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Posted by Jon Elson on March 23, 2008, 1:21 am
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spaco wrote:
> I never notice any of this vibration with my Kurt swivel.
> What kind of cuts do you take? I will often take a 40 thou full cut
> with a 1 1/2" face mill.
Well, I assumed that the same factory cloned the vis and swivel,
but that could be totally wrong. The vise was a VERY well-made
piece, and I still use it, and am totally happy with it. I take
heavy cuts from time to time, and have never had much trouble
with it unless I'm taking cuts at the very limits of my
Bridgeport. I did have a piece slide in the vise once, but that
was after the head started to swing on the swivel, and it was
"sucking" in the workpiece. I hit the off switch and dived for
cover.
But, the swivel part must not have been made to the same
standards, or maybe there was some swarf between vise and
swivel, allowing it to rock. But, I've never put the swivel
base back on.
Jon
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Posted by DoN. Nichols on March 21, 2008, 11:34 pm
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>
>
> Tom Gardner wrote:
>> I have a brand-spankin'-new Kurt D675 vise (no oopses yet) and I needed a way
to
>> do angled slots. I found this swivel base on eBay
> I got a Chinese Kurk knock-off some years ago, it came with the swivel.
A "Kurk" -- they couldn't even copy the name right? :-)
> The first cut I made with it, the vise was vibrating like crazy. So,
> I took off the swivel, bolted the vise directly to the table, and
> haven't used it since. Unless you will always make light cuts with the
> swivel, you will not be very happy with it at all. I'm not talking
> about a slight vibration, I could SEE the vise rocking from side to side!
Hmm ... the things which matter here:
1) The pin allows the vise to fully bottom on the swivel base.
2) There are no chips resting on and no dings in the swivel base
(which would otherwise hold part of the vise too high.
3) The T-bolts in the swivel base fit well, stick up through the ears
of the main vise body, and have proper sized flanged nuts firmly
tightened onto them to hold the vise body firmly onto the swivel
base.
4) The swivel base is likewise chip free in its interface with the
table, and firmly held down with proper T-studs and flanged nuts.
5) The swivel base should be checked for warpage before bolting
it down. If it is warped, especially in such a way as to hold
the sections between the hold-down ears clear of the table, it
could indeed rock.
6) And -- which I should have put as the first item, the alignment
keys in the bottom of the main vise body should be removed, and
replaced on the bottom of the swivel base -- or just set aside.
If they are left on the main vise body, they may hold the vise
a bit clear of the swivel base and thus allow it to rock.
> Maybe the Kurt is stiffer in some way, but I doubt it is a great
> improvement on the knock-off, as cast iron is fairly cheap.
Or -- maybe one or more of the points above needed seeing to.
I've had good results with a swivel base on both a 4" Kurt clone
and a 3" Kurt clone -- with rather heavy cuts in a horizontal spindle
milling machine.
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
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Posted by Jon Elson on March 23, 2008, 1:25 am
Please log in for more thread options DoN. Nichols wrote:
>
>>
>>Tom Gardner wrote:
>>
>>>I have a brand-spankin'-new Kurt D675 vise (no oopses yet) and I needed a way
to
>>>do angled slots. I found this swivel base on eBay
>
>
>>I got a Chinese Kurk knock-off some years ago, it came with the swivel.
>
>
> A "Kurk" -- they couldn't even copy the name right? :-)
Nah, I couldn't even TYPE right! The plate has fallen off, but
it had some Chinese name on it.
>
> 2) There are no chips resting on and no dings in the swivel base
> (which would otherwise hold part of the vise too high.
>
I'll bet there may have been some chips there. the pin was
binding in the vise body, so I had great difficulty separating
the two, and they've never been together again.
>
> 6) And -- which I should have put as the first item, the alignment
> keys in the bottom of the main vise body should be removed, and
> replaced on the bottom of the swivel base -- or just set aside.
> If they are left on the main vise body, they may hold the vise
> a bit clear of the swivel base and thus allow it to rock.
>
The keys hang way out beyond the swivel, so they can't interfere.
>
>>Maybe the Kurt is stiffer in some way, but I doubt it is a great
>>improvement on the knock-off, as cast iron is fairly cheap.
>
>
> Or -- maybe one or more of the points above needed seeing to.
>
> I've had good results with a swivel base on both a 4" Kurt clone
> and a 3" Kurt clone -- with rather heavy cuts in a horizontal spindle
> milling machine.
This is the 6" model, and I wish I had a bigger one, but I
wouldn't want to lift it. Anyway, now that I have CNC, I don't
NEED the swivel anymore, so I don't care what the problem was.
Jon
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Posted by DoN. Nichols on March 23, 2008, 9:22 pm
Please log in for more thread options > DoN. Nichols wrote:
[ ... ]
>> 2) There are no chips resting on and no dings in the swivel base
>> (which would otherwise hold part of the vise too high.
>>
> I'll bet there may have been some chips there. the pin was
> binding in the vise body, so I had great difficulty separating
> the two, and they've never been together again.
Hmm ... if the pin was binding, perhaps the vise body did not
set down far enough -- held up by the pin, and thus pulling up part of
the swivel ring.
>> 6) And -- which I should have put as the first item, the alignment
>> keys in the bottom of the main vise body should be removed, and
>> replaced on the bottom of the swivel base -- or just set aside.
>> If they are left on the main vise body, they may hold the vise
>> a bit clear of the swivel base and thus allow it to rock.
>>
> The keys hang way out beyond the swivel, so they can't interfere.
O.K.
[ ... ]
>> I've had good results with a swivel base on both a 4" Kurt clone
>> and a 3" Kurt clone -- with rather heavy cuts in a horizontal spindle
>> milling machine.
> This is the 6" model, and I wish I had a bigger one, but I
> wouldn't want to lift it. Anyway, now that I have CNC, I don't
> NEED the swivel anymore, so I don't care what the problem was.
The horizontal is a small one a Nichols, and the swivel base for
the 4" Kurt clone projects far enough off the edge of the table to limit
the Y-travel. With the vise alone, there is no problem. There is only
one T-slot in the table, so there is no option to mount the swivel base
in a different T-slot to avoid the intereference.
The 3" clone fits with no interference, so it was what I used
until I got a genuine Nichols milling vise which is closer to 5" grip
and on a swivel, but with no interference. Also -- the swivel base has
a vernier scale to allow angle setting to 15 minutes IIRC. The Kurt
clone does not even zero properly. :-)
I do have a 6" genuine Kurt (those are more affordable than the
smaller ones), but no swivel base for it, because that machine was a CNC
machine, too.
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
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Posted by Ignoramus11632 on March 21, 2008, 7:50 pm
Please log in for more thread options I sold a bunch of these and yes, something like that should fit. The
vise has a hole in the bottom in the middle to go over the protruding
round piece in the base.
Even better are swiveling and tilting vises. I have one by Palmgren, a
6" vise that swivels on a round base (like the one shown) and also
tilts to up to 45 degrees. It is very solid and much more so than the
chinese tilting imports.
i
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> What kind of cuts do you take? I will often take a 40 thou full cut
> with a 1 1/2" face mill.