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Posted by Bruce L. Bergman on April 29, 2008, 2:44 pm
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On Tue, 29 Apr 2008 10:29:30 -0700 (PDT), stryped
>I think someone was on to something when they said some of the
>hardware may not be right. The "latches" that attach each section to
>the next, I noticed the manual called number 1 hinge number 2 hinge
>etc. But to me the picture looked no different in terms of number 2 vs
>number 3.
It's not much of a difference - maybe 1/8" - 3/16" between adjacent
hinges, that's why they number them so they end up in the right order.
The track is maybe 3/4" to 1" further out from the door jamb at the
top than the bottom - the instructions should have that number. As
the door comes down, it also goes out a bit, and about a foot from the
bottom should start contacting the seals at the sides.
There's a method to this madness, which is where reading and
understanding the instructions does come in handy.
The only reason you don't see the pros standing there reading the
instruction book is we've installed that particular piece of gear a
few (hundred) times - but when I get a new model I STILL look through
the instruction book for any new surprises they may have added.
--<< Bruce >>--
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Posted by Lew Hartswick on April 29, 2008, 5:47 pm
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stryped wrote:
>
> Forgive my ignorance, but what are you calling "door stops"?
>
> This building is a metal framed building by the way. I am doing the
> best I can. I may not have wound the spring tightly enough. I also
> know that one pulley is about an inch lower than the other. And for
> osme reason the door looks a little cockeyed at the fully up position
> but when I measure it it is ok.
It would help if you were somewhere near a person that has doen it.
I installed one for son-in-law a few years ago. I'm in Albuquerque,
are you anywhere close?
...lew...
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Posted by Bruce L. Bergman on April 29, 2008, 2:01 pm
Please log in for more thread options On Tue, 29 Apr 2008 05:29:29 -0700 (PDT), stryped
>I received a single 7x9 clopay garage door from someone replacing
>their door. It has all the hardware and even the installation
>instructions. I have been for a week trying to “retrofit” it to my
>12x16 shed.
>
>I have the track installed and can manually move it up or down but
>have tried and tried and cant get the torsion spring to work in
>helping with raising and lowering the door. I have done it countless
>times all that ends up happening is the wire on the pulleys on both
>ends end up “birdnesting” and going everywhere. Yesterday it actually
>helped bull it up before it finally birdnested.
>
>What can I do? Would having one pulley slightly higher than the other
>cause this problem? I have had to do the best job I could with the
>limited room I have.
>
>Another thing I noticed is when I manually raise the door, the bottom
>roller seems to be in a different place on the track on one side
>verses the other. I measured the tracks on both sides though and they
>seem to be the same height.
>
>One last thing when I put it all the way up the end of the door just
>barely touched a support on my shed roof. Just enough where the door
>wants to come down rather than stay in the upright position. Is there
>something I can add or do to keep the door up?
>
>Anyway I appreciate any help as this is driving me nuts and my wife is
>tired of me spending all my time on this!
The aircraft cable isn't just winding onto a plain spool, it's
following a varying radius tracking snail groove so that the force
goes down as the door goes up and approaches the end of the run, to
equalize the assistance needed. Otherwise you'd have to fight to get
it started and then fight to slow it down at the top.
The track has to be square and level in the doorway, there can't be
any obstructions to full travel, and the spring crossbar has to be at
the right height and square to the door.
If the door gets cockeyed and the aircraft cable on one side goes
slack it will bird-nest on you every time. Same thing if the cable
drums are not in line with the pull points on the door, that track can
only handle a few degrees of misalignment before the cable derails
from the groove.
If you've got structural parts in the way at the ceiling level,
you'll have to move them. Make another brace farther back, or put a
crossbar under the door path (that will clear the door) to take the
load the brace used to. Those steel sheds usually are engineered
really close to the edge on strength, don't start removing without
replacing.
And as to getting the spring crossbar mounted in the right place,
you might have to take down the door and remount it after using 2X8 or
2X12 lumber on the inside to simulate the normal garage door 4X8 or
4X12 header beam and 2X6 vertical to simulate the 4X6 king posts, and
take angle brackets and concrete anchors to transfer the weight to the
slab. (If no slab, dig a hole and make some sort of a concrete
footing there, same reason.)
May need to have 1X planks or plywood filler shims cut to go around
the seams of the steel door header and posts on the inside, so the
'new' header and posts are flat, level and square...
I'll bet you tried to modify the mounting locations to pick up on
the steel shed skin & seams, and that simply isn't going to work right
- and then the skin is going to fail around the brackets because it
wasn't meant to have those point loads there. Adding the wood will
spread the loads out over a much larger area and to many small screws.
WARNING: Be VERY careful when installing or removing that tension
spring - it can and will take your head clean off if you screw up.
You won't like it, and SWMBO won't be too thrilled either.
--<< Bruce >>--
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Posted by Richard J Kinch on April 29, 2008, 11:47 pm
Please log in for more thread options Bruce L. Bergman writes:
> The aircraft cable isn't just winding onto a plain spool, it's
> following a varying radius tracking snail groove so that the force
> goes down as the door goes up and approaches the end of the run, to
> equalize the assistance needed.
You've got it quite inside out. The spiral drums create a net *constant*
force by mirroring the torsion decline as the springs unwind. And these
are not used on a standard residential door, since the spring torsion and
weight to be lifted both decline linearly as the door goes up (consider why
those are both the case). Spiral drums are used on straight-lift
commercial doors.
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Posted by Richard J Kinch on April 29, 2008, 11:49 pm
Please log in for more thread options stryped writes:
> What can I do?
First thing is to understand the principles of how these doors work. See
my essay at:
http://www.truetex.com/garage.htm
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>hardware may not be right. The "latches" that attach each section to
>the next, I noticed the manual called number 1 hinge number 2 hinge
>etc. But to me the picture looked no different in terms of number 2 vs
>number 3.