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Posted by Terry Keeley on April 26, 2008, 11:18 am
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Someone wanted a follow up to this so here you go...
I tried a small bit at the temps. given and it did harden it quite a bit, it
could still be filed (barely) but was noticeably stiffer. Problem is that
it warped the thin (0.030") sheet slightly, which isn't good for the
application.
Any idea how I can keep thin sheet flat during the process?
ps: Didn't use the SS bags, there was a layer of white oxide before the
quench and the finished part came out dull, but that's OK.
> Anyone?
>
>
>> Thanks for the replys!
>>
>> I have some of those SS bags for heat-treating but didn't have much luck
>> last time tried to use them, was concerned about the part cooling while
>> I opened the bag to get it to quench (at 1650F!).
>>
>> Anyone got any tips? Do you put a match in with the part to "burn" the
>> air inside?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>>
>>>> > Have some 0.030" 6Al-4V sheet I'd like to harden for my model boats,
>>>> > came
>>>> > across this, does it sound right?:
>>>>
>>>> > If the material is plate or strip, then the solutionize temperature
>>>> > is
>>>> > lowered to approximatly 1650F to 1675F. This is than followed by a
>>>> > water
>>>> > quench. The aging procedure is by artificial means by precipitation
>>>> > treatment at a temperature in the range of 900F to 1100F and a soak
>>>> > time
>>>> > at temperature of between 4 to 8 hours (depending on cross sectional
>>>> > thickness) It is critically important that the furnace hearth and
>>>> > walls be
>>>> > clean and free from foreign matter such as scale from steel
>>>> > treatment. In
>>>> > fact, do not use the furnace for process both steel and Ti alloys.
>>>>
>>>> The times and temperatures sound about right, but I know nothing about
>>>> the
>>>> cleanliness issue. If someone doesn't have an answer for you, ask
>>>> again, and
>>>> I'll look it up. I have the ASM book that covers the subject.
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Ed Huntress
>>>
>>> I don't know about the times and temperatures, but I know that work on
>>> Ti alloys at elevated temperatures demand scrupulous cleanliness.
>>> Most heat treating and welding of Ti alloys is done in inert
>>> atmospheres. They sell a stainless steel heat treating wrap that is
>>> used to prevent oxidation in the heat treating furnace. This might be
>>> a good product to try. I see it listed in nearly every major tool
>>> catalog.
>>
>>
>
>
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Posted by Ed Huntress on April 26, 2008, 11:43 am
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> Someone wanted a follow up to this so here you go...
>
> I tried a small bit at the temps. given and it did harden it quite a bit,
> it could still be filed (barely) but was noticeably stiffer.
When you say "stiffer," do you mean it acts like a stiffer spring, or that
it has more resistance to permanent bending? Titanium has some strange
properties but you shouldn't notice any difference in springiness (there is
some, but it's too small to detect without careful measurement). However, it
will show more resistance to taking a permanent bend.
> Problem is that it warped the thin (0.030") sheet slightly, which isn't
> good for the application.
>
> Any idea how I can keep thin sheet flat during the process?
That's always a problem when you quench thin sections of metal. There are
some methods. You might want to check with people who make custom knives.
They ought to know.
--
Ed Huntress
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Posted by Terry Keeley on April 26, 2008, 12:21 pm
Please log in for more thread options It resists bending a whole lot better, which is what I needed. Never
thought of the knife folks, would they use 6Al4V?
>
>> Someone wanted a follow up to this so here you go...
>>
>> I tried a small bit at the temps. given and it did harden it quite a bit,
>> it could still be filed (barely) but was noticeably stiffer.
>
> When you say "stiffer," do you mean it acts like a stiffer spring, or that
> it has more resistance to permanent bending? Titanium has some strange
> properties but you shouldn't notice any difference in springiness (there
> is some, but it's too small to detect without careful measurement).
> However, it will show more resistance to taking a permanent bend.
>
>> Problem is that it warped the thin (0.030") sheet slightly, which isn't
>> good for the application.
>>
>> Any idea how I can keep thin sheet flat during the process?
>
> That's always a problem when you quench thin sections of metal. There are
> some methods. You might want to check with people who make custom knives.
> They ought to know.
>
> --
> Ed Huntress
>
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Posted by woodworker88 on April 9, 2008, 4:20 pm
Please log in for more thread options > Thanks for the replys!
>
> I have some of those SS bags for heat-treating but didn't have much luck
> last time tried to use them, was concerned about the part cooling while I
> opened the bag to get it to quench (at 1650F!).
>
> Anyone got any tips? Do you put a match in with the part to "burn" the air
> inside?
I think you just quench everything. When I have seen it used, a tool
that looks like a window-screen spline tool and a J-roller have been
used to smooth the SS around the part, basically eliminating all the
air. The goal is to effectively "plate" the part in stainless so that
there is no Ti exposed to the furnace. You definitely would not want
to put a match inside because the carbon from the flame would be bad.
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