Thread cutting on a reversible lathe

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Subject Author Date
Thread cutting on a reversible lathe Ignoramus16954 07-10-2008
Posted by Ignoramus16954 on July 10, 2008, 10:44 am
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I am trying to recall some 20 year old high school memories. If I am
cutting a thread on a lathe, and the lathe is reversible, then I can
cut the thread one way, stop/reverse the lathe, return, set the cutter
deeper, and repeat, right?

I do not need to withdraw the cutter, move it back, find the proper
spot to restart, etc. Right or wrong?

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Posted by David Billington on July 10, 2008, 11:10 am
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Ignoramus16954 wrote:
> I am trying to recall some 20 year old high school memories. If I am
> cutting a thread on a lathe, and the lathe is reversible, then I can
> cut the thread one way, stop/reverse the lathe, return, set the cutter
> deeper, and repeat, right?
>
> I do not need to withdraw the cutter, move it back, find the proper
> spot to restart, etc. Right or wrong?
>
>
Unless your lathe has absolutely no backlash anywhere then you are going
to need to withdraw the tool prior to reversing as it will take a
different path in the reverse direction and probably ruin your piece. It
is how I cut many threads especially metric as although the Harrison
M300 has a universal thread cutting gearbox the leadscrew is inch.

Posted by Paul K. Dickman on July 10, 2008, 11:12 am
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If you are talking about using the tumbler reverse in the gear train, the
answer is, "no". It disengages the gears and looses position.

If you are talking about reversing the motor, the answer is' "yes it is
possible"
You still have to back the cutter out of the cut, however. Reversing the
motor swings all the backlash in the system the other way and the tool will
drag over the threads.

Paul K. Dickman

>I am trying to recall some 20 year old high school memories. If I am
> cutting a thread on a lathe, and the lathe is reversible, then I can
> cut the thread one way, stop/reverse the lathe, return, set the cutter
> deeper, and repeat, right?
>
> I do not need to withdraw the cutter, move it back, find the proper
> spot to restart, etc. Right or wrong?
>
> --
> Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their
> inattention
> to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
> from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
> more readers you will need to find a different means of
> posting on Usenet.
> http://improve-usenet.org/



Posted by Ignoramus16954 on July 10, 2008, 11:39 am
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> If you are talking about using the tumbler reverse in the gear train, the
> answer is, "no". It disengages the gears and looses position.
>
> If you are talking about reversing the motor, the answer is' "yes it is
> possible"

I am talking about reversing the motor, if I only reversed the
carriage, it would try to cut the opposite thread (left handed).

> You still have to back the cutter out of the cut, however. Reversing the
> motor swings all the backlash in the system the other way and the tool will
> drag over the threads.

I see. The backlash would screw up the thread. However, keeping the
carriage engaged at all times, would keep it along the thread when
running in the right-to-left direction.

i


> Paul K. Dickman
>
>>I am trying to recall some 20 year old high school memories. If I am
>> cutting a thread on a lathe, and the lathe is reversible, then I can
>> cut the thread one way, stop/reverse the lathe, return, set the cutter
>> deeper, and repeat, right?
>>
>> I do not need to withdraw the cutter, move it back, find the proper
>> spot to restart, etc. Right or wrong?
>>
>
>

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Posted by Jim Wilkins on July 10, 2008, 12:49 pm
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I do threading like a state machine. Each starred state is
uninterruptible and leaves the machine in a distinct condition, so i
know where I am after measuring or answering the phone. The cross
slide and compound dials are set to zero when the tip barely scratches
the work.

*At the end of the cut disengage the half nuts and back out the slide
exactly 0.100, ie to the next 0 at this point.

*Move the carriage back past the end of the work. Turn the slide in
one turn.

*Advance the compound a few thousandths. Engage the half nuts when the
proper line on the threading dial matches, or move the carriage to
meet it.

The last few fine cuts to adjust the fit are done straight in with the
slide, to smooth both thread flanks. Turning the dial exactly one turn
preserves its setting if I'm interrupted.

I added the threading dial line and the 29 degree infeed depth to the
quick-change gearbox chart.

Jim Wilkins

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