Help: Brake Recommendations?

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Help: Brake Recommendations? Searcher7 05-04-2008
Posted by RAM³ on May 4, 2008, 11:53 pm
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e521dc84b0d8@56g2000hsm.googlegroups.com:

> Anyway, what I am making is a replica of a video game control panel
> that was originally made of B.C. plywood covered with veneer. So now
> I'm forced to wonder if 1/16" thick steel would be sturdy enough.

If this is a one-off, there are several possibilities:

1. Have you considered using Plexiglass?
        Most plastics suppliers can bend a piece to your specifications.

2. Have you considered using marine plywood?
        Soak your piece(s) in hot water for an hour and then bend to shape
                 using 2" PVC pipe cut in half for the exterior mold and 1.5"
                 for the inside of the curve. If multiple pieces, glue after
                 all pieces are dry.

3. Have you considered multiple layers of light sheet metal?
        Cut as many sheets as needed for the final thickness, narrowing each
                 by the thickness of the metal above it or re-cutting after the
                 "sandwich" is finalized.
        
        A "mold" as described in 2. can be used for forming by not removing
                 any sheet until the "sandwich" is completely formed.


Posted by Steve W. on May 5, 2008, 12:00 am
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> Due to an ommision I deleted my first post from Google and re-posted,
> but I guess certain news readers grabbed it up immediately and now
> there are two of these threads.
>
> Anyway, what I am making is a replica of a video game control panel
> that was originally made of B.C. plywood covered with veneer. So now
> I'm forced to wonder if 1/16" thick steel would be sturdy enough.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Darren Harris
> Staten Island, New York.

If you mean the outer shell of an arcade style game what do you even
need steel for? Use some MDF for the side panels and the top control
board. Then use 2X2 glued into the inner corners under the deck. That
was all the original games used. I have an original Pac-man and a
Missile Command and both are MDF with veneer and screen printed logo
panels. There are steel angle brackets for the rear access panels and
the CRT cover. They are 16 gauge formed steel.

--
Steve W.

Posted by Gunner Asch on May 5, 2008, 12:33 am
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On Sun, 4 May 2008 18:22:24 -0700 (PDT), Searcher7

>> On Sun, 04 May 2008 19:12:58 GMT, "John R. Carroll"
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> >JR North wrote:
>> >>> I am looking into a tool that will allow me to bend 6" X 24"(1/8"
>> >>> thick) mild steel lengthwise to about 90 degrees.
>>
>> >>> I'd appreciate any ideas on what I'd need, or possibly a website
>> >>> tutorial for this.
>>
>> >>> Thanks a lot.
>>
>> >>> Darren Harris
>> >>> Staten Island, New York.
>> >> On Sun, 4 May 2008 11:12:14 -0700 (PDT), Searcher7
>>
>> >> The only relatively inexpensive (<$500) brakes will only do 16ga max.
>> >> A brake to do 1/8" sheet is gonna cost you...plenty.
>> >> JR
>> >> Dweller in the cellar
>>
>> >I'll bet Gunner could hook him up with something for a couple hundred
>> >dollars or less.
>>
>> http://bd-4.org/bendingbrake.html
>>
>> www.zena.net/htdocs/welders/projects.shtml
>>
>> http://www.lindsaybks.com/dgjp/djgbk/series/index.html
>>
>> Its actually pretty hard to find a brake that will do 1/8" steel on
>> the surplus market
>>
>> Thats well into the press brake capacity.
>>
>> If its only one or two pieces, most fabrication shops will do it for
>> you for little money
>>
>> Its fairly easy to make a beefy version of the above brakes, that will
>> do 24x 1/8" flat stock. Simply scale up the plans, and put a LONG
>> lever on it. If something breaks, (pun intended) beef it up again.
>>
>> Gunner
>>
>> Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional,
>> illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an
>> unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the
>> proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.-
Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
>Due to an ommision I deleted my first post from Google and re-posted,
>but I guess certain news readers grabbed it up immediately and now
>there are two of these threads.
>
>Anyway, what I am making is a replica of a video game control panel
>that was originally made of B.C. plywood covered with veneer. So now
>I'm forced to wonder if 1/16" thick steel would be sturdy enough.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Darren Harris
>Staten Island, New York.


Does it even need to be made of steel? A nice piece of 5/16 lexan or
other plastic can be pretty stiff, and is easily formed with a simple
form and a heat source.

Reading the other posts showed that it wasnt a true 90, but a very
large radius, which means Press Brake and dies, as its very hard to
roll that sort of radius on anything in a hobbists shop

One Could cobble something up, using a solid bar of the proper
diameter, several hydraulic bottle jacks and some I beams

Gunner

Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional,
illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an
unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the
proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

Posted by Jim Levie on May 4, 2008, 3:42 pm
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On Sun, 4 May 2008 11:12:14 -0700 (PDT), Searcher7

>I am looking into a tool that will allow me to bend 6" X 24"(1/8"
>thick) mild steel lengthwise to about 90 degrees.
>
>I'd appreciate any ideas on what I'd need, or possibly a website
>tutorial for this.
>
A hydraulic press brake comes to mind, but unless this is a high
production need the cost is probably more than you'd want to pay.

If there's an iron working shop near, they would probably make the
bends for a modest fee.

Posted by RAM³ on May 4, 2008, 3:48 pm
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> I am looking into a tool that will allow me to bend 6" X 24"(1/8"
> thick) mild steel lengthwise to about 90 degrees.
>
> I'd appreciate any ideas on what I'd need, or possibly a website
> tutorial for this.
>
> Thanks a lot.
>
> Darren Harris
> Staten Island, New York.

How about just buying it pre-formed?
<http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=9942&step=4&showunits=inches&id=276&top_cat=0>


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