surprisingly fast and leaves a straight non - HAZ cut.
--Winston
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Posted by Larry Jaques on September 3, 2008, 8:25 am
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On Wed, 03 Sep 2008 05:32:49 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
>Michael Koblic wrote:
>> I found myself in need to cut 1/2" mild steel plate today. The cut was about
>> 4-3/4".
>...
>For straight cuts, check out 319-4083
>
>http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=621&PMITEM=319-4083
>
>Alternatively, you could put a ferrous metal cutting blade in
>your worm drive circular saw. Note that non-worm saws don't
>have the mustard for this kind of duty.
If you're looking for something to build timberframe homes with, a
worm drive is it. Here's a nice little beauty of a Makita, a
16-15/16" circular saw. <thud>
Tawm, take one of these to your spare warehouse, take it down by hand,
and sell the lumber!
--
The best and safest thing is to keep a balance in your life,
acknowledge the great powers around us and in us. If you can
do that, and live that way, you are really a wise man.
-- Euripides
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> 4-3/4".
> I tried first with my only reciprocating saw which is 18V cordless and a
> Lenox 18 tpi blade (the only one I had on hand). The cut progressed very
> slowly. I thought I would try my Bosch 1590 jig-saw not expecting much
> (Bosch do not recommend use beyond 3/8") and I was not disappointed: It was
> even worse. In the end I did most of the cut using a hacksaw with 18 tpi
> blade (A DeWalt past its prime). This in fact was the fastest way and also
> the cleanest (except for the mess that the lubricating wax makes :-).
>
> I specifically avoided using a 4-1/2" cut-off wheel in my grinder: I find
> those things very messy and hard to control. This policy was vindicated when
> I tried to cut off a couple of the corners of the said plate. It was not
> that fast either.
>
> Oddly enough I find using the hacksaw less fatiguing than any of the other
> tools: something about the better posture and rhythmic dynamic movement as
> opposed to having to hold a vibrating tool still.
>
> Although I do not expect to have to cut this sort of material in future very
> often it got me thinking: Say one needed an even longer cut - 6" to 8". What
> would be a good low cost (<$200) alternative:
> 1) A corded recip saw with a 14 tpi blade - something like Milwaukee 6563-21
> for $200
> 2) A portable band saw - no name off EBay for $110 including shipping. This
> will cut only 4-1/2 by 4-1/2" so presumably the cut would have to be done
> from two directions.
> 3) Put a abrasive disk in a circular saw with a decent motor and an all
> metal construction (I could not do that today with my cordless as the guards
> are plastic) - all for less than $100.
>
> Thanks,
>