|
Posted by DoN. Nichols on August 2, 2008, 11:09 pm
Please log in for more thread options
[ ... ]
> Well , the taper attachment is coming along nicely . Got the mount
> brackets and base plate mostly made , got the guide rod (3/4" O1 drill rod)
> and the rod slider fit to each other , just needs a minor lapping for final
> fit . Having a mill has made this a bunch easier !
I'll bet.
> Questions , how are they usually calibrated , inches per foot or per inch
> ? I have an adjustment screw arrangement calculated that will give me a
> taper of .005" per inch per side per (adjustment screw) revolution , or I
> can set it up for a per-foot basis .
Hmm ... Mine has two calibrations -- one end is degrees, and the
other is inches per foot.
> My other question , how long is long
> enough ? I'm currently setting it up for an overall (lengthwise) travel of
> about 16 inches more or less . That's a bit longer than most of the ones I
> looked at for this size lathe while researching . I'm concerned about flex
> in the guide rod ... and hope that 3/4" is stiff enough for this length .
Mine is something like 10" travel IIRC. Do you really *need*
more for what you are doing? And at that size, the bar is about 1-1/2
wide (the stress direction), perhaps 3/4" tall, pivoted at the center,
and clamped down at both ends, so the effective length between supports
is closer to 5 inches. Based on that, a 3/4" round rod will be *way* to
flexible -- even at the 10" length which mine has, and a lot worse on
the 16" which you are planning.
There is a block which straddles the bar with a fairly
respectable surface area.
If you want to see what mine looks like, check out:
http://www.d-and-d.com/misc/MANUALS/CLAUSING/Taper-attachment-7515.pdf
Download it and print it, since it is a scan of an old manual from
Clausing, and it takes forever to display -- so just wait once for your
printer to handle it, and then you can turn pages quickly. :-) It is a
total of four pages.
Note that I only use the calibrations on the ends for getting
close. Then I move the carriage a precise distance along the bed while
measuring the cross-slide travel -- while pulling back on the toolpost
to take the slack out of everything. This one came from an eBay
auction with only a guess that it would fit -- and a few parts which I
had to make once I figured out how it worked. If I had had the model
number (data plate fully worn off) I could have asked them for the
manual much sooner. :-)
> This project is driven by my need for adjustable laps to recondition
> bearing races (loose rollers with thrust washers ... what fun !) in a 1939
> Harley I'm rebuilding . They just don't make the tools I need ... for less
> than a Sultan's Ransom . And some they just plain don't make anymore .
So -- how long a taper do you need to make to produce these?
Let that guide you -- with a bit of extra travel to make the setup
measurements good. If you only need say three or four inches of taper,
go for perhaps 6" or maybe 8".
Good Luck,
DoN.
--
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
|
|
Posted by Terry Coombs on August 3, 2008, 8:32 am
Please log in for more thread options
DoN. Nichols wrote:
>
> [ ... ]
>
>> Well , the taper attachment is coming along nicely . Got the mount
>> brackets and base plate mostly made , got the guide rod (3/4" O1
>> drill rod) and the rod slider fit to each other , just needs a minor
>> lapping for final fit . Having a mill has made this a bunch easier !
>
> I'll bet.
>
>> Questions , how are they usually calibrated , inches per foot or
>> per inch ? I have an adjustment screw arrangement calculated that
>> will give me a taper of .005" per inch per side per (adjustment
>> screw) revolution , or I can set it up for a per-foot basis .
>
> Hmm ... Mine has two calibrations -- one end is degrees, and the
> other is inches per foot.
>
>> My other question , how long is
>> long enough ? I'm currently setting it up for an overall
>> (lengthwise) travel of about 16 inches more or less . That's a bit
>> longer than most of the ones I looked at for this size lathe while
>> researching . I'm concerned about flex in the guide rod ... and hope
>> that 3/4" is stiff enough for this length .
>
> Mine is something like 10" travel IIRC. Do you really *need*
> more for what you are doing? And at that size, the bar is about 1-1/2
> wide (the stress direction), perhaps 3/4" tall, pivoted at the center,
> and clamped down at both ends, so the effective length between
> supports is closer to 5 inches. Based on that, a 3/4" round rod will
> be *way* to flexible -- even at the 10" length which mine has, and a
> lot worse on the 16" which you are planning.
