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Posted by Bill Schwab on May 3, 2008, 9:38 pm
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Hello all,
I was pretty heavily slammed shortly after the lathe's arrival, so I do
not recall how much I posted about it. Just in case, a brief re-cap,
and then a question.
My Enco 12x36 lathe lives! Rigging it was not too bad, though I was
wise to be suspicious about the connection of the skid (bolted to the
lathe) and the pallet: there was none other than the straps around the
crate that was built onto the skid! I ended up starting with a floor
jack to crib the skid and then slowly cut the pallet away to make room
for my engine hoist's legs. Once it was balanced in the slings, I
decided to go for and had the (already assembled) stand under it in a
few minutes. It was late, so the next day, I raised it slightly off the
ground and used 2x4 as a pry-bar to nudge the hoist across the garage to
its current location.
There was very little grit in the headstock, though there was a stray
machine screw. After some searching, it appears to have been a lost
screw of the type used to hold some of the front trim.
I built a 220 extension cord with a 15 amp double throw breaker in a $10
box to get it running.
So far, I have turned a little Al tubing, and noted that the 3-jaw chuck
(the only one I have used so far) was not running true. It appears to
be due to the pins on the back of the chuck. It was mounted to the
spindle when the lathe was shipped, and I suspect that either two of
them was installed too short, or one was left too long. It might have
been assembled that way due to some grit inside the hole receiving the
long pin. After some cleaning, I started to get it to sit down as far
as the other two pins _after_ my reassembly.
The chuck no longer runs untrue, but that is primarily because it no
longer mounts to the spindle :( I assume that I now have all three pins
at incorrect extension, probably screwed too far into the chuck body.
Unless the Chinese part of the instructions with my 4-jaw tells how to
mount the pins, I am w/o specifications. What is the correct way
(height at which, number of turns, etc.) to mount them?
Thanks,
Bill
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Posted by Bob AZ on May 4, 2008, 2:10 am
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> Unless the Chinese part of the instructions with my 4-jaw tells how to
> mount the pins, I am w/o specifications. =EF=BF=BDWhat is the correct way
> (height at which, number of turns, etc.) to mount them?
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
Bill
The instructions go something like this.
When attaching the chuck to the spindle, the cams/tighteners should
turn about 135 degrees. At least mine do. There are some marks on the
spindle for this. If they don't turn far enough the corresponding pin
is into the chuck backing plate too far. Turn more than half a turn
the pin is not into the backing plate far enough. Adjust accordingly.
Everything does need to be clean.
I would think there are instructions on the Enco site for this.
Bob AZ
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Posted by Bob AZ on May 4, 2008, 2:22 am
Please log in for more thread options =2E
>
> Unless the Chinese part of the instructions with my 4-jaw tells how to
> mount the pins, I am w/o specifications. =EF=BF=BDWhat is the correct way
> (height at which, number of turns, etc.) to mount them?
>
> Thanks,
Bill
This should help:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php?p=3D856062
Bob AZ
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Posted by Bill Schwab on May 4, 2008, 9:23 am
Please log in for more thread options Bob,
> .
>> Unless the Chinese part of the instructions with my 4-jaw tells how to
>> mount the pins, I am w/o specifications. �What is the correct way
>> (height at which, number of turns, etc.) to mount them?
>>
>> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> This should help:
>
> http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php?p=856062
It did! When they refer to indicating "the cone," is that inside the
chuck "below" the jaws? Correct me if I am wrong, but that seems to be
overkill with a 3-jaw chuck?? It also would be unlikely to work well or
at all on the fairly rough surface that I suspect one would use. My
4-jaw chuck is behind a tool cabinet that needs to be moved to a new
home (making room for a bigger one purchased recently), and while I
think I could lift it more directly, I am going to be smarter than that
:) It would not surprise me to find a finished surface inside the 4-jaw.
That thread mentions using a torque wrench on the cams. Any takers, or
is that going too far? If you do use one, what is your target torque?
Thanks,
Bill
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Posted by Jon Elson on May 4, 2008, 1:37 pm
Please log in for more thread options Bill Schwab wrote:
>
>> This should help:
>>
>> http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php?p=856062
>
>
> It did! When they refer to indicating "the cone," is that inside the
> chuck "below" the jaws? Correct me if I am wrong, but that seems to be
> overkill with a 3-jaw chuck??
I'm not an expert on D1-anything, but I do have a Sheldon lathe
with D1-6 and several chucks, backplates, etc. for it. The
chuck (or back plate) has both a face and a taper that are BOTH
supposed to seat to the spindle face. The taper of the chuck is
a "female" taper that seats on a very short male taper on the
spindle. You need the tapers to mate closely to get repeatable
mounting of the chuck. You might check these with blue spotting
dye. You probably don't need to actually lock the cams to get
an impression on the tapers. I'd put the dye on the chuck,
because the male taper of the spindle will be easier to inspect.
Of course, you should get even transfer of the dye all around
the spindle. You can also apply dye to the face of the chuck
and see how well that seats against the spindle face. Again, it
should fit relatively well, rather than at just a few points.
You said something about indicating the rough surface of the
chuck ID. If thre is no ground taper on the back ID of the
chuck or backplate, then I really don't think it can be called a
D1 mount. It fits the machine's spindle, but it can't be
mounted repeatably. I can't imagine using such a contraption.
My Phase-II knockoff of the Buck Adjust-Tru chuck will grip any
size round with less than .001" runout. (Yes, I bought it new,
on sale, and it was a fine investment!) I took the backplate
off a wrecked real Buck chuck that came with the lathe.
D1 mounts usually have an orientation mark, where one pin is
marked to line up with one of the cams. usually there is an
extra straight line by that one cam.
If the external taper on the spindle is not true, then you
really have a problem. If it is true, and the dye indicates the
backplate is fitting well to the face and taper, than mount the
backplatew without the chuck and face it until it completely
cleans up the front of the backplate. Then try remounting the
chuck and see if it is better.
As for camlock torque, I just use the usual chuck wrench and
make it snug. I tighen them all up a little at a time, maybe
going around the spindle 3 times.
Jon
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> mount the pins, I am w/o specifications. =EF=BF=BDWhat is the correct way
> (height at which, number of turns, etc.) to mount them?
>
> Thanks,
> Bill