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Shop A/C solutions... Proctologically Violated©® 04-21-2006
Posted by Dave Lyon on April 21, 2006, 12:22 pm
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> That would be self-defeating. You'd be introducing hot air and
> moisture into the air which would then have to be removed by the A/C


Hot air? How does an evaporative unit add hot air to a room?



Posted by on April 21, 2006, 12:27 pm
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You need R.H. of at most 15% to get an evaporative cooler to work well.
I can get a drop of about 20 degrees with a portable unit I've got at
that R.H., at 20% and above all I get is hot, wet air. Really good
only for the Southwest where the humidity is low for most of the hot
season. It evaporates water into the incoming air, so it increases the
R.H. inside, so, yes, there's a good chance it'll start equipment
rusting. Insulation, paint, partitioning and/or an exhaust fan(s)
located high up will work better.

Stan


Posted by Larry Jaques on April 21, 2006, 4:23 pm
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On 21 Apr 2006 09:27:53 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
stans4@prolynx.com quickly quoth:

>You need R.H. of at most 15% to get an evaporative cooler to work well.
> I can get a drop of about 20 degrees with a portable unit I've got at
>that R.H., at 20% and above all I get is hot, wet air. Really good
>only for the Southwest where the humidity is low for most of the hot
>season. It evaporates water into the incoming air, so it increases the
>R.H. inside, so, yes, there's a good chance it'll start equipment
>rusting. Insulation, paint, partitioning and/or an exhaust fan(s)
>located high up will work better.

I worked installing a/c units on new pickups in Phoenix, AZ in '74.
The shop had 4 large swamp coolers. One hot and very dry day, it was
118F outside. The swampers held it down to a nice 108F inside. Ugh!


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