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Posted by Joseph Gwinn on April 10, 2008, 9:06 am
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> >
>
> [ ... ]
>
> >> > TNMG has a central hole, and perhaps a complex shape, while the BXA-16N
> >> > was designed for a simple flat triangle with perpendicular sides.
> >>
> >> The BXA-16N has a flat screw which holds the anvil in place, and
> >> a clamp/chipbreaker which holds the insert in place. There is an
> >> alternate screw which has a cylindrical projection above the head if you
> >> really want to use the center hole -- but I haven't bothered using
> >> anything other than what came with the BXA-16N.
> >
> > OK.
>
> [ ... ]
>
> >> There are special shapes, such as the 55 degree diamond which
> >> does a better job of reaching into a narrow space, and can be set to
> >> both turn and face with the same setting -- just different faces of the
> >> insert. Some of these days I'll get a diamond holder to use with the
> >> PCD diamond holders which I already have (on non-ferrous metals only, of
> >> course).
> >
> > That raises a question: How do the triange inserts differ from the 80
> > degree inserts? I notice that Aloris offers holders for both, being the
> > 16 and 16N for triangles, and 12 and 12N for the 80-degree inserts. I
> > would guess that the 80 degree inserts are stronger.
>
> I would expect so. A bit more difficulty working in deep
> corners, but stronger for harder materials. Not likely to be something
> which you need for hobby metalworking.
OK. Much as I suspected. If triangles were too weak, they wouldn't
dominate the catalogs.
> Here is an example of a shank which would accept those inserts,
> but which is too big for our machines:
>
> ebay 380015167655
>
> but the photos will show you what the clamp is like on those -- which
> use the pin-head screws.
Yes. I see that the pin sticks up above the top of the insert in this
example, and would interfere if used in a holder intended for a simple
flat triangle insert.
> Beware that many have 1x1" square shanks and thus are poor
> choices for our machines. Look for 5/8" square shanks instead for our
> machines.
Or get the BXA-1S or BXA-2S holders, which accept 3/4" shanks.
> This one is closer, with a 3/4" shank -- which can be milled
> down to 5/8" on a horizontal mill. Not as sure about a vertical mill,
> however. Of course, none of these are the straight-ahead ones which I
> got with 100 inserts each some years ago. The photo shows the clamp
> clearly, the head of the pin-head screw, and the anvil under the insert.
> These were found with a search for:
>
> TNMG inserts carbide
>
> without bothering to specify the size.
I just did that search. Lots of inserts for sale, too. The sad thing
is that the insert codes are beginning to make sense to me.
Brothers Machinery, which is almost near me, also has boxes of inserts
for sale. As well as holders without end.
> >> Other coatings are better to avoid gumming up with soft aluminum
> >> alloys. Stick with something like 6061T6 and you should not need them.
> >> Lubricate the 6061T6 with kerosene or WD-40 (whichever is more
> >> convenient to apply. ;-)
> >
> > On the mill and drill press, Rustlick WS-5050 works very well.
>
> Good to know.
>
> >> The BXA-16N and the inserts which I suggested are a good general
> >> purpose selection. Go with that -- and worry about others when you
> >> discover that you need them -- such as when turning a lot of already
> >> hardened 4140 for example. :-)
> >
> > OK. Although I may also get the alternate screw with pin.
>
> O.K. But you really don't need it with the chipbreaker style
> clamp that the BXA-16N uses. Try the holder and inserts first and only
> if you have troubles bother to order the pin-head screws (whatever the
> actual vendors call them. :-)
OK.
Joe Gwinn
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