DIY Induction heater for shrinker endmill holders?

General Metalworking - All aspects of working with metal. 

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DIY Induction heater for shrinker endmill holders? rpseguin 04-24-2008
Posted by Cliff on May 7, 2008, 5:37 am
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On Thu, 01 May 2008 20:38:24 -0700, brewertr@aol.com wrote:

>videos

Don't tell jb.
--
Cliff

Posted by Winston on May 1, 2008, 10:16 pm
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rpseguin wrote:

>
>>It'd be much faster and cheaper to weld short vertical tube sections
>>to the cooking surface of a steel frying pan. You could match the ID
>>of the tubes to the OD of your collets plus some headroom.
>>Pack Kaowool in the gaps and Bob's your uncle.
>
>
> While that may be faster to fabricate, it sounds like it would be a
> lot less efficient in heating the endmill holder quickly.
> Will the induction properly feed all the way up the tubes and then
> induction heat the endmill holder through an air gap insulation?
> Ie, while the tubes may get hot quickly, will the endmill holder get
> hot fast via induction? Or just slowly via radiation/convection/
> conduction?

Conduction / radiation was the path I was thinking of.

Perhaps that would not work at all. Who knows? :)

Maybe instead, a ceramic holder for the collet bodies to position them above
the business area of the inductor? Where did I put those demitasse cups?

>
> Looking at this image:
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Induction_Cooker.jpg
>
> I think it is worth a $100 experiment to see about reshaping the coils
> to be up close to the endmill holder.
> Take it back to the store: This thing came this way, with all the
> wires hanging out and it smelled like smoke when I opened the
> package :-)
> (just kidding, I would never do that)

:)

--Winston

Posted by spaco on April 28, 2008, 11:35 am
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Don't know how often you have to do this, but, once you know the temp
you want, choose a metal that melts at about that temp., make sure the
holder is NOT "fluxed", then dip holder into molten metal, remove from
molten metal, then insert endmill.

I don't think you'd have much luck with the unduction cooker. It
appears, from what I see, that the pot the sit that would sit on top of
it forms part of the magnetic curcuit.

Pete Stanaitis
---------------------
rpseguin wrote:

> I bought a number of BT40 Lyndex shrink fit endmill holders, but
> cannot even come close to affording the shrink fit induction heating
> system to operate them.
> I'd like to use the holders, as they are really nice and well
> balanced.
>
> Soooo.... I was thinking of buying a $100 induction cooker and taking
> it apart and reworking the coils to go around the endmill portion of
> the holder.
>
> It doesn't take a whole lot of heat to get the holder to open up
> enough to take an endmill. I did an experiment where I used an
> electric range cooktop and heated a 5/8" shrink fit endmill holder up
> and then inserted a 5/8" carbide endmill. 30 seconds later, it had
> really gripped it quite hard.
> Opinions and ideas?
>
> Anybody know if the coils in an induction cooker are flexible and can
> be reshaped easily?
>

Posted by Rick on April 28, 2008, 11:50 am
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> I bought a number of BT40 Lyndex shrink fit endmill holders, but
> cannot even come close to affording the shrink fit induction heating
> system to operate them.
> I'd like to use the holders, as they are really nice and well
> balanced.
>
> Soooo.... I was thinking of buying a $100 induction cooker and taking
> it apart and reworking the coils to go around the endmill portion of
> the holder.
>
> It doesn't take a whole lot of heat to get the holder to open up
> enough to take an endmill. I did an experiment where I used an
> electric range cooktop and heated a 5/8" shrink fit endmill holder up
> and then inserted a 5/8" carbide endmill. 30 seconds later, it had
> really gripped it quite hard.
> Opinions and ideas?
>
> Anybody know if the coils in an induction cooker are flexible and can
> be reshaped easily?
>

Tim Williams posts here once in a while, he's done a lot on home brew induction
heaters.

http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms/Elec_IndHeat1.html



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