Pole barn shop/garage help

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Pole barn shop/garage help stryped 03-16-2006
Posted by stryped on March 16, 2006, 8:58 am
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 Hi,

Been thinking, would it be acceptable to square in an area with treated
2x12's and stakes the size of the needed pole barn/garage. Then level
inside that area with gravel. Then as I get money for posts drilling
for posts outside the 2x12's and installing them? If the 2x12's are
square I am guessing the posts would have to be square then too.

I am just trying to do this in sequences that I can do a little at a
time until I can get additional funds.

Thanks for all your help!


Posted by Fred R on March 16, 2006, 9:56 am
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 stryped wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Been thinking, would it be acceptable to square in an area with treated
> 2x12's and stakes the size of the needed pole barn/garage. Then level
> inside that area with gravel. Then as I get money for posts drilling
> for posts outside the 2x12's and installing them? If the 2x12's are
> square I am guessing the posts would have to be square then too.
>
> I am just trying to do this in sequences that I can do a little at a
> time until I can get additional funds.
>
> Thanks for all your help!
>

You could stockpile materials if you have the space, but you would
minimize costs if you have all the dirt-moving in one visit of the
backhoe (presuming you don't have your own.)

Also, the posts are usually inside the baseboards. You need to keep them
dry permanently.

Alternatively, accumulate the funds and have Morton do it!

--
Fred R
"It doesn't really take all kinds; there just *are* all kinds".
Drop TROU to email.

Posted by stryped on March 16, 2006, 10:06 am
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x-no-archive:yes

Is it necessary to move any dirt? My plan was to level with gravel
after it is framed in. There may be 7-10 inches difference between the
high and low sides. I dont have a backhoe or know someone with one.
Fred R wrote:
> stryped wrote:
> > Hi,
> >
> > Been thinking, would it be acceptable to square in an area with treated
> > 2x12's and stakes the size of the needed pole barn/garage. Then level
> > inside that area with gravel. Then as I get money for posts drilling
> > for posts outside the 2x12's and installing them? If the 2x12's are
> > square I am guessing the posts would have to be square then too.
> >
> > I am just trying to do this in sequences that I can do a little at a
> > time until I can get additional funds.
> >
> > Thanks for all your help!
> >
>
> You could stockpile materials if you have the space, but you would
> minimize costs if you have all the dirt-moving in one visit of the
> backhoe (presuming you don't have your own.)
>
> Also, the posts are usually inside the baseboards. You need to keep them
> dry permanently.
>
> Alternatively, accumulate the funds and have Morton do it!
>
> --
> Fred R
> "It doesn't really take all kinds; there just *are* all kinds".
> Drop TROU to email.


Posted by Lloyd E. Sponenburgh on March 16, 2006, 10:14 am
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> x-no-archive:yes
>
> Is it necessary to move any dirt? My plan was to level with gravel
> after it is framed in. There may be 7-10 inches difference between the
> high and low sides. I dont have a backhoe or know someone with one.

You'd better do some leveling if you intend to use loose gravel for the
floor. Gravel 'slumps', and will put pressure on the boards to the point
they'll spring outward some. The higher part of the pile will exert more
outward force than the lower parts.

The optimum solution there is to either have the gravel extend well outside
the walls, so it slumps outside the building, or to pour reinforced concrete
curbs to contain the gravel. In any case, the sub-grade MUST taper down
away from your walls to prevent water intrusion.

LLoyd



Posted by Fred R on March 16, 2006, 2:05 pm
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Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

>
> The optimum solution there is to either have the gravel extend well outside
> the walls, so it slumps outside the building, or to pour reinforced concrete
> curbs to contain the gravel. In any case, the sub-grade MUST taper down
> away from your walls to prevent water intrusion.
>
> LLoyd
>
>

LLoyd beat me to it but it bears reinforcing: graded drainage is
absolutely essential if you don't want your building to become
inadvertently 'portable' in only a few years. The other dirt-moving is
digging holes; having done them both by hand and by back-hoe-mounted
auger I can definitely say the auger is better!

--
Fred R
"It doesn't really take all kinds; there just *are* all kinds".
Drop TROU to email.
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

>
> The optimum solution there is to either have the gravel extend well outside
> the walls, so it slumps outside the building, or to pour reinforced concrete
> curbs to contain the gravel. In any case, the sub-grade MUST taper down
> away from your walls to prevent water intrusion.
>
> LLoyd
>
>

LLoyd beat me to it but it bears reinforcing: graded drainage is
absolutely essential if you don't want your building to become
inadvertently 'portable' in only a few years. The other dirt-moving is
digging holes; having done them both by hand and by back-hoe-mounted
auger I can definitely say the auger is better!

--
Fred R
"It doesn't really take all kinds; there just *are* all kinds".
Drop TROU to email.

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