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Posted by Karl Townsend on March 1, 2009, 3:04 pm
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My 8N ford tractor has a loud clatter...
I found the cause, the exhaust gasket has blown out in a small spot. The
metal in the block is slightly burned away. ( a couple years ago, I put a
new manifold on so its in good shape here) Its a flat head engine so the
ports are in the block not on the heads. And to make matters even worse the
block on a tractor is the frame support also. No way can I take the thing
apart enough to re-machine this surface.
So, do they make some sort of gasket goo to add to the manifold gaskets that
will correct this problem?
Karl
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Posted by Bill Noble on March 1, 2009, 3:18 pm
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> My 8N ford tractor has a loud clatter...
>
> I found the cause, the exhaust gasket has blown out in a small spot. The
> metal in the block is slightly burned away. ( a couple years ago, I put a
> new manifold on so its in good shape here) Its a flat head engine so the
> ports are in the block not on the heads. And to make matters even worse
> the block on a tractor is the frame support also. No way can I take the
> thing apart enough to re-machine this surface.
>
> So, do they make some sort of gasket goo to add to the manifold gaskets
> that will correct this problem?
>
> Karl
>
>
how "slightly" is "slightly burned away" - on my L head cars, erosion of the
block in the area of the manifold is common, but a proper gasket seems to do
the trick - it's quite possible that you didn't torque the manifold
correctly when you put the new one on. Note that some bolt holes are
enlongated to accommodate expansion (at least on cars), and that
overtorquing causes troubles as does lack of proper washers and hardware.
I've had a cracked manifold (on a 51 dodge) welded successfully - nickle
rod - I would expect that a good welder could build up some material if you
needed it, and then some work with a file could bring it back down to level
enough for a gasket to seal. There are also some high temperature ceramic
fillers.
If your tractor is running right, the manifold isn't "that hot" - but if the
timing is off, it can get really hot - I made a mistake on setting one of my
cars and the manifold ended up red-orange before I shut it off to figure out
what I had done wrong.
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Posted by Karl Townsend on March 1, 2009, 3:47 pm
Please log in for more thread options ...
> how "slightly" is "slightly burned away" - on my L head cars, erosion of
> the block in the area of the manifold is common, but a proper gasket seems
> to do
Its all pitted, I'd guess .020 deep at the worse spot, most of it much less.
About a one inch wide area.
> the trick - it's quite possible that you didn't torque the manifold
> correctly when you put the new one on. Note that some bolt holes are
> enlongated to accommodate expansion (at least on cars), and that
> overtorquing causes troubles as does lack of proper washers and hardware.
> I've had a cracked manifold (on a 51 dodge) welded successfully - nickle
> rod - I would expect that a good welder could build up some material if
> you needed it, and then some work with a file could bring it back down to
> level enough for a gasket to seal. There are also some high temperature
> ceramic fillers.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/115/3347/=tewak
OK I went to mcmaster.com On page 3347 they list all sorts of repair
materials for high temperature. I guess I'll order high temp repair putty
part number 7356A33 unless somebody has a better idea.
Karl
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Posted by spaco on March 1, 2009, 5:09 pm
Please log in for more thread options I'm sure we'd like to hear how it turns out.
---won't you miss the "throaty roar"?
Pete Stanaitis
---------------
Karl Townsend wrote:
> ...
>
>>how "slightly" is "slightly burned away" - on my L head cars, erosion of
>>the block in the area of the manifold is common, but a proper gasket seems
>>to do
>
>
> Its all pitted, I'd guess .020 deep at the worse spot, most of it much less.
> About a one inch wide area.
>
>
>>the trick - it's quite possible that you didn't torque the manifold
>>correctly when you put the new one on. Note that some bolt holes are
>>enlongated to accommodate expansion (at least on cars), and that
>>overtorquing causes troubles as does lack of proper washers and hardware.
>>I've had a cracked manifold (on a 51 dodge) welded successfully - nickle
>>rod - I would expect that a good welder could build up some material if
>>you needed it, and then some work with a file could bring it back down to
>>level enough for a gasket to seal. There are also some high temperature
>>ceramic fillers.
>
>
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/115/3347/=tewak
>
> OK I went to mcmaster.com On page 3347 they list all sorts of repair
> materials for high temperature. I guess I'll order high temp repair putty
> part number 7356A33 unless somebody has a better idea.
>
> Karl
>
>
>
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Posted by Larry Jaques on March 1, 2009, 6:12 pm
Please log in for more thread options On Sun, 1 Mar 2009 14:47:07 -0600, the infamous "Karl Townsend"
>...
>> how "slightly" is "slightly burned away" - on my L head cars, erosion of
>> the block in the area of the manifold is common, but a proper gasket seems
>> to do
>
>Its all pitted, I'd guess .020 deep at the worse spot, most of it much less.
>About a one inch wide area.
>
>> the trick - it's quite possible that you didn't torque the manifold
>> correctly when you put the new one on. Note that some bolt holes are
>> enlongated to accommodate expansion (at least on cars), and that
>> overtorquing causes troubles as does lack of proper washers and hardware.
>> I've had a cracked manifold (on a 51 dodge) welded successfully - nickle
>> rod - I would expect that a good welder could build up some material if
>> you needed it, and then some work with a file could bring it back down to
>> level enough for a gasket to seal. There are also some high temperature
>> ceramic fillers.
>
>http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/115/3347/=tewak
>
>OK I went to mcmaster.com On page 3347 they list all sorts of repair
>materials for high temperature. I guess I'll order high temp repair putty
>part number 7356A33 unless somebody has a better idea.
Looks like a winner, and much better than that crap J.C. Whitney had
four decades ago. <g>
--
"Not always right, but never uncertain." --Heinlein
-=-=-
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>
> I found the cause, the exhaust gasket has blown out in a small spot. The
> metal in the block is slightly burned away. ( a couple years ago, I put a
> new manifold on so its in good shape here) Its a flat head engine so the
> ports are in the block not on the heads. And to make matters even worse
> the block on a tractor is the frame support also. No way can I take the
> thing apart enough to re-machine this surface.
>
> So, do they make some sort of gasket goo to add to the manifold gaskets
> that will correct this problem?
>
> Karl
>
>