Spindle lubricant and speed questions

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Subject Author Date
Spindle lubricant and speed questions Keith Marshall 04-14-2008
Posted by Keith Marshall on April 14, 2008, 11:23 am
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I'm building a tubing and pipe notcher that uses a roughing end mill. It's
mostly a "can I do it" kind of project and I'm designing it as I go. I've
built a spindle for it using tapered roller bearings and races, much like
front wheel bearings on a car and now I'm trying to decide how best to
lubricate them. Should I pack them with grease like on a car? Or perhaps
white lithium grease? Or should I just use a lighter oil? I've built it in
such a way that they will have seals at each end and I could use the center
of the unit as a reservoir to hold motor oil or something similar but I
don't know which would be better. Any suggestions?

If it works as hoped it'll end up in a friends shop and his workers will not
be gentle with it and I doubt they'd ever think about checking oil levels,
etc. so I need it to be as maintenance free and idiot proof as possible.

Also, assuming I'll usually be using a 1.5" mill but planned it so that
different sizes up to 2" can be used for different sized tubing what would
you recommend for a fixed spindle speed?
Best Regards,
Keith Marshall
tooladdict@progressivelogic.com

"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"




Posted by Ned Simmons on April 14, 2008, 11:58 am
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On Mon, 14 Apr 2008 11:23:48 -0400, "Keith Marshall"

>I'm building a tubing and pipe notcher that uses a roughing end mill. It's
>mostly a "can I do it" kind of project and I'm designing it as I go. I've
>built a spindle for it using tapered roller bearings and races, much like
>front wheel bearings on a car and now I'm trying to decide how best to
>lubricate them. Should I pack them with grease like on a car? Or perhaps
>white lithium grease? Or should I just use a lighter oil? I've built it in
>such a way that they will have seals at each end and I could use the center
>of the unit as a reservoir to hold motor oil or something similar but I
>don't know which would be better. Any suggestions?
>
>If it works as hoped it'll end up in a friends shop and his workers will not
>be gentle with it and I doubt they'd ever think about checking oil levels,
>etc. so I need it to be as maintenance free and idiot proof as possible.
>
>Also, assuming I'll usually be using a 1.5" mill but planned it so that
>different sizes up to 2" can be used for different sized tubing what would
>you recommend for a fixed spindle speed?

I "invented" (independently of countless others, I'm sure) that
technique about 30 years ago for notching SS tube for sailboat bow
rails. I always intended to build a dedicated machine like you're
planning to avoid tying up a Bridgeport, but never got to it.

Run slow with a cutter with as many teeth as you can find. We used a 6
flute for 1 x .083 tube. I'd plan on no more than 100RPM for a 2"
diameter in steel. Or experiment on a BP to see what speed works best
for you.

Wheel bearing grease will be more than adequate at the speed you'll be
using.

--
Ned Simmons

Posted by Keith Marshall on April 14, 2008, 10:27 pm
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>>I "invented" (independently of countless others, I'm sure) that
technique about 30 years ago for notching SS tube for sailboat bow
rails. I always intended to build a dedicated machine like you're
planning to avoid tying up a Bridgeport, but never got to it. <<

Yep, I know a guy that used to convert old lathes into notchers for friends
many years ago.

>>Run slow with a cutter with as many teeth as you can find. We used a 6
flute for 1 x .083 tube.<<

For my first attempt I found a bin full of used (but still in excellent
condition) 1.5" 6-flute roughing mills at the local scrap metal dealer so
I'll play around with them to prove it works. I bought 4 at $.50 a pound
and wish I'd bought a few more. They had a 4' x 4' x 3' high bin completely
full of them.

>>I'd plan on no more than 100RPM for a 2" diameter in steel. Or experiment
>>on a BP to see what speed works best for you.<<

I don't have access to a BP so I've been looking at the RPM of core drills
and magnetic base drills. I'm leaning toward 150 to 200 RPM at this point.
I think the last mag drill I looked at was fixed at 240 RPM with a max cut
of 2".

>>Wheel bearing grease will be more than adequate at the speed you'll be
using.<<

Thanks! It'll certainly be the easiest option!

