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Posted by Greg O on February 23, 2008, 3:41 pm
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>
>
> the tire shop does not likely run the tools at 150PSI but if the shop
> has or had air lifts or air tire changers they might be operating at
> 150psi. at the tool ports there is likely a secondary regulator to
> drop it down to 90 or thereaboutsbut the entire shop can be run off of
> the single two stage beast and the branch line for the tools is
> regulated down further than the primary machines
Don't bet on that!
I worked at a shop years back and all the air was at 175 PSI. You had a
tough time even connecting a standard QD. You sure did not want to get your
hand stuck between the handle of an air ratchet and the engine block!
Greg
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Posted by on February 23, 2008, 9:00 pm
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On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 08:37:42 -0800 (PST), Brent
>> I bought what is apparently the most powerful 1/2" drive impact wrench
>> available IR 2135 with 1000 ftlb or torque and am still finding it
>> weak. The other day it would not remove the bolts that hold on my
>> front brake caliper bracket and sometimes it wll not remove lugnuts. I
>> am using it at 125psi with 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" M (milton) quick
>> connects). Would going to 3/8" qc fittings help at all? I notived a
>> local tire shop has the air pressure at 150 psi. Is this what is
>> needed? How come air tools say never to go above 90 psi?
>
>the tire shop does not likely run the tools at 150PSI but if the shop
>has or had air lifts or air tire changers they might be operating at
>150psi. at the tool ports there is likely a secondary regulator to
>drop it down to 90 or thereaboutsbut the entire shop can be run off of
>the single two stage beast and the branch line for the tools is
>regulated down further than the primary machines
I never reduced the pressure on my impacts from the 150 shop line
pressure. Mine DID have a "power" adjustment that allowed me to dial
the wrench back for assembling, and dial it up for dissassembling.
The 1000 ft lb spec is instantanious torque, not average or mean
torque, and the high shock torque is what an "IMPACT" wrench is all
about. And yes, if a 1/2" wheel stud is severely rusted to the nut,
the impact WILL twist off the stud. So you punch it out and put in a
new one, with a new nut. That's how the job has to be done sometimes.
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
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Posted by Mark Rand on February 24, 2008, 4:35 pm
Please log in for more thread options On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 21:00:11 -0500, clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:
>I never reduced the pressure on my impacts from the 150 shop line
>pressure. Mine DID have a "power" adjustment that allowed me to dial
>the wrench back for assembling, and dial it up for dissassembling.
>
</RHETORICAL>
How do you get accurate torque when assembling with an impact wrench?
The wheel nuts on my car require 81lb-ft of torque (put the wheels on today
after a brake job) they assemble and disassemble easily by hand. A shop uses
an impact wrench on them and they don't until they've undone them and re-done
them with a torque wrench! The crankshaft pulley needs 200lb-ft. Also a manual
job, just use a longer handle.
I can understand the use of an impact wrench for undoing truck wheel nuts, but
with anything less than 400 lb-ft I would question the use of power tools for
assembly. Much above that and I would be using a crane and balance. For large
bolts, I would be expecting to use either hydraulic bolts or heated bolts and
a micrometer, per the drawings.
</RHETORICAL>
Am I being excessively picky?
Mark Rand
RTFM
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Posted by RoyJ on February 24, 2008, 6:04 pm
Please log in for more thread options The GOOD shops have a torque stick instead of an extension bar, it
breaks loose at a specified (but somewhat inaccurate) measurement. Then
torque it up properly by hand with a calibrated torque wrench. The
mediocre shops use the torque stick alone. The bad shops have a bubble
gum brain impact wrench jockey pull the trigger until it is "good and tight"
I don't look down on a shop that uses an impact wrench for assembly as
long as they had start the bolts and had torque them afterward. It does
save a lot of time when doing a lot of similar bolts eg on the engine.
Mark Rand wrote:
> On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 21:00:11 -0500, clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:
>
>> I never reduced the pressure on my impacts from the 150 shop line
>> pressure. Mine DID have a "power" adjustment that allowed me to dial
>> the wrench back for assembling, and dial it up for dissassembling.
>>
>
> </RHETORICAL>
> How do you get accurate torque when assembling with an impact wrench?
>
> The wheel nuts on my car require 81lb-ft of torque (put the wheels on today
> after a brake job) they assemble and disassemble easily by hand. A shop uses
> an impact wrench on them and they don't until they've undone them and re-done
> them with a torque wrench! The crankshaft pulley needs 200lb-ft. Also a manual
> job, just use a longer handle.
>
>
> I can understand the use of an impact wrench for undoing truck wheel nuts, but
> with anything less than 400 lb-ft I would question the use of power tools for
> assembly. Much above that and I would be using a crane and balance. For large
> bolts, I would be expecting to use either hydraulic bolts or heated bolts and
> a micrometer, per the drawings.
> </RHETORICAL>
>
>
> Am I being excessively picky?
>
>
> Mark Rand
> RTFM
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Posted by on February 24, 2008, 7:16 pm
Please log in for more thread options On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 21:35:30 +0000, Mark Rand
>On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 21:00:11 -0500, clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:
>
>>I never reduced the pressure on my impacts from the 150 shop line
>>pressure. Mine DID have a "power" adjustment that allowed me to dial
>>the wrench back for assembling, and dial it up for dissassembling.
>>
>
> </RHETORICAL>
>How do you get accurate torque when assembling with an impact wrench?
>
>The wheel nuts on my car require 81lb-ft of torque (put the wheels on today
>after a brake job) they assemble and disassemble easily by hand. A shop uses
>an impact wrench on them and they don't until they've undone them and re-done
>them with a torque wrench! The crankshaft pulley needs 200lb-ft. Also a manual
>job, just use a longer handle.
>
>
>I can understand the use of an impact wrench for undoing truck wheel nuts, but
>with anything less than 400 lb-ft I would question the use of power tools for
>assembly. Much above that and I would be using a crane and balance. For large
>bolts, I would be expecting to use either hydraulic bolts or heated bolts and
>a micrometer, per the drawings.
> </RHETORICAL>
>
>
>Am I being excessively picky?
>
>
>Mark Rand
>RTFM
Assembly with an impact is strictly a "speed" thing.
With the proper "torque stick" and the proper technique, it is
possible to "torque" a wheel nut accurately with an impact
wrench(within less than 10%)
I have, for decades, made a practice of putting the wheels on with the
impact wrench, then going around and checking the torque on ALL the
studs with the torque wrench before letting the car out of the shop.
I generally check my own vehicles again after 50-100 miles of driving.
On truck wheel nuts a "geared" torque wrench is often used (planetary
drive multiplier)
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
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>
> the tire shop does not likely run the tools at 150PSI but if the shop
> has or had air lifts or air tire changers they might be operating at
> 150psi. at the tool ports there is likely a secondary regulator to
> drop it down to 90 or thereaboutsbut the entire shop can be run off of
> the single two stage beast and the branch line for the tools is
> regulated down further than the primary machines