|
Posted by Ignoramus9931 on May 29, 2008, 7:59 am
Please log in for more thread options
Related to my yesterday's vise refurbishing project, where I milled a
little thin layer off the anvil to make it look smooth. I used a 5/8"
carbide endmill. I made multiple passes, each time removing a "strip"
approximately 1/2" wide.
While the result is perfectly acceptable for a vise anvil, it was
nothing to brag about as far as finish quality is concerned.
Here's one revealing picture:
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/misc/Repainting-Of-Wilton-500S-Vise/Repainting-Of-Wilton-500S-Vise-2182.jpg
The ridges you see, are visually exaggerated by the fact that some
passes fere from left to right and some were from right to left. They
look bigger than they are because of this. In reality they are not
really that high.
So. What would you do, to achieve a decent looking flat finish,
without a surface grinder or anything of the sort.
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/
|
|
Posted by Bruno on May 29, 2008, 9:19 am
Please log in for more thread options
>Related to my yesterday's vise refurbishing project, where I milled a
>little thin layer off the anvil to make it look smooth. I used a 5/8"
>carbide endmill. I made multiple passes, each time removing a "strip"
>approximately 1/2" wide.
>
>While the result is perfectly acceptable for a vise anvil, it was
>nothing to brag about as far as finish quality is concerned.
>
>Here's one revealing picture:
>
>http://igor.chudov.com/projects/misc/Repainting-Of-Wilton-500S-Vise/Repainting-Of-Wilton-500S-Vise-2182.jpg
>
>The ridges you see, are visually exaggerated by the fact that some
>passes fere from left to right and some were from right to left. They
>look bigger than they are because of this. In reality they are not
>really that high.
>
>So. What would you do, to achieve a decent looking flat finish,
>without a surface grinder or anything of the sort.
Flycutter
|
|
Posted by Steve Lusardi on May 29, 2008, 9:34 am
Please log in for more thread options It is not possible to get a flat surface with a milling machine anymore than
you can get with a cup grinder. The surface looks flat and for most
applications is flat enough. This is where the old fashion planer and shaper
have the task covered. Fly cutters, face mills and cup grinders are all
subject to spindle deflection and tramming issues, where the stroking
pointed lathe cutter is not. That is why I will not part with my 18" 4 ton
shaper. It makes flat surfaces. My humble opinion.
Steve
>
>>Related to my yesterday's vise refurbishing project, where I milled a
>>little thin layer off the anvil to make it look smooth. I used a 5/8"
>>carbide endmill. I made multiple passes, each time removing a "strip"
>>approximately 1/2" wide.
>>
>>While the result is perfectly acceptable for a vise anvil, it was
>>nothing to brag about as far as finish quality is concerned.
>>
>>Here's one revealing picture:
>>
>>http://igor.chudov.com/projects/misc/Repainting-Of-Wilton-500S-Vise/Repainting-Of-Wilton-500S-Vise-2182.jpg
>>
>>The ridges you see, are visually exaggerated by the fact that some
>>passes fere from left to right and some were from right to left. They
>>look bigger than they are because of this. In reality they are not
>>really that high.
>>
>>So. What would you do, to achieve a decent looking flat finish,
>>without a surface grinder or anything of the sort.
>
> Flycutter
>
>
|
|
Posted by Jim Stewart on May 29, 2008, 3:25 pm
Please log in for more thread options Bruno wrote:
>
>> Related to my yesterday's vise refurbishing project, where I milled a
>> little thin layer off the anvil to make it look smooth. I used a 5/8"
>> carbide endmill. I made multiple passes, each time removing a "strip"
>> approximately 1/2" wide.
>>
>> While the result is perfectly acceptable for a vise anvil, it was
>> nothing to brag about as far as finish quality is concerned.
>>
>> Here's one revealing picture:
>>
>>
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/misc/Repainting-Of-Wilton-500S-Vise/Repainting-Of-Wilton-500S-Vise-2182.jpg
>>
>> The ridges you see, are visually exaggerated by the fact that some
>> passes fere from left to right and some were from right to left. They
>> look bigger than they are because of this. In reality they are not
>> really that high.
>>
>> So. What would you do, to achieve a decent looking flat finish,
>> without a surface grinder or anything of the sort.
>
> Flycutter
With the head meticulously aligned parallel.
|
|
Posted by Lloyd E. Sponenburgh on May 29, 2008, 9:28 am
Please log in for more thread options
> Related to my yesterday's vise refurbishing project, where I milled a
> little thin layer off the anvil to make it look smooth. I used a 5/8"
> carbide endmill. I made multiple passes, each time removing a "strip"
> approximately 1/2" wide.
>
> While the result is perfectly acceptable for a vise anvil, it was
> nothing to brag about as far as finish quality is concerned.
>
> Here's one revealing picture:
>
> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/misc/Repainting-Of-Wilton-500S-Vise/Rep
> ainting-Of-Wilton-500S-Vise-2182.jpg
>
> The ridges you see, are visually exaggerated by the fact that some
> passes fere from left to right and some were from right to left. They
> look bigger than they are because of this. In reality they are not
> really that high.
>
> So. What would you do, to achieve a decent looking flat finish,
> without a surface grinder or anything of the sort.
>
Iggy, you need to square up the bit to the work. Your vertical axis is
off-kilter. The ridges are an artifact of each cut being a slightly
radiused groove, rather than a "true" face-milling.
Usually, it just involves squaring up the head in its rotation. Rarely,
but on old, worn machines, the table might not be square vertically along
the y axis. That one's harder to fix, and often not worth it.
LLoyd
|
| Similar Threads | Posted | | Re: How to mill a flat surface | May 29, 2008, 3:45 pm |
| surface gauge - why flat base? | July 2, 2008, 5:21 am |
| Get a flat $25.00+MUCH MORE ADVANCE | February 25, 2007, 5:17 pm |
| Source for aluminium flat | October 8, 2006, 1:07 pm |
| Flat head cap screws | November 30, 2006, 10:14 am |
| Ground flat stock? | December 27, 2006, 10:11 am |
| Aluminum flat bar bender? | September 29, 2007, 3:58 pm |
| facing off a flat disk.... | March 22, 2006, 3:28 pm |
| Flat steel band... | April 15, 2008, 11:58 am |
| Flat File Gloat/Score | November 10, 2006, 8:07 pm |
|
|
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap
>little thin layer off the anvil to make it look smooth. I used a 5/8"
>carbide endmill. I made multiple passes, each time removing a "strip"
>approximately 1/2" wide.
>
>While the result is perfectly acceptable for a vise anvil, it was
>nothing to brag about as far as finish quality is concerned.
>
>Here's one revealing picture:
>
>http://igor.chudov.com/projects/misc/Repainting-Of-Wilton-500S-Vise/Repainting-Of-Wilton-500S-Vise-2182.jpg
>
>The ridges you see, are visually exaggerated by the fact that some
>passes fere from left to right and some were from right to left. They
>look bigger than they are because of this. In reality they are not
>really that high.
>
>So. What would you do, to achieve a decent looking flat finish,
>without a surface grinder or anything of the sort.