Re: Prepping and painting angle iron

General Metalworking - All aspects of working with metal. 

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Subject Author Date
Re: Prepping and painting angle iron Larry Jaques 07-08-2008
Posted by Larry Jaques on July 8, 2008, 9:04 am
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On Mon, 07 Jul 2008 16:35:09 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Grant

>Edward A. Falk wrote:

>> That looks like my working plan now. My problem is the prep work;
>> I don't really have a place or the time to go and wipe down every
>> foot of angle with an acetone-soaked rag. I guess I'll call the
>> powdercoating guy back and ask what he'd charge to just prep the
>> steel and give it back to me.

Don't have a place to wipe down a welded trailer?!? What's wrong with
the place the trailer is sitting right now, Ed?


>What's the matter with your steel? Does it have oil on it? Is it just a little
>bit of normal rust/scale? You don't have to kill yourself .. it would be really
>easy to clean the stock before you weld everything up, then just blow it off
>and paint it.
>
>You are seriously pole-vaulting over mouse turds!

I disagree. Steel is usually covered in combinations of oil, rust,
scale, and crud. It needs to be wirebrushed and cleaned well before
any paint or primer goes on. But even a hand-held wire brush will do
the trick, and a garage (with -no- pilot lights), driveway, or gravel
lot is good enough for the wipedown.

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VIRTUE...is its own punishment
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Posted by Larry Jaques on July 9, 2008, 7:01 am
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On Wed, 9 Jul 2008 01:22:20 +0000 (UTC), with neither quill nor qualm,
falk@green.rahul.net (Edward A. Falk) quickly quoth:

>>On Mon, 07 Jul 2008 16:35:09 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Grant
>>
>>>Edward A. Falk wrote:
>>
>>>> That looks like my working plan now. My problem is the prep work;
>>>> I don't really have a place or the time to go and wipe down every
>>>> foot of angle with an acetone-soaked rag. I guess I'll call the
>>>> powdercoating guy back and ask what he'd charge to just prep the
>>>> steel and give it back to me.
>>
>>Don't have a place to wipe down a welded trailer?!? What's wrong with
>>the place the trailer is sitting right now, Ed?
>
>It's a relatively crowded residential neighborhood. However, I've
>talked to the neighbor who'll most likely be affected, and he's ok
>with it.

That's good.

If you use acetone ($12/gal locally) it'll be dry before your rag gets
3 feet from where it cleaned. The whole trailer shouldn't take more
than 15 minutes to wipe down, so your neighbors won't be chemically
abused for long.

----------------------------------
VIRTUE...is its own punishment
==================================

Posted by Ed Huntress on July 9, 2008, 12:15 pm
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>>
>>If you use acetone ($12/gal locally) it'll be dry before your rag gets
>>3 feet from where it cleaned. The whole trailer shouldn't take more
>>than 15 minutes to wipe down, so your neighbors won't be chemically
>>abused for long.
>
> Isn't acetone horribly toxic? My neighbor (he builds cars) suggested I
> use lacquer thinner. Or do I have an unreasonable fear of the stuff?

Lacquer thinner is much more toxic than acetone. Lacquer thinner comes in
several varieties -- the "hottest" is vicious stuff. The mildest is not.

How solvents will work under the paint depends on the type of paint you're
using. I see kerosene has been recommended. With some paints, kerosene will
just about guarentee paint failure. With others, it makes no difference.

Commerical acetone is mostly recycled from high-volume industrial uses. It
often has non-volatile components in it, although in extremely small
amounts. There are some paints for which it really isn't the best cleaning
solvent. In general, though, it will work fine for prepaint cleaning with
most paints you're likely to use.

--
Ed Huntress



Posted by DoN. Nichols on July 9, 2008, 10:41 pm
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>>
>>If you use acetone ($12/gal locally) it'll be dry before your rag gets
>>3 feet from where it cleaned. The whole trailer shouldn't take more
>>than 15 minutes to wipe down, so your neighbors won't be chemically
>>abused for long.
>
> Isn't acetone horribly toxic? My neighbor (he builds cars) suggested I
> use lacquer thinner. Or do I have an unreasonable fear of the stuff?

        If it were horribly toxic, I would have died years ago.

        You do want to protect your hands (use nitrile gloves, not
latex). What it will do is remove the natural skin oils from your
hands, leaving them white and dry looking for a while.

        The latex gloves might well dissolve in Acetone, and the nitrile
are better at resisting snags and tears. (Aside from that, may health
professionals are developing allergies to latex.)

        Enjoy,
                DoN.

--
        (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Posted by Larry Jaques on July 9, 2008, 11:08 pm
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On Wed, 9 Jul 2008 16:00:02 +0000 (UTC), with neither quill nor qualm,
falk@green.rahul.net (Edward A. Falk) quickly quoth:

>>
>>If you use acetone ($12/gal locally) it'll be dry before your rag gets
>>3 feet from where it cleaned. The whole trailer shouldn't take more
>>than 15 minutes to wipe down, so your neighbors won't be chemically
>>abused for long.
>
>Isn't acetone horribly toxic? My neighbor (he builds cars) suggested I
>use lacquer thinner. Or do I have an unreasonable fear of the stuff?

Hell, it's all toxic. I adore lacquer thinner and use it by the gallon
on my woodwork before finishing. It's just as good on metal. Use
either and stay upwind, wear a respirator with organic vapor filters,
or both. I keep one of these in my truck (with extra dust filters) and
one in the shop. http://tinyurl.com/6qgazm

Also, don't forget to wear thick nitrile or rubber gloves and goggles
during the wipe. Both eyes, both lungs, and all your fingers are a
blessing in later life.

LJ--happy with 2/2/10. (OK, 2/2/8/2 for you anal types out there.)

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VIRTUE...is its own punishment
==================================

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