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Posted by Joe Pfeiffer on February 24, 2008, 2:36 am
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>
> I was just looking at the specs for the 2135TiMAX and noticed that the
> specs say minimum hose size is 3/8", but the air inlet is only
> 1/4". Air consumption is listed as 5 cfm, but it does not give an air
> pressure.
>
> Anyway, if the air inlet is 1/4", why would it help to put on 3/8" qc?
Because you're having a lot of air available upstream of a relatively
short section that's only 1/4".
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Posted by Bruce L. Bergman on February 23, 2008, 6:03 pm
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wrote:
>I bought what is apparently the most powerful 1/2" drive impact wrench
>available IR 2135 with 1000 ftlb or torque and am still finding it
>weak. The other day it would not remove the bolts that hold on my
>front brake caliper bracket and sometimes it wll not remove lugnuts. I
>am using it at 125psi with 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" M (milton) quick
>connects). Would going to 3/8" qc fittings help at all? I notived a
>local tire shop has the air pressure at 150 psi. Is this what is
>needed? How come air tools say never to go above 90 psi?
When you are trying to push high power through air tools, the
resistance of the air line and couplers becomes critically important.
It's just like trying to run a 1000 HP dragster, but feed it fuel with
a stock VW Bug fuel pump - it just can't flow fast enough.
Do an experiment - try moving the compressor close to the car, or
vice versa. Take all the couplings out of the system - put the 3/8"
hose straight into the gun, and the other end into a 3/8 full-flow
ball valve and right into the air receiver tank.
That should be nearly free (no parts) and prove the problem.
If it does, that's the time to upgrade your air piping in the shop
to get from the tank to your workplace with a big pipe and as little
extra crap in the way as you can.
3/4" Type K extra-heavy or Type L heavy copper pipe (Not M) with as
few elbows as possible save for drip legs on each drop - your tee goes
UP from the main line before going over to the wall and down. (The
water stays in the main line, which is sloped to a drain valve.) 1/2"
or better high-flow filter-regulator-lubricator (rated for the CFM
flow of the wrench with a cushion), 1/2" QD couplings, 1/2" hoses.
* * * * * * * *
WARNING: DO NOT USE PVC PLASTIC PIPE FOR COMPRESSED AIR!! EVER!!
Even as a temporary system or for experimenting, as it tends to get
left in service far longer than intended. Hit or twist PVC pipe under
pressure and it shatters and goes "Boom!" People get hit by the
flying shrapnel and can be hurt, blinded, or occasionally killed.
* * * * * * * *
If you can't do this, consider a 5-gallon or better receiver tank as
an accumulator right next to the workplace and the impact wrench - put
the biggest hose you can from the wrench to the accumulator, and then
plumb that to your regular compressor. It will give you a burst of
full flow and full power to break the nuts loose, then you'll hit the
existing air system restrictions.
And even if you have a little "2 Sears Horsepower" portable air
compressor, throw as much air receiver tank gallonage on as you can.
The impact only needs 5 seconds of full-flow air to get that nut
moving - so what if it takes 15 minutes for the compressor to build it
back up...
The tools usually say 90 PSI Max because the internal pieces of the
hammers and anvils for the impact system start breaking if you use too
much force. They will take being used with a moderate overpressure
for a while, but do it constantly and you will see internal failures
far before their time.
--<< Bruce >>--
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Posted by Dan on February 23, 2008, 6:47 pm
Please log in for more thread options We ran a steam pump this week on a steam hose. We were connected to
110 psi steam manifold then ran a 50' 3/4" steam hose. The
conglomeration of fittings we came up with was a mixture of 3/4" and
1" fittings going up and down in size. Three elbows I think. With all
the vales wide open, we only had 40 psi at the little turbine. We just
wanted to run it a little and it ran fine, but there sure was a lot of
pressure drop there.
In theory, if you ran long enough 1/4" hoses, the gun wouldn't run at
all. Use big hose and then a short whip, 6' of 3/8" at the gun will
help tremendously. Of course, 1/2" hose is expensive.
We ran a steam pump this week on a steam hose. We were connected to
110 psi steam manifold then ran a 50' 3/4" steam hose. The
conglomeration of fittings we came up with was a mixture of 3/4" and
1" fittings going up and down in size. Three elbows I think. With all
the vales wide open, we only had 40 psi at the little turbine. We just
wanted to run it a little and it ran fine, but there sure was a lot of
pressure drop there.
In theory, if you ran long enough 1/4" hoses, the gun wouldn't run at
all. Use big hose and then a short whip, 6' of 3/8" at the gun will
help tremendously. Of course, 1/2" hose is expensive.
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Posted by Shawn on February 23, 2008, 8:19 pm
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> wrote:
>
>>I bought what is apparently the most powerful 1/2" drive impact wrench
>>available IR 2135 with 1000 ftlb or torque and am still finding it
>>weak. The other day it would not remove the bolts that hold on my
>>front brake caliper bracket and sometimes it wll not remove lugnuts. I
>>am using it at 125psi with 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" M (milton) quick
>>connects). Would going to 3/8" qc fittings help at all? I notived a
>>local tire shop has the air pressure at 150 psi. Is this what is
>>needed? How come air tools say never to go above 90 psi?
>
>
> If you can't do this, consider a 5-gallon or better receiver tank as
> an accumulator right next to the workplace and the impact wrench - put
> the biggest hose you can from the wrench to the accumulator, and then
> plumb that to your regular compressor. It will give you a burst of
> full flow and full power to break the nuts loose, then you'll hit the
> existing air system restrictions.
>
>
> --<< Bruce >>--
>
I use a small air brake tank salvaged from a military water buffalo for just
that. The tank is something like 6" in diameter and 8" long with ports on
each bell end. I have quick disconnects on each end and the air wrench
attaches right to the tank. I use this setup on my 3/4" impact and it makes
ALL the difference. With this setup I don't have to upgrade my 3/8" air
line for the 3/4" impact wrench. It's kinda neat listening to the tank
refill after each trigger pull, which proves that the air line is undersized
/ overly restricted for the amount of air being demanded.
Shawn
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Posted by Up North on February 23, 2008, 6:45 pm
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>I bought what is apparently the most powerful 1/2" drive impact wrench
> available IR 2135 with 1000 ftlb or torque and am still finding it
> weak. The other day it would not remove the bolts that hold on my
> front brake caliper bracket and sometimes it wll not remove lugnuts. I
> am using it at 125psi with 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" M (milton) quick
> connects). Would going to 3/8" qc fittings help at all? I notived a
> local tire shop has the air pressure at 150 psi. Is this what is
> needed? How come air tools say never to go above 90 psi?
When my impact seems weak I give it a shot of air tool oil. It works
wonders.
Steve
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> I was just looking at the specs for the 2135TiMAX and noticed that the
> specs say minimum hose size is 3/8", but the air inlet is only
> 1/4". Air consumption is listed as 5 cfm, but it does not give an air
> pressure.
>
> Anyway, if the air inlet is 1/4", why would it help to put on 3/8" qc?