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Posted by Doug White on February 17, 2008, 10:25 pm
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I have a technique question about milling. Lets say I'm machining a
rectangular pocket, or just an inside corner of an "L" in something. I'm
coming along one wall, using conventional milling. When I get to the
corner and touch the next wall, the end mill will want to flex sideways
and dig in a little bit into the wall I just finished. This produces a
small 'snipe' (a woodworking term, not sure if there is a metalworking
specific equivalent) which looks a little fugly. I'm not sure if using
climb milling will help or hurt. I think you just end up with a snipe
in the next wall instead of the one you just finished. I have a small
Clausing mill, which isn't the most rigid thing on the planet, and
probably makes matters worse. I need to do something in stainless, and
cosmetics are important. The stainless makes taking light cuts
difficult, and the cosmetic issue means I really don't want a divot in
the corner.
Any suggestions or tricks?
Thanks!
Doug White
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Posted by dan on February 17, 2008, 11:56 pm
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What's that Lassie? You say that Doug White fell down the old
rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue
by Mon, 18 Feb 2008 03:25:57 GMT:
>I have a technique question about milling. Lets say I'm machining a
>rectangular pocket, or just an inside corner of an "L" in something. I'm
>coming along one wall, using conventional milling. When I get to the
>corner and touch the next wall, the end mill will want to flex sideways
>and dig in a little bit into the wall I just finished. This produces a
>small 'snipe' (a woodworking term, not sure if there is a metalworking
>specific equivalent) which looks a little fugly.
If you take a light cut this won't happen as much.
Rough out the shape(leaving a 'snipe'), then go back and finish cut
(to remove the 'snipe' from the first pass).
Dan
--
Dan
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Posted by Jerry Foster on February 18, 2008, 12:01 am
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> I have a technique question about milling. Lets say I'm machining a
> rectangular pocket, or just an inside corner of an "L" in something. I'm
> coming along one wall, using conventional milling. When I get to the
> corner and touch the next wall, the end mill will want to flex sideways
> and dig in a little bit into the wall I just finished. This produces a
> small 'snipe' (a woodworking term, not sure if there is a metalworking
> specific equivalent) which looks a little fugly. I'm not sure if using
> climb milling will help or hurt. I think you just end up with a snipe
> in the next wall instead of the one you just finished. I have a small
> Clausing mill, which isn't the most rigid thing on the planet, and
> probably makes matters worse. I need to do something in stainless, and
> cosmetics are important. The stainless makes taking light cuts
> difficult, and the cosmetic issue means I really don't want a divot in
> the corner.
>
> Any suggestions or tricks?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Doug White
You can minimize the problem by "sneaking up" on the final dimensions. Cut
a little under (maybe 0.010 or so) and then take a final cut to take that
last ten thou... Or, as an old machine shop instructor put it, "On the last
cut, make Brillo..."
Jerry
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Posted by Mark Rand on February 18, 2008, 8:11 am
Please log in for more thread options On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 03:25:57 GMT, gwhite@alum.mit.edu (Doug White) wrote:
>
>Any suggestions or tricks?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Doug White
Use a slot drill (two flute centre cutting cutter) if you really must avoid
the digging in. It will protect you because the front flute will be clear of
the cut before the back flute is close enough to risk digging in.
Mark Rand
RTFM
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Posted by Doug White on February 18, 2008, 10:28 am
Please log in for more thread options Keywords:
>On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 03:25:57 GMT, gwhite@alum.mit.edu (Doug White) wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Any suggestions or tricks?
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>Doug White
>
>
>Use a slot drill (two flute centre cutting cutter) if you really must avoid
>the digging in. It will protect you because the front flute will be clear of
>the cut before the back flute is close enough to risk digging in.
That's a good idea. I don't have many two flute end mills, but it's
something I should invest in.
One question: If the idea is to make sure it's only making contact on
one edge at a time, should I use a straight flute end mill? I don't have
to worry about lifting chips out of a pocket for my immediate problem,
and it seems to me that a spiral flute end mill would defeat the
advantage of two flutes for this operation.
Thanks!
Doug White
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>rectangular pocket, or just an inside corner of an "L" in something. I'm
>coming along one wall, using conventional milling. When I get to the
>corner and touch the next wall, the end mill will want to flex sideways
>and dig in a little bit into the wall I just finished. This produces a
>small 'snipe' (a woodworking term, not sure if there is a metalworking
>specific equivalent) which looks a little fugly.