>
> There is a block which straddles the bar with a fairly
> respectable surface area.
>
> If you want to see what mine looks like, check out:
>
> http://www.d-and-d.com/misc/MANUALS/CLAUSING/Taper-attachment-7515.pdf
>
> Download it and print it, since it is a scan of an old manual from
> Clausing, and it takes forever to display -- so just wait once for
> your printer to handle it, and then you can turn pages quickly. :-)
> It is a total of four pages.
>
> Note that I only use the calibrations on the ends for getting
> close. Then I move the carriage a precise distance along the bed
> while measuring the cross-slide travel -- while pulling back on the
> toolpost to take the slack out of everything. This one came from an
> eBay auction with only a guess that it would fit -- and a few parts
> which I had to make once I figured out how it worked. If I had had
> the model number (data plate fully worn off) I could have asked them
> for the manual much sooner. :-)
>
>> This project is driven by my need for adjustable laps to
>> recondition bearing races (loose rollers with thrust washers ...
>> what fun !) in a 1939 Harley I'm rebuilding . They just don't make
>> the tools I need ... for less than a Sultan's Ransom . And some they
>> just plain don't make anymore .
>
> So -- how long a taper do you need to make to produce these?
> Let that guide you -- with a bit of extra travel to make the setup
> measurements good. If you only need say three or four inches of
> taper, go for perhaps 6" or maybe 8".
>
> Good Luck,
> DoN.
Thank you very much Don! This is exactly the kind of info I needed . I
have a habit of thinking ahead , and figure some day I will need a longer
taper than the 3" ones I'm working with now , so I will keep the length .
But the 3/4" rod is gone ... and instead , I think I have a piece of flat
bar about 3" wide that can be adapted for this use .
Everything else about this thing is very rigid in a horizontal direction .
I got the round bar idea from a posting of plans for an attachment published
in PopSci or maybe it was PopMech (from the sixties , IIRC) . After printing
and looking at yours , I can see that it more closely resembles the one sold
by Logan , and so I will modify my design .
If I keep learning and gaining experience , someday I will no longer be ...
--
Snag
wannabe machinist
|
|
Posted by DoN. Nichols on August 4, 2008, 9:40 pm
Please log in for more thread options > DoN. Nichols wrote:
[ ... ]
>>> My other question , how long is
>>> long enough ? I'm currently setting it up for an overall
>>> (lengthwise) travel of about 16 inches more or less . That's a bit
>>> longer than most of the ones I looked at for this size lathe while
>>> researching . I'm concerned about flex in the guide rod ... and hope
>>> that 3/4" is stiff enough for this length .
>>
>> Mine is something like 10" travel IIRC. Do you really *need*
[ ... ]
>> If you want to see what mine looks like, check out:
>>
>> http://www.d-and-d.com/misc/MANUALS/CLAUSING/Taper-attachment-7515.pdf
>>
>> Download it and print it, since it is a scan of an old manual from
[ ... ]
> Thank you very much Don! This is exactly the kind of info I needed . I
> have a habit of thinking ahead , and figure some day I will need a longer
> taper than the 3" ones I'm working with now , so I will keep the length .
> But the 3/4" rod is gone ... and instead , I think I have a piece of flat
> bar about 3" wide that can be adapted for this use .
3" wide sounds good for a 16" long one. You might even get away
with 2-1/2" wide (perhaps you'll wind up there after finishing the bar,
depending on how rough it is now. :-)
> Everything else about this thing is very rigid in a horizontal direction .
> I got the round bar idea from a posting of plans for an attachment published
> in PopSci or maybe it was PopMech (from the sixties , IIRC) .
O.K. How big a lathe was that for? At a guess, something like
the AA 109 version of the 6" Craftsman -- not the somewhat more rigid
6x18" Atlas also markeded as Craftsman.
> After printing
> and looking at yours , I can see that it more closely resembles the one sold
> by Logan , and so I will modify my design .
My lathe is a 12x24 -- so it does not have enough length to do
too long a taper. The bed clamp is beside the tailstock with this
length bed for most cases. And it is a nice rigid lathe for its size,
so a rigid taper attachment makes sense too. In particular, the design
of the mount on the back of the carriage is quite rigid, and the
dovetail which mounts the bottom of the angle bar assembly is fairly
rigid too.
