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Posted by Ned Simmons on May 4, 2008, 2:22 pm
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wrote:
>Bill Schwab wrote:
>>
>>> This should help:
>>>
>>> http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php?p=856062
>>
>>
>> It did! When they refer to indicating "the cone," is that inside the
>> chuck "below" the jaws? Correct me if I am wrong, but that seems to be
>> overkill with a 3-jaw chuck??
>
>You said something about indicating the rough surface of the
>chuck ID. If thre is no ground taper on the back ID of the
>chuck or backplate, then I really don't think it can be called a
>D1 mount.
The document in the link above is from Jacobs, so I think it's likely
the instructions are for mounting a Rubberflex chuck and the "cone" is
the seating surface for the collets.
--
Ned Simmons
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Posted by Bill Schwab on May 4, 2008, 3:53 pm
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Jon,
> You said something about indicating the rough surface of the chuck ID.
> If thre is no ground taper on the back ID of the chuck or backplate,
> then I really don't think it can be called a D1 mount. It fits the
> machine's spindle, but it can't be mounted repeatably. I can't imagine
> using such a contraption.
The back ID is very clean, but if I follow you, there is no way to get
to it with an indicator when the chuck is mounted on the spindle. The
surfaces that are reachable are ok, but they are far from hardened and
ground.
It seems to be running just fine now; again the problem was that the
pins were (incorrectly) pre-mounted and the 3-jaw chuck was installed on
the spindle in the crate.
> D1 mounts usually have an orientation mark, where one pin is marked to
> line up with one of the cams. usually there is an extra straight line
> by that one cam.
Thanks, I will look for that. As with my mill a while ago, it is
getting to be time for some directed light. The overhead lighting above
and behind me doesn't cut it.
Bill
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Posted by David Billington on May 4, 2008, 6:05 pm
Please log in for more thread options Jon Elson wrote:
> Bill Schwab wrote:
>>
>>> This should help:
>>>
>>> http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php?p=856062
>>
>>
>> It did! When they refer to indicating "the cone," is that inside the
>> chuck "below" the jaws? Correct me if I am wrong, but that seems to
>> be overkill with a 3-jaw chuck??
>
> I'm not an expert on D1-anything, but I do have a Sheldon lathe with
> D1-6 and several chucks, backplates, etc. for it. The chuck (or back
> plate) has both a face and a taper that are BOTH supposed to seat to
> the spindle face. The taper of the chuck is a "female" taper that
> seats on a very short male taper on the spindle. You need the tapers
> to mate closely to get repeatable mounting of the chuck. You might
> check these with blue spotting dye. You probably don't need to
> actually lock the cams to get an impression on the tapers. I'd put
> the dye on the chuck, because the male taper of the spindle will be
> easier to inspect.
> Of course, you should get even transfer of the dye all around the
> spindle. You can also apply dye to the face of the chuck and see how
> well that seats against the spindle face. Again, it should fit
> relatively well, rather than at just a few points.
>
> You said something about indicating the rough surface of the chuck
> ID. If thre is no ground taper on the back ID of the chuck or
> backplate, then I really don't think it can be called a D1 mount. It
> fits the machine's spindle, but it can't be mounted repeatably. I
> can't imagine using such a contraption.
I bought a cheap D1-4 mount and it had a turned taper instead of ground,
for what I was using it for it was fine as great accuracy was not
required. I will be wary of that supplier in future though and have
bought more expensive, not by a great amount, D1-4 mounts which have
ground location taper and face, I would buy those for anything accurate.
The cheap one also had one of the camlock pin locking screw holes
mis-drilled, re-drilled, and a thread insert to correct it.
> My Phase-II knockoff of the Buck Adjust-Tru chuck will grip any size
> round with less than .001" runout. (Yes, I bought it new, on sale,
> and it was a fine investment!) I took the backplate off a wrecked
> real Buck chuck that came with the lathe.
>
> D1 mounts usually have an orientation mark, where one pin is marked to
> line up with one of the cams. usually there is an extra straight line
> by that one cam.
>
> If the external taper on the spindle is not true, then you really have
> a problem. If it is true, and the dye indicates the backplate is
> fitting well to the face and taper, than mount the backplatew without
> the chuck and face it until it completely cleans up the front of the
> backplate. Then try remounting the chuck and see if it is better.
>
> As for camlock torque, I just use the usual chuck wrench and make it
> snug. I tighen them all up a little at a time, maybe going around the
> spindle 3 times.
>
> Jon
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Posted by Nick Mueller on May 4, 2008, 4:49 am
Please log in for more thread options Bill Schwab wrote:
> Unless the Chinese part of the instructions with my 4-jaw tells how to
> mount the pins, I am w/o specifications. What is the correct way
> (height at which, number of turns, etc.) to mount them?
The CamLock pin should have a groove near the end of the thread. screw in
until the groove is flush with the chucks back +/- one turn.
The lock on the spindle nose has to be tight within 90° to 180° of rotation.
Adjust pin on the chuck accordingly.
Nick
--
The lowcost-DRO:
<http://www.yadro.de>
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Posted by Bill Schwab on May 4, 2008, 8:57 am
Please log in for more thread options Nick,
> Bill Schwab wrote:
>
>> Unless the Chinese part of the instructions with my 4-jaw tells how to
>> mount the pins, I am w/o specifications. What is the correct way
>> (height at which, number of turns, etc.) to mount them?
>
> The CamLock pin should have a groove near the end of the thread. screw in
> until the groove is flush with the chucks back +/- one turn.
Pretty sure I got it, and at least one of them looks a little deep,
consistent with a slightly short turn on the cam. I should be able to
get it right now.
> The lock on the spindle nose has to be tight within 90° to 180° of rotation.
> Adjust pin on the chuck accordingly.
Got it.
Thanks!
Bill
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