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Posted by Wayne on April 28, 2008, 5:48 pm
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wrote:
>
>> How'd you know this was a Cummins? Looks like 4 bolts off of the exhaust
>> manifold, a clamp in front and back. 2 of the bolts are in the back and
>> have to be gotten from underneath. They said removing is difficult only
>> because of accessability. They probabaly mounted the turbo prior to
>> putting the exhaust manifold.
>
> I drive an '03.5 RAM 3500 with the 305/555 HO CTD. <Grin>
>
> If you're *not* a member of the TDR site/fora then I'd strongly suggest
> that you visit their site: <http://www.turbodieselregister.com> and
> browse
> through the fora that apply to your model.
>
> Their quarterly magazine is full of good technical advice on all aspects
> of
> the care and BOMBing of the Cummins ISB engines.
>
> For the benefit of those unaware of the term, BOMB is an acronym for
> "Better Off Modified, Baby!".
>
> When a Cummins is BOMBed, especially for towing, an Exhaust Gas
> Temperature
> gauge is extremely highly recommended lest you fry the turbocharger.
>
> See? It's an elementary exercise in Logic. <grin>
>
> While my preference is for a pre-turbo installation, a post-turbo
> installation offers the advantage that any dust/swarf would simply be
> blown
> out the exhaust pipe since it would not pass through the turbocharger.
>
> Those with catalytic converters and/or particulate filters might have an
> issue with "stuff" collecting there so, if yours has either or both,
> disconnecting the exhaust pipe at the turbocharger before starting the
> engine and letting it run for a couple of minutes will be a simple step
> to
> clear the deritus. The pipe can, then, be re-attached as soon as it's
> cool
> enough to handle.
>
> BTW, while you're installing the EGT sensor and gauge, why not also
> install
> a Boost sensor and gauge as well? <GRIN>
>
I may look those up later. I'm getting what Banks recommended for
what I'm towing. The sensor is going to go wherever their directions
say. Diesels are new to me, but I've been learning.
I got the last of the (not ultra) low sulpher engines.
Methinks I'll get an automotive shop to do the removal/installation.
I'll do the drilling/tapping
Wayne D.
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Posted by RAM³ on April 29, 2008, 12:21 am
Please log in for more thread options
> wrote:
>
>>
>>> How'd you know this was a Cummins? Looks like 4 bolts off of the
>>> exhaust manifold, a clamp in front and back. 2 of the bolts are in
>>> the back and have to be gotten from underneath. They said removing
>>> is difficult only because of accessability. They probabaly mounted
>>> the turbo prior to putting the exhaust manifold.
>>
>> I drive an '03.5 RAM 3500 with the 305/555 HO CTD. <Grin>
>>
>> If you're *not* a member of the TDR site/fora then I'd strongly
>> suggest that you visit their site:
>> <http://www.turbodieselregister.com> and browse
>> through the fora that apply to your model.
>>
>> Their quarterly magazine is full of good technical advice on all
>> aspects of
>> the care and BOMBing of the Cummins ISB engines.
>>
>> For the benefit of those unaware of the term, BOMB is an acronym for
>> "Better Off Modified, Baby!".
>>
>> When a Cummins is BOMBed, especially for towing, an Exhaust Gas
>> Temperature
>> gauge is extremely highly recommended lest you fry the turbocharger.
>>
>> See? It's an elementary exercise in Logic. <grin>
>>
>> While my preference is for a pre-turbo installation, a post-turbo
>> installation offers the advantage that any dust/swarf would simply be
>> blown
>> out the exhaust pipe since it would not pass through the
>> turbocharger.
>>
>> Those with catalytic converters and/or particulate filters might have
>> an issue with "stuff" collecting there so, if yours has either or
>> both, disconnecting the exhaust pipe at the turbocharger before
>> starting the engine and letting it run for a couple of minutes will
>> be a simple step to
>> clear the deritus. The pipe can, then, be re-attached as soon as it's
>> cool
>> enough to handle.
>>
>> BTW, while you're installing the EGT sensor and gauge, why not also
>> install
>> a Boost sensor and gauge as well? <GRIN>
>>
>
> I may look those up later. I'm getting what Banks recommended for
> what I'm towing. The sensor is going to go wherever their directions
> say. Diesels are new to me, but I've been learning.
> I got the last of the (not ultra) low sulpher engines.
>
> Methinks I'll get an automotive shop to do the removal/installation.