> If I keep learning and gaining experience , someday I will no longer be ...
Oops -- snipped your title. Sorry. But yes, doing everything
you can with your tools, and pushing what you know will slowly make the
transition.
Out of curiosity -- why do you put one or two spaces between the
end of a sentence and the period, or the end of a word and the comma?
Granted, it is a good thing to do when you're posting a URL or something
else where a '.' could be confusing if it were run against the end, but
it can confuse my spelling checker, which assumes that lines starting
with a '.' are special formatting commands. I know that you don't start
yours with periods, but if my system thinks the lines are too long and I
reformat them a period is likely to end up at the beginning of a line
sometimes. They seem to end at about 77 characters, which won't
trigger the newsreader's complaints until it is quoted two or three
times. :-)
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
|
|
Posted by Terry Coombs on August 4, 2008, 10:39 pm
Please log in for more thread options DoN. Nichols wrote:
>> DoN. Nichols wrote:
>
> [ ... ]
>
>>>> My other question , how long
>>>> is long enough ? I'm currently setting it up for an overall
>>>> (lengthwise) travel of about 16 inches more or less . That's a bit
>>>> longer than most of the ones I looked at for this size lathe while
>>>> researching . I'm concerned about flex in the guide rod ... and
>>>> hope that 3/4" is stiff enough for this length .
>>>
>>> Mine is something like 10" travel IIRC. Do you really *need*
>
> [ ... ]
>
>>> If you want to see what mine looks like, check out:
>>>
>>> http://www.d-and-d.com/misc/MANUALS/CLAUSING/Taper-attachment-7515.pdf
>>>
>>> Download it and print it, since it is a scan of an old manual from
>
> [ ... ]
>
>> Thank you very much Don! This is exactly the kind of info I needed
>> . I have a habit of thinking ahead , and figure some day I will need
>> a longer taper than the 3" ones I'm working with now , so I will
>> keep the length . But the 3/4" rod is gone ... and instead , I think
>> I have a piece of flat bar about 3" wide that can be adapted for
>> this use .
>
> 3" wide sounds good for a 16" long one. You might even get away
> with 2-1/2" wide (perhaps you'll wind up there after finishing the
> bar, depending on how rough it is now. :-)
Looks like I'll be running to the steel store friday afternoon , the piece
I have isn't going to work .
>
>> Everything else about this thing is very rigid in a horizontal
>> direction . I got the round bar idea from a posting of plans for an
>> attachment published in PopSci or maybe it was PopMech (from the
>> sixties , IIRC) .
>
> O.K. How big a lathe was that for? At a guess, something like
> the AA 109 version of the 6" Craftsman -- not the somewhat more rigid
> 6x18" Atlas also markeded as Craftsman.
I think it was a Craftsman they had this one on , though I don't remember
the model .
>
>> After
>> printing and looking at yours , I can see that it more closely
>> resembles the one sold by Logan , and so I will modify my design .
>
> My lathe is a 12x24 -- so it does not have enough length to do
> too long a taper. The bed clamp is beside the tailstock with this
> length bed for most cases. And it is a nice rigid lathe for its size,
> so a rigid taper attachment makes sense too. In particular, the
> design of the mount on the back of the carriage is quite rigid, and
> the dovetail which mounts the bottom of the angle bar assembly is
> fairly rigid too.
Mine's a 10X30 Wards/Logan . Quite a machine for a hobbyist . My mount is
a piece of 2 X2 X 3/16 angle , on two 3/4 X 1 1/2 X 2" blocks that clamp to
the back flat way .
>
>> If I keep learning and gaining experience , someday I will no longer
>> be ...
>
> Oops -- snipped your title. Sorry. But yes, doing everything
> you can with your tools, and pushing what you know will slowly make
> the transition.
>
> Out of curiosity -- why do you put one or two spaces between the
> end of a sentence and the period, or the end of a word and the comma?
> Granted, it is a good thing to do when you're posting a URL or
> something else where a '.' could be confusing if it were run against
> the end, but it can confuse my spelling checker, which assumes that
> lines starting with a '.' are special formatting commands. I know
> that you don't start yours with periods, but if my system thinks the
> lines are too long and I reformat them a period is likely to end up
> at the beginning of a line sometimes. They seem to end at about 77
> characters, which won't trigger the newsreader's complaints until it
> is quoted two or three times. :-)
>
> Enjoy,
> DoN.
