Tinning cookware

>>> Grant-It seems to me that maybe it is tallow and not lard that can be
>>> used on the rag to wipe the tin. I don't remember now. Anyway, since
>>> paste flux works why bother? One more thing to remember is that when
>>> wiping the tin pressing too hard will thin out the tin layer. I have
>>> reflowed the tin with a torch when wiping too cold left ridges in the
>>> tin. Practice helps. I have been soldering for 45 years, the first
>>> time I used a soldering iron I was 7 years old. So even though it
>>> sounds easy and is fairly easy for me it may well be that it is not.
>>> One thing that makes soldering and tinning fail is too much heat. so
>>> be careful.
>>> Cheers,
>>> Eric

>> Thanks, Eric! This mixer bowl is pretty large, probably 15x15x15". Only the
>> bottom 8" or so on the inside are bare. I think what I'd try is first of
>> all to get some pure tin somewhere (?) or maybe some 4%silver-96%tin solder.
>> I might be able to get some tallow over at Fisherman's Terminal where it is
>> still used on wooden boats. Then I'd use a gentle pickle inside the bowl to
>> clean the oxidation from the bare steel. I think I'd try citric acid and hot
>> water and time.
>>
>> I'd do the operation in the oven. I think I'd put a bunch of sal ammoniac
>> powder (shaved from the block) in the bowl and put it in the oven set to 450F,
>> and when it flows, wipe it around with a cotton cloth and then put in a bunch
>> of either pure tin or the Ag/Sn solder as above and put it back in the oven
>> until the solder melts, then try swirling it around and wiping it out with the
>> same cloth. I don't think there's much to lose in this case since they've
>> already bought a stainless replacement bowl, so if I screw this up I don't
>> think it would hurt them any.
>>
>> Grant

> Wild bill says to use beeswax. I have heard of that too. As for the
> silver bearing solder I never thought of that. I use some stuff called
> "Tarasil" that's 96/4. No antimony, which some lead free solders
> contain (surprised me!). The silver bearing solders are easy to apply
> because they go through a slushy phase ( like that exact chemistry
> term?) before they become liquid so you can see when things are going
> to get too hot. I think the oven may be a mistake. I think the tin
> remaining may be damaged. But give it a try, I'm curious. Once again,
> body shops used to use pure tin to tin the steel before leading seams
> and dents. Maybe Wesco in Bellevue has some.
> Eric