Thanks for the great suggestions! I was fraid no one would see my message
in the middle of all the garbage you have to wade through lately. :-(

Best Regards,
Keith Marshall
tooladdict@progressivelogic.com

"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"


> On Mon, 14 Apr 2008 11:23:48 -0400, "Keith Marshall"
>
>>I'm building a tubing and pipe notcher that uses a roughing end mill.
>>It's
>>mostly a "can I do it" kind of project and I'm designing it as I go. I've
>>built a spindle for it using tapered roller bearings and races, much like
>>front wheel bearings on a car and now I'm trying to decide how best to
>>lubricate them. Should I pack them with grease like on a car? Or perhaps
>>white lithium grease? Or should I just use a lighter oil? I've built it
>>in
>>such a way that they will have seals at each end and I could use the
>>center
>>of the unit as a reservoir to hold motor oil or something similar but I
>>don't know which would be better. Any suggestions?
>>
>>If it works as hoped it'll end up in a friends shop and his workers will
>>not
>>be gentle with it and I doubt they'd ever think about checking oil levels,
>>etc. so I need it to be as maintenance free and idiot proof as possible.
>>
>>Also, assuming I'll usually be using a 1.5" mill but planned it so that
>>different sizes up to 2" can be used for different sized tubing what would
>>you recommend for a fixed spindle speed?
>
> I "invented" (independently of countless others, I'm sure) that
> technique about 30 years ago for notching SS tube for sailboat bow
> rails. I always intended to build a dedicated machine like you're
> planning to avoid tying up a Bridgeport, but never got to it.
>
> Run slow with a cutter with as many teeth as you can find. We used a 6
> flute for 1 x .083 tube. I'd plan on no more than 100RPM for a 2"
> diameter in steel. Or experiment on a BP to see what speed works best
> for you.
>
> Wheel bearing grease will be more than adequate at the speed you'll be
> using.
>
> --
> Ned Simmons



Posted by RoyJ on April 14, 2008, 1:01 pm
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I'd pack them the same as a car wheel bearing using a high quality wheel
bearing grease. You could put in a zerk fitting, give it a few shots of
the grease gun occasionaly. Expect to tear down, clean, and regrease
every thousand operating hours.

Having tried this, be sure you use a spiral roughing mill with fine
teeth. A standard 2 or 4 flute mill is not the way to go, chatters
unbelievably. Speed should be a few hundred rpm, variable speed would be
nice.

Keith Marshall wrote:
> I'm building a tubing and pipe notcher that uses a roughing end mill. It's
> mostly a "can I do it" kind of project and I'm designing it as I go. I've
> built a spindle for it using tapered roller bearings and races, much like
> front wheel bearings on a car and now I'm trying to decide how best to
> lubricate them. Should I pack them with grease like on a car? Or perhaps
> white lithium grease? Or should I just use a lighter oil? I've built it in
> such a way that they will have seals at each end and I could use the center
> of the unit as a reservoir to hold motor oil or something similar but I
> don't know which would be better. Any suggestions?
>
> If it works as hoped it'll end up in a friends shop and his workers will not
> be gentle with it and I doubt they'd ever think about checking oil levels,
> etc. so I need it to be as maintenance free and idiot proof as possible.
>
> Also, assuming I'll usually be using a 1.5" mill but planned it so that
> different sizes up to 2" can be used for different sized tubing what would
> you recommend for a fixed spindle speed?
> Best Regards,
> Keith Marshall
> tooladdict@progressivelogic.com
>
> "I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"
>
>
>

Posted by Keith Marshall on April 14, 2008, 10:31 pm
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>>I'd pack them the same as a car wheel bearing using a high quality wheel
bearing grease. You could put in a zerk fitting, give it a few shots of
the grease gun occasionaly. Expect to tear down, clean, and regrease
every thousand operating hours.<<

You're the 2nd one to tell me wheel bearing grease so I'm convinced!

>>Having tried this, be sure you use a spiral roughing mill with fine
teeth. A standard 2 or 4 flute mill is not the way to go, chatters
unbelievably. Speed should be a few hundred rpm, variable speed would be
nice.<<

That's what I was figuring on using because it's what I've seen in all the
unit's I've seen for sale. In fact I have some I picked up at the local
scrap metal yard in excellent condition for testing purposes. The flute
length is only 2" so they'll only do a 90degree cut but that's fine to start
with. When I prove the unit works as hoped I can invest in one with 4" or
even 6" flutes.

Thanks for the suggestions!

Best Regards,
Keith Marshall
tooladdict@progressivelogic.com

"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"



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