I have no real reason for the spacing , just the way I've always done it .
As far as I know , the line wrap is set to the OE program's default settings
.
--
Snag
'90 Ultra "Strider"
'39 WLDD "Popcycle"
Buncha cars and a truck
|
|
Posted by DoN. Nichols on August 5, 2008, 12:21 am
Please log in for more thread options > DoN. Nichols wrote:
[ ... ]
>> 3" wide sounds good for a 16" long one. You might even get away
>> with 2-1/2" wide (perhaps you'll wind up there after finishing the
>> bar, depending on how rough it is now. :-)
>
> Looks like I'll be running to the steel store friday afternoon , the piece
> I have isn't going to work .
O.K.
[ ... ]
>> O.K. How big a lathe was that for? At a guess, something like
>> the AA 109 version of the 6" Craftsman -- not the somewhat more rigid
>> 6x18" Atlas also markeded as Craftsman.
>
> I think it was a Craftsman they had this one on , though I don't remember
> the model .
Probably the 6x18 Atlas, or the AA 109. Anything bigger would
be too strong for it.
[ ... ]
>> My lathe is a 12x24 -- so it does not have enough length to do
[ ... ]
> Mine's a 10X30 Wards/Logan . Quite a machine for a hobbyist . My mount is
> a piece of 2 X2 X 3/16 angle , on two 3/4 X 1 1/2 X 2" blocks that clamp to
> the back flat way .
Clamps to the bed flat? The one I have bolts to the back of the
carriage so it moves with the carriage. A clamp on the end of a rod
clamps to the back flat beside the tailstock so the base with the female
dovetail travels with the carriage, keeping the strong mounting close to
the centerline of the cross-slide leadscrew. The taper rod and its male
dovetail base are locked to the bed by the clamp at a proper position to
give you the coverage you need with the 10" total bar length.
If you're going to clamp a 16" one to the bed you'll need to do
it in two places either side of the carriage travel -- including any
needed overtravel.
[ ... ]
>> Out of curiosity -- why do you put one or two spaces between the
>> end of a sentence and the period, or the end of a word and the comma?
[ ... ]
> I have no real reason for the spacing , just the way I've always done it .
Even in school? (Of course, you were probably not typing your
papers in school, so it might not have been as obvious to your teachers.
> As far as I know , the line wrap is set to the OE program's default settings
> .
And there we wound up with a line starting with a '.' -- but the
quoting '>' kept it from being a problem to my spelling checker.
O.K. The lines are a little longer than the suggested 72
characters to allow for more levels of quoting, but within reason.
Nobody ever expects Microsoft to follow standards from outside
Microsoft. :-(
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
|
| Similar Threads | Posted | | Re: Taper attachment questions | August 3, 2008, 8:17 am |
| Making taper attachment for lathe - what range of taper? | August 28, 2006, 8:33 am |
| TAPER ATTACHMENT | February 10, 2007, 4:50 am |
| shank adapter, extension rod, button bit, thread bit,taper bit, taper rod, drill rod, drill bit, corss bit, chisel bit, DTH hammer drilling ,rock drill, drill tube, casing shoe, drilling tool, core bit, core barrel, ODEX, TUBEX, quarrying,mining equipment | September 8, 2006, 2:22 am |
| Re: Getting An Enclosed Trailer...Questions, Questions, Questions | December 21, 2007, 12:06 am |
| BP horizontal attachment | September 21, 2007, 1:41 pm |
| Gear Hobbing Attachment Pix | April 23, 2007, 12:00 pm |
| Use of a bridgeport shaper attachment | August 8, 2007, 8:09 am |
| Arbor Press attachment | August 31, 2007, 7:37 am |
| Re: Can anyone identify this Bridgeport?? - 1 attachment (1/2) | March 8, 2008, 5:37 pm |
|
|
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap
> brackets and base plate mostly made , got the guide rod (3/4" O1 drill rod)
> and the rod slider fit to each other , just needs a minor lapping for final
> fit . Having a mill has made this a bunch easier !