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Posted by Dave99 on April 13, 2008, 8:29 pm
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I recently discovered how to fix an issue with drilling that I was
having... I wanted to drill at a fairly slow speed in certain
materials and found that one type of bit worked best. Unfortunately,
they don't make that bit in letter sizes, which I need. Through
experimenting, I've realized that the reason why just this one bit
brand/type works so well, is how they designed the angle on the tip.
Not the point angle that is generally spoken of, such as 118 degrees
or 135 degrees... but the angle at which the tops are cut at. I'm not
even sure what you call that part of the bit. But if you look at the
bit from the side and see the main point, which is typically the
standard 118 or 135 degrees... then turn the bit to the other side and
look at the angle that goes along the top of that side... This is the
angle the controls how much bite the blades (if that what's they're
referred to) make into the material. I noticed that, that 'blade'
angle on the bits that work well for me are particularly flat compared
to most other bits... There's very little angle/bite at all. So... My
question is, does anybody know of a sharpener that isn't a fortune,
but can control that angle? Or is it possible to find human-beings
these days that actually know enough about sharpening to understand
that? I would like to sharpen numerous bits to that configuration.
Thanks for any info,
Dave
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Posted by Tom Gardner on April 13, 2008, 9:16 pm
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>I recently discovered how to fix an issue with drilling that I was
> having... I wanted to drill at a fairly slow speed in certain
> materials and found that one type of bit worked best. Unfortunately,
> they don't make that bit in letter sizes, which I need. Through
> experimenting, I've realized that the reason why just this one bit
> brand/type works so well, is how they designed the angle on the tip.
> Not the point angle that is generally spoken of, such as 118 degrees
> or 135 degrees... but the angle at which the tops are cut at. I'm not
> even sure what you call that part of the bit. But if you look at the
> bit from the side and see the main point, which is typically the
> standard 118 or 135 degrees... then turn the bit to the other side and
> look at the angle that goes along the top of that side... This is the
> angle the controls how much bite the blades (if that what's they're
> referred to) make into the material. I noticed that, that 'blade'
> angle on the bits that work well for me are particularly flat compared
> to most other bits... There's very little angle/bite at all. So... My
> question is, does anybody know of a sharpener that isn't a fortune,
> but can control that angle? Or is it possible to find human-beings
> these days that actually know enough about sharpening to understand
> that? I would like to sharpen numerous bits to that configuration.
>
> Thanks for any info,
>
> Dave
I'll bet somebody here has the wonderful instructions I once saw here. I think
it was by "T-Nut". In any case, learning how to sharpen your drill bits by hand
is worth the time and effort. The first step is to have a grinding wheel
dressed as close to perfection as possible. The rest is common sense and a bit
of practice. Don't over heat the steel! Once you learn the basics, you can
grind specials, like the one you mentioned with the low rake angle. You can be
an expert in an hour!
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Posted by Jeff Wisnia on April 13, 2008, 11:44 pm
Please log in for more thread options Tom Gardner wrote:
>
>>I recently discovered how to fix an issue with drilling that I was
>>having... I wanted to drill at a fairly slow speed in certain
>>materials and found that one type of bit worked best. Unfortunately,
>>they don't make that bit in letter sizes, which I need. Through
>>experimenting, I've realized that the reason why just this one bit
>>brand/type works so well, is how they designed the angle on the tip.
>>Not the point angle that is generally spoken of, such as 118 degrees
>>or 135 degrees... but the angle at which the tops are cut at. I'm not
>>even sure what you call that part of the bit. But if you look at the
>>bit from the side and see the main point, which is typically the
>>standard 118 or 135 degrees... then turn the bit to the other side and
>>look at the angle that goes along the top of that side... This is the
>>angle the controls how much bite the blades (if that what's they're
>>referred to) make into the material. I noticed that, that 'blade'
>>angle on the bits that work well for me are particularly flat compared
>>to most other bits... There's very little angle/bite at all. So... My
>>question is, does anybody know of a sharpener that isn't a fortune,
>>but can control that angle? Or is it possible to find human-beings
>>these days that actually know enough about sharpening to understand
>>that? I would like to sharpen numerous bits to that configuration.
>>
>>Thanks for any info,
>>
>>Dave
>
>
> I'll bet somebody here has the wonderful instructions I once saw here. I
think
> it was by "T-Nut".
I think you mean these:
http://www.diybanter.com/showpost.php?p=160243&postcount=4
Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.
In any case, learning how to sharpen your drill bits by hand
> is worth the time and effort. The first step is to have a grinding wheel
> dressed as close to perfection as possible. The rest is common sense and a
bit
> of practice. Don't over heat the steel! Once you learn the basics, you can
> grind specials, like the one you mentioned with the low rake angle. You can
be
> an expert in an hour!
>
>
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Posted by Ronald Thompson on April 14, 2008, 6:15 am
Please log in for more thread options Tom Gardner wrote:
>> I recently discovered how to fix an issue with drilling that I was
>> having... I wanted to drill at a fairly slow speed in certain
>> materials and found that one type of bit worked best. Unfortunately,
>> they don't make that bit in letter sizes, which I need. Through
>> experimenting, I've realized that the reason why just this one bit
>> brand/type works so well, is how they designed the angle on the tip.
>> Not the point angle that is generally spoken of, such as 118 degrees
>> or 135 degrees... but the angle at which the tops are cut at. I'm not
>> even sure what you call that part of the bit. But if you look at the
>> bit from the side and see the main point, which is typically the
>> standard 118 or 135 degrees... then turn the bit to the other side and
>> look at the angle that goes along the top of that side... This is the
>> angle the controls how much bite the blades (if that what's they're
>> referred to) make into the material. I noticed that, that 'blade'
>> angle on the bits that work well for me are particularly flat compared
>> to most other bits... There's very little angle/bite at all. So... My
>> question is, does anybody know of a sharpener that isn't a fortune,
>> but can control that angle? Or is it possible to find human-beings
>> these days that actually know enough about sharpening to understand
>> that? I would like to sharpen numerous bits to that configuration.
>>
>> Thanks for any info,
>>
>> Dave
>
> I'll bet somebody here has the wonderful instructions I once saw here. I
think
> it was by "T-Nut". In any case, learning how to sharpen your drill bits by
hand
> is worth the time and effort. The first step is to have a grinding wheel
> dressed as close to perfection as possible. The rest is common sense and a
bit
> of practice. Don't over heat the steel! Once you learn the basics, you can
> grind specials, like the one you mentioned with the low rake angle. You can
be
> an expert in an hour!
>
>
Another point to remember is all drills drill an over sized hole, or so
I was taught in machinist school. You can use this to your advantage by
doing it on purpose. It is accomplished by grinding one side slightly
longer that the other. Drill scrap to verify the finished hole size.
--
Ron Thompson
Riding my '07 XL883C Sportster
On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast,
right beside the Kennedy Space Center,
USA
http://www.plansandprojects.com
My hobby pages are here:
http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/
Visit the castinghobby FAQ:
http://castinghobbywiki.plansandprojects.com/
The member map is here:
http://www.frappr.com/castinghobby
This ain't football, you can't just sit in a computer chair and memorize
facts.
-Ron Thompson
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Posted by Tom Gardner on April 15, 2008, 12:55 pm
Please log in for more thread options
> Tom Gardner wrote:
>>> I recently discovered how to fix an issue with drilling that I was
>>> having... I wanted to drill at a fairly slow speed in certain
>>> materials and found that one type of bit worked best. Unfortunately,
>>> they don't make that bit in letter sizes, which I need. Through
>>> experimenting, I've realized that the reason why just this one bit
>>> brand/type works so well, is how they designed the angle on the tip.
>>> Not the point angle that is generally spoken of, such as 118 degrees
>>> or 135 degrees... but the angle at which the tops are cut at. I'm not
>>> even sure what you call that part of the bit. But if you look at the
>>> bit from the side and see the main point, which is typically the
>>> standard 118 or 135 degrees... then turn the bit to the other side and
>>> look at the angle that goes along the top of that side... This is the
>>> angle the controls how much bite the blades (if that what's they're
>>> referred to) make into the material. I noticed that, that 'blade'
>>> angle on the bits that work well for me are particularly flat compared
>>> to most other bits... There's very little angle/bite at all. So... My
>>> question is, does anybody know of a sharpener that isn't a fortune,
>>> but can control that angle? Or is it possible to find human-beings
>>> these days that actually know enough about sharpening to understand
>>> that? I would like to sharpen numerous bits to that configuration.
>>>
>>> Thanks for any info,
>>>
>>> Dave
>>
>> I'll bet somebody here has the wonderful instructions I once saw here. I
>> think it was by "T-Nut". In any case, learning how to sharpen your drill
>> bits by hand is worth the time and effort. The first step is to have a
>> grinding wheel dressed as close to perfection as possible. The rest is
>> common sense and a bit of practice. Don't over heat the steel! Once you
>> learn the basics, you can grind specials, like the one you mentioned with the
>> low rake angle. You can be an expert in an hour!
> Another point to remember is all drills drill an over sized hole, or so I was
> taught in machinist school. You can use this to your advantage by doing it on
> purpose. It is accomplished by grinding one side slightly longer that the
> other. Drill scrap to verify the finished hole size.
>
My uncle taught me to sharpen drills 30 some years ago, he could grind a drill
that would drill an UNDERSIZE hole...I never mastered that.
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> having... I wanted to drill at a fairly slow speed in certain
> materials and found that one type of bit worked best. Unfortunately,
> they don't make that bit in letter sizes, which I need. Through
> experimenting, I've realized that the reason why just this one bit
> brand/type works so well, is how they designed the angle on the tip.
> Not the point angle that is generally spoken of, such as 118 degrees
> or 135 degrees... but the angle at which the tops are cut at. I'm not
> even sure what you call that part of the bit. But if you look at the
> bit from the side and see the main point, which is typically the
> standard 118 or 135 degrees... then turn the bit to the other side and
> look at the angle that goes along the top of that side... This is the
> angle the controls how much bite the blades (if that what's they're
> referred to) make into the material. I noticed that, that 'blade'
> angle on the bits that work well for me are particularly flat compared
> to most other bits... There's very little angle/bite at all. So... My
> question is, does anybody know of a sharpener that isn't a fortune,
> but can control that angle? Or is it possible to find human-beings
> these days that actually know enough about sharpening to understand
> that? I would like to sharpen numerous bits to that configuration.
>
> Thanks for any info,
>
> Dave