> I'll do the drilling/tapping
>
> Wayne D.
>
You might want to have them do the drilling/tapping while they're at it.
That way, if something goes _wrong_, it'll be _their_ expense for the
replacement part(s). <grin>
FWIW, the Banks package is both overrated and overpriced - especially
when one considers that a "programmer" can provide the same (or better)
results for a fraction of the co$t and have the advantage that when you
take it in for warranty work you can simply reload the OEM programming.
This becomes important when a "fix" involves "flash"ing the Engine
Control Module [aka engine computer]. This way, when the technician looks
at the programming it'll be pure stock.
Re-programming only takes a few minutes and doesn't involve any hardware.
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Posted by syoung on April 25, 2008, 10:08 pm
Please log in for more thread options Wayne wrote:
> Since I'm going to be tapping into a big buck part and don't
> really have any experience tapping cast iron, I figure I'll
> just ask a few stupid questions.
>
> I'm tapping a 1/4 NPT hole into the exhaust section of a
> turbocharger. An EGT sensor will be put in there. The part
> is cast iron, about 1/4 thick. The directions are to remove
> the turbocharger, drill a 7/16 hole, then tap. The part
> that screws into the hole has a shoulder which is
> supposed to rest against the turbocharger.
>
> Alternately they say I can drill and tap the hole
> with the engine running. Once the drill bit goes
> goes through, the exhaust pressure is supposed to
> push any particles out. When drilling cast iron
> they say it is supposed to turn to dust. I'd
> be drilling from the top down.
>
> I have to get a tap since I don't have one that size.
> I assume HSS will be ok?
>
> It's supposed to be a pain to get the turbocharger out.
> But if it was out, I could finish the hole with a
> 7/16 HSS end mill. That I think, would give me a more
> round hole than drilling by hand under the hood.
> So I would think it would seal better that way.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Wayne D.
I'd save the removal grief & do this underhood. I'd probably use a total
of 3 different sized drill bits. Put a ring magnet like those in
speakers around the proposed hole to catch the swarf. You'd only allow a
very minimal amount of dust in your system.
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Posted by John Martin on April 26, 2008, 8:43 am
Please log in for more thread options >
> It's supposed to be a pain to get the turbocharger out.
> But if it was out, I could finish the hole with a
> 7/16 HSS end mill. That I think, would give me a more
> round hole than drilling by hand under the hood.
> So I would think it would seal better that way.
>
>>
> Wayne D.
No need to have the hole perfect. Also no great worries about tapping
hot and having the hole/threads change size when cool.
Why not? It's a tapered pipe thread. If 7/16" is the right drill
for that thread (and I don't have a chart handy), the large end of the
taper will be cut to greater than that. As to the hot vs. cool size,
just let the cast iron cool down before you install the part. It
won't thread in as deeply as it would have into a hot casting, but
that's all. If that's a problem, thread it deeper cold.
John Martin
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Posted by spaco on April 28, 2008, 10:50 am
Please log in for more thread options Just 2 comments:
1. In my experience, cast iron DOES "powder" when cut.
2. If you haven't tapped with a pipe tap before, just be sure to test
the hole as you tap it, so you don't tap too deep. I don't know the
exact specs on the holes, but some fittings vary in actual size. If you
tap too deep, the fitting can bottom out before it seals well.
Pete Stanaitis
--------------------
Wayne wrote:
> Since I'm going to be tapping into a big buck part and don't
> really have any experience tapping cast iron, I figure I'll
> just ask a few stupid questions.
>
> I'm tapping a 1/4 NPT hole into the exhaust section of a
> turbocharger. An EGT sensor will be put in there. The part
> is cast iron, about 1/4 thick. The directions are to remove
> the turbocharger, drill a 7/16 hole, then tap. The part
> that screws into the hole has a shoulder which is
> supposed to rest against the turbocharger.
>
> Alternately they say I can drill and tap the hole
> with the engine running. Once the drill bit goes
> goes through, the exhaust pressure is supposed to
> push any particles out. When drilling cast iron
> they say it is supposed to turn to dust. I'd
> be drilling from the top down.
>
> I have to get a tap since I don't have one that size.
> I assume HSS will be ok?
>
> It's supposed to be a pain to get the turbocharger out.
> But if it was out, I could finish the hole with a
> 7/16 HSS end mill. That I think, would give me a more
> round hole than drilling by hand under the hood.
> So I would think it would seal better that way.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Wayne D.
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