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Posted by ED on June 20, 2008, 1:02 pm
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On Fri, 20 Jun 2008 11:47:08 -0500, Ignoramus7021
>>
>> Ignoramus7021 wrote:
>>>
<------------snipped----------->
>Then use a big pipe cheater.
I would do the grunt work off the flywheel end, not
the pully bolt......
ED
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Posted by Gunner on June 21, 2008, 1:15 am
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wrote:
>On Fri, 20 Jun 2008 11:47:08 -0500, Ignoramus7021
>
>>>
>>> Ignoramus7021 wrote:
>>>>
><------------snipped----------->
>
>
>
>
>>Then use a big pipe cheater.
>
> I would do the grunt work off the flywheel end, not
>the pully bolt......
>ED
Which means pulling the genny completly out of the machine.
Gunner
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Posted by ED on June 21, 2008, 11:05 am
Please log in for more thread options On Fri, 20 Jun 2008 22:15:54 -0700, Gunner
>wrote:
>
>>On Fri, 20 Jun 2008 11:47:08 -0500, Ignoramus7021
>>
>>>>
>>>> Ignoramus7021 wrote:
>>>>>
>><------------snipped----------->
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>Then use a big pipe cheater.
>>
>> I would do the grunt work off the flywheel end, not
>>the pully bolt......
>>ED
>
>
>Which means pulling the genny completly out of the machine.
>
>Gunner
Pull the starter and carefull bar the ring gear with
pry bar. Reef too much on the pully bolt and twist it
off.....seen it happen.
My 2cents worth----pull the engine and get on with it.. And
yea I've been there and know how much fun that is on a welder.
Hopefully the snake oil will charm the stick out ... ED
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Posted by Carl Ijames on June 21, 2008, 10:53 am
Please log in for more thread options I've never tried this but always wondered if it would work. Get one of
those leakdown tester setups where you apply compressed air through the
spark plug hole. They also sell a simpler fitting without the gauges to
hold the valves closed while you replace the springs with the head still
on, or you could adapt a compression tester, or whatever :-). Anyway,
peak combustion chamber pressures on a car engine are near 1000 psi so
100-175 psi of air shouldn't hurt anything even on a low compression low
performance engine (heck, that's what the air compressor piston sees
every stroke :-)). Pull the rockers or pushrods or whatever to keep
both valves shut. If the bore is 3" then that's 7.1 sq. inches and 150
psi gives 1060 pounds of force on that piston - way, way more than you
could get from the crankshaft bolt. May need to go around and give each
piston a shove, if hitting the first one doesn't do it. Anyway, I'd try
this before the big cheater pipe on the crank bolt.
--
Regards,
Carl Ijames carl dott ijames aat verizon dott net
(remove nospm or make the obvious changes before replying)
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Posted by Leon Fisk on June 21, 2008, 1:59 pm
Please log in for more thread options On Sat, 21 Jun 2008 14:53:22 GMT, "Carl Ijames"
>I've never tried this but always wondered if it would work. Get one of
>those leakdown tester setups where you apply compressed air through the
>spark plug hole. They also sell a simpler fitting without the gauges to
>hold the valves closed while you replace the springs with the head still
>on, or you could adapt a compression tester, or whatever :-). Anyway,
>peak combustion chamber pressures on a car engine are near 1000 psi so
>100-175 psi of air shouldn't hurt anything even on a low compression low
>performance engine (heck, that's what the air compressor piston sees
>every stroke :-)). Pull the rockers or pushrods or whatever to keep
>both valves shut. If the bore is 3" then that's 7.1 sq. inches and 150
>psi gives 1060 pounds of force on that piston - way, way more than you
>could get from the crankshaft bolt. May need to go around and give each
>piston a shove, if hitting the first one doesn't do it. Anyway, I'd try
>this before the big cheater pipe on the crank bolt.
I was having similar thoughts...
Take out spark plug, squirt/flow in some propane, put spark
plug back and manually spark plug.
Should make for one good pop. If the valves are mostly
closed should get some movement.
--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email
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>> Ignoramus7021 wrote: