Re: Clausing 5914 chatter -- solved at last

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Subject Author Date
Re: Clausing 5914 chatter -- solved at last Gunner Asch 04-06-2008
Posted by Gunner Asch on April 6, 2008, 3:18 am
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On Sat, 05 Apr 2008 16:39:16 -0400, Joseph Gwinn

>>
>> I was initially taught in junior high metal class to part at a slow
>> speed but later in high school machining class where the instructor was
>> a machinist, he said to run at the recommended speed for the material if
>> the machine could cope as parting was a cutting operation like any
>> other. Still works for me. The junior high lathe was a little Southbend
>> so needed running slow.
>
>It's true that parting off is still a cutting operation, but one
>difference is that a parting tool is cutting over a broad area, rather
>than close to a point or small radius.
>
>The other issue was that because the toolpost rotated, one whole side
>edge of the T-blade was attempting to cut, not just the tip.


Thats very common with quick change tool holders. leverage with the
tool hanging out to the left/right of cross slide centerling.

Tighten up the tool post, or put a bit of yellow legal pad paper
under it.

And learn to sharpen/setup/line up your cutting tools better. A cut
shouldnt take all that much pressure to accomplish unless they are
dull, or you are feeding way too fast

Gunner



"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the shit out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

Posted by Joseph Gwinn on April 8, 2008, 9:10 am
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> On Mon, 07 Apr 2008 22:16:46 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
>
> >
> >> On Sun, 06 Apr 2008 21:43:27 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
> >>
> >> >> >
[snip]
> >> >
> >> >I use a water-oil emulsion for cutting, and I worried that the water
> >> >would turn the paper into mush. Maybe the paper needs to be soaked in
> >> >way oil first.
> >>
> >> It won't turn into mush when its clamped under the tool holder.
> >> >
> >> >I was also thinking of using electrical "fishpaper" (vulcanized fiber)
> >> >in place of the legal paper. Fishpaper is *very* strong. Fish are not
> >> >involved; I have no idea where the name came from.
> >> >
> >> >I've also been thinking that the paper might benefit from being sealed
> >> >with shellac. Application would be by dipping in shellac diluted with
> >> >alcohol.
> >> >
> >> Try the yellow paper. Ill send you a dollar to buy a pad at the 99c
> >> store. <G>
> >
> >The issue is that I don't want to have to keep replacing the "gasket",
> >mainly because it may become a nuisance when everything is coated with
> >baby blue emulsion.
>
> You won't have to replace it very often.

I will see how it goes in my shop.


> >> >> >> And learn to sharpen/setup/line up your cutting tools better. A cut
> >> >> >> shouldn't take all that much pressure to accomplish unless they are
> >> >> >> dull, or you are feeding way too fast
> >> >> >
> >> >> >It was not quite razor sharp, but it wasn't dull either. But it won't
> >> >> >hurt to sharpen it.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >I suspect the real problem (aside from the toolpost rotating) was that
> >> >> >I
> >> >> >was simply pushing too hard, as I learn the feel of cutting off. This
> >> >> >is the part that must be learned by using the lathe, that cannot be
> >> >> >learned by reading books.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >Joe Gwinn
> >> >>
> >> >> Good thinking and sorta echoed my own thoughts. It takes time to get
> >> >> a feel, or read the recommended speeds and feeds and set your travel
> >> >> accordingly.
> >> >>
> >> >> I tend to make blue chips..push harder than most might, but I know my
> >> >> machines, my tooling.
> >> >
> >> >Well, I've been managing pale yellow to brown chips mostly, and did
> >> >manage blue while doing roughing-cut experiments. This while using
> >> >brushed-on black sulfur oil. But since I started using the sprayed
> >> >water-oil emulsion, things have been boringly cool, and all chips are
> >> >shiney. But the emulsion is baby blue.
> >> >
> >> >Joe Gwinn
> >>
> >>
> >> Black sulpher oil works good for pipe threading using dies, but not so
> >> great for lathe work. You have to thin it out a bit.
> >
> >And the best thinner is carbon tetrachloride, with trichloroethylene a
> >close second?
>
> No idea.
> I use only oil in the lathe, but proper lathe cutting oil, usually
> high sulfur, but much thinner. When I run low, I ask a customer for
> a few gallons.

I was kind of pulling your leg. Good luck getting either solvent,
although they would work well. And you would be *very* happy from the
solvent fumes. Till you passed out.

What kind of oil do you use, by make and model?

Joe Gwinn

Posted by Joseph Gwinn on April 8, 2008, 11:36 pm
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> On Tue, 08 Apr 2008 09:10:13 -0400, Joseph Gwinn
>
> >> >
> >> >And the best thinner is carbon tetrachloride, with trichloroethylene a
> >> >close second?
> >>
> >> No idea.
> >> I use only oil in the lathe, but proper lathe cutting oil, usually
> >> high sulfur, but much thinner. When I run low, I ask a customer for
> >> a few gallons.
> >
> >I was kind of pulling your leg.
>
> I figured <G>
>
> Good luck getting either solvent,
> >although they would work well. And you would be *very* happy from the
> >solvent fumes. Till you passed out.
> >
> >What kind of oil do you use, by make and model?
>
> Whatever I can scrounge from machine shops.
>
> A lot of it is Mobilmet Omicron, used mostly in screw machines for
> both cutting oil and lubricant. I think the new name is Mobilmet 404
>
> www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENINDMOMobilmet_Upsilon_Omicron_Nu.asp

Good to know. I've been using black sulfur oil from Home depot, under
various brands. This is sold in the plumbing dept, for thread cutting.


> I think the last time I got a couple gallons of something a very
> bright red, much like ATF, that smells like ATF, from a Swiss house,
> and dumped it into the coolant tank with whatever was in there. Works
> fine. I didnt bother looking at the drum, but will next time Im in
> there. Or I can call them if you need some info.

Thanks. This was more from curiosity than need. I don't want to run
all oil, because of the mess it will make. So, I'm running the Rustlick
WS-5050 oil emulsion, the baby blue stuff. It seems to work well, and
doesn't seem to rust the machines, even where some emulsion got under
something.

Mobilmet S-122 is sold by MSC, and is also an oil-water emulsion.
Wonder how it compares to WS-5050. Probably no dramatic differences.

Joe Gwinn

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