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Posted by stryped on April 29, 2008, 1:29 pm
Please log in for more thread options > Door stops: On a wood framed door, you start with the raw 2x4 (or
> whatever) frame, then nail up some 1x6 stock as the finished surface
> (casing) between the inner edge of the building and the outer sheathing.
> Apply siding, brick molding and any other finishing material you want.
> The garage door is installed inside the building but the framing is
> never quite right so there are gaps between the door and the casing,
> 1/4" to 1/2" gaps are quite normal. As the very last thing, the 1/2" x2"
> door stops are nailed in place with the door down. These are thin enough
> to take up any imperfections and make it weather tight. A metal shelled
> building will need the same strips in metal, check with your dealer.
>
> Metal framed buildings: We have metal framed buildings (prefabbed metal
> =A0 support beams with metal siding) and pole barns (wood posts with metal=
> siding). Same difference, they tend to be not very square. If the door
> looks cockeyed, it is likely that something is not square. Take some
> diagonal measurements to see what's going on.
>
> The garage door is installed completely inside the building inner wall.
> It works best if all is square and flat, the door tracks can accommodate
> some not so flat conditions, tends to bind a bit but it works. It also
> works if the opening is not square, you just use the door stops to fit
> it up tight. Looks funny but it works.
>
>
>
> stryped wrote:
> >> You either don't have things installed square or enough tension on the
> >> cables. When the door is fully up, there still should be some residual
> >> tension. That is what keeps it in the upright position. For install, th=
e
> >> door is set in place on it's track, then you start cranking the torsion=
> >> spring(s)
>
> >> Big warning here: Torsion springs are nasty to tighten or loosen. You
> >> need to have the correct size of bars (various mfgs use different
> >> sizes), the bars need to be good cold rolled (the hot rolled may bend a=
t
> >> the wrong time), and you need to know what you are doing. Failure to
> >> heed these leads to a spinning bar and no teeth left in your jaw.
>
> >> It also sounds like you may have mixed up the support brackets on the
> >> track. The track is at a very slight angle to the door frame so that it=
> >> does not rub all the way down. The hinges match, each hinge up has a
> >> slightly longer throw than the one below it. The door runs freely until=
> >> the last few inches, then moves out to contact the door stops.
>
> >> And you did figure out that the door is installed in the frame with all=
> >> the functional checkout, THEN you add the door stops to seal the openin=
g?
>
> > Forgive my ignorance, but what are you calling "door stops"?
>
> > This building is a metal framed building by the way. I am doing the
> > best I can. I may not have wound the spring tightly enough. I also
> > know that one pulley is about an inch lower than the other. And for
> > osme reason the door looks a little cockeyed at the fully up position
> > but when I measure it it is ok.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
So the "door stops? are the weatherstriping I bought with the edges
that cover the gaps? I hav enot installed those, I was going to do
that last.
I think someone was on to something when they said some of the
hardware may not be right. The "latches" that attach each section to
the next, I noticed the manual called number 1 hinge number 2 hinge
etc. But to me the picture looked no different in terms of number 2 vs
number 3.
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> their door. It has all the hardware and even the installation
> instructions. I have been for a week trying to “retrofit” it to my
> 12x16 shed.
>
> I have the track installed and can manually move it up or down but
> have tried and tried and cant get the torsion spring to work in
> helping with raising and lowering the door. I have done it countless
> times all that ends up happening is the wire on the pulleys on both
> ends end up “birdnesting” and going everywhere. Yesterday it actually
> helped bull it up before it finally birdnested.
>
> What can I do? Would having one pulley slightly higher than the other
> cause this problem? I have had to do the best job I could with the
> limited room I have.
>
> Another thing I noticed is when I manually raise the door, the bottom
> roller seems to be in a different place on the track on one side
> verses the other. I measured the tracks on both sides though and they
> seem to be the same height.
>
> One last thing when I put it all the way up the end of the door just
> barely touched a support on my shed roof. Just enough where the door
> wants to come down rather than stay in the upright position. Is there
> something I can add or do to keep the door up?
>
> Anyway I appreciate any help as this is driving me nuts and my wife is
> tired of me spending all my time on this!