FA: Dumore Tool Post Grinder Inserts, K.O. Lee Index Disc and other metalworking items on Ebay

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FA: Dumore Tool Post Grinder Inserts, K.O. Lee Index Disc and other metalworking items on Ebay craftsman_ron 04-03-2006
Posted by DoN. Nichols on April 13, 2006, 2:02 am
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>

        [ ... ]

> > I believe that it will do for the task.
> >
> > Thank you for this.
>
> Quite Welcome :)

        [ ... ]

> > And also on page 2 is the all upper case:
> >
> > "WARNING: DO NOT EXCEED WHEEL SPEED RECOMMENDATIONS."
> >
> > (But no exclamation point at the end. :-)
> >
> > The manual is obviously older than my grinder, because of the
> > lack of 3-pin power connectors. But it is obviously for the same
> > grinder, as the model number (first four digits of the serial number)
> > matches.
>
> Kinda fun looking at these old manuals .. especially the price list :-)

        Yep! I wish that we could still get things at those prices. :-)

        [ ... ]

> > The added info in the .txt file will help as well. I am glad to
> > get confirmation that the spindle thread was originally 1/4-32.
> >
> > Was there only the one "Chuck assembly" with a 1/8" bore? That
> > would appear to be the case, based on the parts list and drawing.
>
> Only 1 chuck came with mine. There is a hombrew thing in there for holding
> a stone but it has no threads and the stone is glued to the brass.

        O.K. The manual only shows the one chuck.

        I am now most of the way through making the chuck for mine. I
need to make a D-reamer to cut the taper inside the nut, and then I need
to slot the collet, and cut the wrench flats on both. I had to
single-point cut the threads in the nut -- I wish that I had known to
order a 5/16-32 tap while I was ordering the 1/4-32. :-)

        And -- I have verified that the arbor nut (and the pulley nuts)
on mine are all 7/16" across flats.

        Also -- I have verified that the height range will bring it up
to center height with no problems on my Clausing -- and that I need to
make a T-nut to fit the Clasuing, as the one which is there is too tiny
and has to be inserted rotated to bite at all.

> > So -- the largest wheel really was a 2" one. I've got some
> > larger ones which I have adapted to the spindle which are still well
> > within their speed rating -- but perhaps the motor does not have the
> > horsepower to drive the larger wheels. I guess that I'll find out.
>
> Mine drives a 2.5" wheel ok.

        I've got a pair of wheels (which did not come with it) which are
nearly 3" diameter, and which finally defined the ID of the guard.

> > The design of the diamond holder is different than I had
> > expected -- but makes sense if you have to re-dress the wheel part-way
> > through the task.
> >
> > I don't see the diamond holder listed in the parts list, nor in
> > the drawing.
>
> Mine dosen't have the wheel dresser either but I intend to make one.

        As do I -- though I may try some other ideas for initial
dressing (mount in the collet before the workpiece goes in, not on the
workpiece), and save the shape shown in the manual for dressing in the
middle of a project.

        Again, thanks,
                DoN.


        
--
        (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Posted by Joseph Gwinn on April 10, 2006, 10:05 am
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dnichols@d-and-d.com (DoN. Nichols) wrote:

> > dnichols@d-and-d.com (DoN. Nichols) wrote:
> >
> > > > dnichols@d-and-d.com (DoN. Nichols) wrote:
>
>         [ ... ]
>
> >
> > >         FWIW -- I can testify that silicone oil (supposedly
> > > non-flammable) *will* ignite and burn if the vapors from a heated beaker
> > > of it curl around into the still-hot elements of the hotplate on which
> > > the beaker is sitting. (There was some dry ice in the beaker to hasten
> > > it back to the starting point of a temperature coefficient run.) And,
> > > when that vapor burns, the result is very fine sand all over the place.
> > > :-)
> >
> > I'll have to try this someday. In the backyard.
>
>         Be sure to have a CO2 fire extinguisher handy. I'm not sure
> what a hose would do for that -- possibly float and spread the burning
> silicone oil.
>
>         Note that this was a mix of two silicone oils -- one which was
> normally used for measurement at -50C, and the other which was normally
> used at +150C. The first would boil at the high temperature, and the
> second would set up into a grease at the low end, making it hard to
> equate the temperature at the thermometer with that in the device under
> test. The low-temperature oil, when it hit the bubbles from the dry ice
> in the beaker evaporated quickly, and spilled over the edge and curled
> into the heating elements.
>
>         We would have been better off letting the beaker cool down on
> its own -- but we had quite a few more devices to test -- ones returned
> from the customer, because while they met specs at -50, +50, and +150C,
> they were out of spec at some points between those temperatures.

Ahh. I have a hotplate with totally enclosed heaters, so no drama is
likely.