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Posted by JonJonJon on April 17, 2006, 2:32 am
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After having to saw through a 3/4" steel plate with a hacksaw I decided
it was time to look into purchasing a cheap chinese import bandsaw from
BusyBee Tools (same as Grizzly) and would like to purchase some
adequate blades for cutting aluminium and stainless steel (if it's much
different from cutting mild steel). Any recommendations on the number
of TPI I should be looking for? Blades are cheap so I'll probably grab
a couple.
I figure a bandsaw is probably a beter choice than a cut-off saw with a
grinding wheel, especially if I want to cut some aluminium even once in
a while. Unless someone has a better solution...
I'm also wondering if acquiring this metal cutting bandsaw would let me
get rid of my wood cutting bandsaw which isn't seeing much action
anyways. Is it adviseable to cut wood on a metal cutting bandsaw or
will I end up gunking up the mechanism with saw dust? If it's do-able,
I wonder if I can fit a 1/4" blade on a metal cutting bandsaw to cut
tighter curves in wood...
Thanks for the help
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Posted by xmradio on April 17, 2006, 3:09 am
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> After having to saw through a 3/4" steel plate with a hacksaw I decided
> it was time to look into purchasing a cheap chinese import bandsaw from
> BusyBee Tools (same as Grizzly) and would like to purchase some
> adequate blades for cutting aluminium and stainless steel (if it's much
> different from cutting mild steel). Any recommendations on the number
> of TPI I should be looking for? Blades are cheap so I'll probably grab
> a couple.
>
> I figure a bandsaw is probably a beter choice than a cut-off saw with a
> grinding wheel, especially if I want to cut some aluminium even once in
> a while. Unless someone has a better solution...
>
> I'm also wondering if acquiring this metal cutting bandsaw would let me
> get rid of my wood cutting bandsaw which isn't seeing much action
> anyways. Is it adviseable to cut wood on a metal cutting bandsaw or
> will I end up gunking up the mechanism with saw dust? If it's do-able,
> I wonder if I can fit a 1/4" blade on a metal cutting bandsaw to cut
> tighter curves in wood...
>
>
> Thanks for the help
>
I have cut wood on both machines. I still keep my wood cutter, because it 3
or 5 times faster, when cutting a 4x4 or 6x6 block of wood. The metal cutter
is slower, can't use that special jagged blades, that rip the wood apart...
xman
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Posted by mlcorson on April 17, 2006, 9:25 am
Please log in for more thread options I recently aquired a portable (hand held) metal cutting band saw. I
also have a HF 4x6 horizontal band saw and use it for more precision
cuts and lengthy cuts. If you can get your bandsaw to cut metal
efficiently, you might consider a portable. Depending on what you are
cutting, there are situations where one would be a better choice over
the other. Would give you a wider range of options.
-Mike
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Posted by Rex B on April 17, 2006, 11:34 am
Please log in for more thread options JonJonJon wrote:
> After having to saw through a 3/4" steel plate with a hacksaw I decided
> it was time to look into purchasing a cheap chinese import bandsaw from
> BusyBee Tools (same as Grizzly) and would like to purchase some
> adequate blades for cutting aluminium and stainless steel (if it's much
> different from cutting mild steel). Any recommendations on the number
> of TPI I should be looking for? Blades are cheap so I'll probably grab
> a couple.
10/14 bimetal seems to be a good universal choice.
> I figure a bandsaw is probably a beter choice than a cut-off saw with a
> grinding wheel, especially if I want to cut some aluminium even once in
> a while. Unless someone has a better solution...
You will want both. A chop saw is much handier when you just need to
wack 2" off a length of iron pipe or angle iron.
> I'm also wondering if acquiring this metal cutting bandsaw would let me
> get rid of my wood cutting bandsaw which isn't seeing much action
> anyways. Is it adviseable to cut wood on a metal cutting bandsaw or
> will I end up gunking up the mechanism with saw dust? If it's do-able,
> I wonder if I can fit a 1/4" blade on a metal cutting bandsaw to cut
> tighter curves in wood...
I'd keep the wood saw. While you can cut wood with the 4x6, it's far
from ideal. The metal saw will end up with oil on it, which won't do the
wood much good. I'd say if you need to cut some blocks of super-hard
oak from a pallet, it might occasionally be good for that.
You will wonder how you ever got by without it.
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Posted by Ted Edwards on April 18, 2006, 2:05 pm
Please log in for more thread options JonJonJon wrote:
> After having to saw through a 3/4" steel plate with a hacksaw I decided
> it was time to look into purchasing a cheap chinese import bandsaw from
> BusyBee Tools (same as Grizzly) and would like to purchase some
> adequate blades for cutting aluminium and stainless steel (if it's much
> different from cutting mild steel). Any recommendations on the number
> of TPI I should be looking for? Blades are cheap so I'll probably grab
> a couple.
I have one of those type of band saws. It ranks very close to the top
of the list of most used tools. After trying some brands, number of
teeth, etc., I settled on Morse bi-metal 14tpi blades. These have stood
up well to everything from soft aluminum to car springs. I get mine
from Princess Auto in Kelowna but they are also in Langley, Coquitlam
and numerous other places across the country.
http://www.princessauto.com/PAcountry.cfm?CTRY=CAN&INF=home
> I figure a bandsaw is probably a beter choice than a cut-off saw with a
> grinding wheel, especially if I want to cut some aluminium even once in
> a while. Unless someone has a better solution...
I agree completely. BTW, many grades of aluminum tend to gum up the
blades. Some highly concentrated citrus based "cleaners" are the best
cutting fluid for aluminum. The one I'm using came from London Drugs.
> I'm also wondering if acquiring this metal cutting bandsaw would let me
> get rid of my wood cutting bandsaw which isn't seeing much action
> anyways. Is it adviseable to cut wood on a metal cutting bandsaw or
No. The speed requirements are so different as to make it impractical
IMO. I converted an old meat cutting band saw for wood work. See
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/_2000_retired_files/BANDSAW.TXT
see also the associated photos in the same directory.
> I wonder if I can fit a 1/4" blade on a metal cutting bandsaw to cut
> tighter curves in wood...
Nope. Wood blades need rubber tired wheels. I get mine made to order
by a guy in Penticton for less than I can buy them elsewhere.
Ted
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> it was time to look into purchasing a cheap chinese import bandsaw from
> BusyBee Tools (same as Grizzly) and would like to purchase some
> adequate blades for cutting aluminium and stainless steel (if it's much
> different from cutting mild steel). Any recommendations on the number
> of TPI I should be looking for? Blades are cheap so I'll probably grab
> a couple.
>
> I figure a bandsaw is probably a beter choice than a cut-off saw with a
> grinding wheel, especially if I want to cut some aluminium even once in
> a while. Unless someone has a better solution...
>
> I'm also wondering if acquiring this metal cutting bandsaw would let me
> get rid of my wood cutting bandsaw which isn't seeing much action
> anyways. Is it adviseable to cut wood on a metal cutting bandsaw or
> will I end up gunking up the mechanism with saw dust? If it's do-able,
> I wonder if I can fit a 1/4" blade on a metal cutting bandsaw to cut
> tighter curves in wood...
>
>
> Thanks for the help
>