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Posted by Leo Lichtman on May 18, 2008, 12:34 pm
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"Erik" wrote: (clip) One caution is to remember to relieve the blade
tension when the frame
> isn't in use. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I'd like to know the reason for that. There is a common belief that one
should not leave a camera shutter or a gun cocked. As far as I can see,
this would matter only if steel creeps under stress--which it generally does
not.
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Posted by Wes on May 18, 2008, 7:21 pm
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>
>"Erik" wrote: (clip) One caution is to remember to relieve the blade
>tension when the frame
>> isn't in use. (clip)
>^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>I'd like to know the reason for that. There is a common belief that one
>should not leave a camera shutter or a gun cocked. As far as I can see,
>this would matter only if steel creeps under stress--which it generally does
>not.
>
Leo, I had the same thoughts. I de-tension my ww bandsaw to protect the
tires. A hacksaw frame, if it can't stand the tension, it is junk, same for
the blade.
Wes
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Posted by RAM³ on May 19, 2008, 4:36 am
Please log in for more thread options >
> "Erik" wrote: (clip) One caution is to remember to relieve the blade
> tension when the frame
>> isn't in use. (clip)
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> I'd like to know the reason for that. There is a common belief that one
> should not leave a camera shutter or a gun cocked. As far as I can see,
> this would matter only if steel creeps under stress--which it generally
> does not.
>
Actually, the reason dates back to the early wood-framed saws: in order to
keep the wood frame from distorting, de-tensioning the saw would eliminate
the reshaping of the frame.
The practice carried forward into the early metal-framed saws for the same
reason: to avoid putting a "bow" in the back of the frame and/or bending the
frame on an adjustable-length frame.
It's still a good practice for cheap saws - including such non-metalworking
items as Coping and Bow saws. <g>
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Posted by Ned Simmons on May 18, 2008, 8:22 pm
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>
>I have two of them, my favorite is an older, essentially identical
>version of this one...
>
>http://www.toolbarn.com/product/lenox/20918-4012/
>
>The one piece die cast aluminum handle and frame end have good feel,
That's the best hacksaw I've found as well. Note the bulge in the hand
grip. I also own one of the Starretts mentioned elsewhere in this
thread. The handle on the Starrett is flat-sided and too thin for
comfort.
Lenox bi-metal blades are also far better than Starrett blades, though
they are relatively expensive.
http://www.toolbarn.com/product/lenox/20117-224HE/
--
Ned Simmons
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Posted by Doug White on May 18, 2008, 11:03 am
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>It is probably 20 years since I bought a new hacksaw frame.
>
>Looking to improve my cutting precision as much as possible I have been
>looking through the internet catalogues at various hacksaw frames. I cannot
>make head or tail of some of the features.
>
>Are some of the things like extra support beams and pimped-up handles
>allowing up to 30,000 psi tensioning really better than the old frames?
I just went through this exercise. After considerable research, I ended
up get the Nicholson #80965. They are about $20 at Lowes. The frame is
good & solid, it's easy to get good tension on the blades, it has blade
storage, and can be set up as a stab saw (haven't tried that yet). The
rear grip fits my hand well and is very comfortable, and it has a rubber
coated gripping horn for your forward hand that is much more comfortable
than the older frames.
As for blade tension, it's hard to over tension a blade. They will last
longer & cut straighter when they are really good & tight.
Doug White
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