|
Posted by Pete Keillor on May 7, 2006, 7:52 am
Please log in for more thread options Thanks, Walter. I'll go ahead and try it.
Pete Keillor
On Sat, 06 May 2006 19:36:59 GMT, "E. Walter Le Roy"
>That's what I use and it works. Of course it flexes quite a bit, but with
>light passes it'll get it done. I've built several model gas engines with
>it.
>Walt
>> To bore the frame of the 1/3 Galloway kit I got recently, I intend to
>> attach a 1/2" aluminum plate to the top of my cross slide. The cross
>> slide is flat and I figure I can drill and tap it in a carefully laid
>> out square pattern outside the dovetail and between the gib screws.
>> Then I can add tapped holes to the aluminum plate and clamp and shim
>> the frame about .052" to center height. That will allow me to
>> reposition the frame for boring the cylinder and boring the crank
>> bearings.
>>
>> I intend to use a boring head to be obtained (Yay, new tool!) for the
>> cylinder sleeve recess (2.275" id x 1.750" deep) from the cylinder
>> side, but I'm considering a boring bar between centers for the crank
>> bearings. The problem is I'll have to bore to .812" final id, and the
>> bar would have to be at least 10" long to traverse the frame. If I
>> used the boring head to rough to 0.78" or so, would a 3/4" x 10" bar
>> with a round hole for 3/16" round tool bit and say #8-32 setscrew hole
>> be stiff enough?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Pete Keillor
>
| 
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap
> attach a 1/2" aluminum plate to the top of my cross slide. The cross
> slide is flat and I figure I can drill and tap it in a carefully laid
> out square pattern outside the dovetail and between the gib screws.
> Then I can add tapped holes to the aluminum plate and clamp and shim
> the frame about .052" to center height. That will allow me to
> reposition the frame for boring the cylinder and boring the crank
> bearings.
>
> I intend to use a boring head to be obtained (Yay, new tool!) for the
> cylinder sleeve recess (2.275" id x 1.750" deep) from the cylinder
> side, but I'm considering a boring bar between centers for the crank
> bearings. The problem is I'll have to bore to .812" final id, and the
> bar would have to be at least 10" long to traverse the frame. If I
> used the boring head to rough to 0.78" or so, would a 3/4" x 10" bar
> with a round hole for 3/16" round tool bit and say #8-32 setscrew hole
> be stiff enough?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Pete Keillor