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Posted by Proctologically Violated©® on April 21, 2006, 10:08 am
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There's a camber-type adjustment on the top idler wheel. I had problems w/
the blade popping off 'til someone showed me how to adjust it.
I've since forgotten how. :)
Also the ball bearing guides are cammed, I believe. You might be able to
snug them up on the blade.
I'm getting six 4x6's (!!!) from my supplier's scrap heap, out of which I
ought to be able to get 4 working ones. Will gang'em up on a water-tight
welded table, each one w/ coolant.
The logic is not to have to change speeds/blades so often.
I'll be a very bad HSM after that. :)
--
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
> We have had a few discussions in recent months about the overall quality
> of HF tools, and their portable bandsaw in particular. Each time I have
> chimed in, saying that I own both a Milwaukee and a HF one--until now I
> have considered that they work equally well.
>
> I can now report on a significant difference. I was cutting up some used
> iron porch rail, which sometimes caused me to run the saw with the blade
> slightly twisted out of alignment. The blade kept coming off the HF saw,
> so I switched to the Milwaukee, and had no more trouble. IOW, the blade
> guides on the Milwaukee seem to work a lot better.
>
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> of HF tools, and their portable bandsaw in particular. Each time I have
> chimed in, saying that I own both a Milwaukee and a HF one--until now I
> have considered that they work equally well.
>
> I can now report on a significant difference. I was cutting up some used
> iron porch rail, which sometimes caused me to run the saw with the blade
> slightly twisted out of alignment. The blade kept coming off the HF saw,
> so I switched to the Milwaukee, and had no more trouble. IOW, the blade
> guides on the Milwaukee seem to work a lot better.
>