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Posted by Don Foreman on May 6, 2008, 12:38 pm
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On Mon, 5 May 2008 22:04:34 -0800, "SteveB"
>
>Other than looks, does this make a difference? The tire will obviously
>sling a little stuff that the fender won't stop. If I bolt the fender
>directly to the channel frame, as shown in the picture, it would vibrate
>less than if I make extension bracketing, and added weight.
I don't think so. Just weld spacer blocks to the frame, made of the
same material as the trailer itself -- channel or whatever. They will
be so much more substantial than the fenders it'll be as though the
fenders were fastened directly to the frame.
I used a couple of stress spreader plates inside my fenders to stiffen
them and to eliminate high stress points that would fatigue with
vibration. They don't need to be very large to be effective. I think
I welded them to the fenders.
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Posted by John Miller on May 6, 2008, 12:43 pm
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Weld square tubing stubs perpendicular to the frame, set the fender on the
top of the stubs and weld in place. With the stubs supporting the weight of
the fender, you might not even need any other bracing.
--
J Miller
>I just bought two fenders and two skirts for my trailer. The fenders are
>just formed C shaped things, and the skirts 1/4 moon flat pieces that fit
>into the formed C's. I tacked the skirts to the fenders.
>
> When I put them onto the frame of the trailer, they do not align. When
> viewed from behind, the wheel is farther out than the center of the
> fender. In order to make it align, I would have to fabricate a bracket,
> and do much more than just bolting them on. The edge of the tire sticks
> out about 1 " past the outside of the fender.
>
> Other than looks, does this make a difference? The tire will obviously
> sling a little stuff that the fender won't stop. If I bolt the fender
> directly to the channel frame, as shown in the picture, it would vibrate
> less than if I make extension bracketing, and added weight. One fender
> has a work table over it, and can be totally supported by a bolt down from
> that. The other will have to be braced, and that bracing is in a space I
> need for an O2 bottle, which is behind the leads in the picture. So, I'd
> have to use heavier angle or flat bar to beef up that fender that would be
> flexing out there 24/7.
>
> Photo @ http://www.flickr.com/photos/deserttraveler/
>
> What would you do?
>
> Steve
>
> --
> "...the man who really counts in the world is the doer, not the mere
> critic-the man who actually does the work, even if roughly and
> imperfectly, not the man who only talks or writes about how it ought to be
> done." Theodore Roosevelt 1891
>
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Posted by wstiefer on May 6, 2008, 4:22 pm
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John Miller wrote:
> Weld square tubing stubs perpendicular to the frame, set the fender
> on the top of the stubs and weld in place. With the stubs supporting
> the weight of the fender, you might not even need any other bracing.
>=20
Ditto, except: weld an upright axle c/l and perpenducular from there to =
support middle of fender.
3 points.
>> I just bought two fenders and two skirts for my trailer. The
>> fenders are just formed C shaped things, and the skirts 1/4 moon
>> flat pieces that fit into the formed C's. I tacked the skirts to
>> the fenders.=20
>>=20
>> When I put them onto the frame of the trailer, they do not align.=20
>> When viewed from behind, the wheel is farther out than the center of
>> the fender. In order to make it align, I would have to fabricate a
>> bracket, and do much more than just bolting them on. The edge of
>> the tire sticks out about 1 " past the outside of the fender.
>>=20
>> Other than looks, does this make a difference? The tire will
>> obviously sling a little stuff that the fender won't stop. If I
>> bolt the fender directly to the channel frame, as shown in the
>> picture, it would vibrate less than if I make extension bracketing,
>> and added weight. One fender has a work table over it, and can be
>> totally supported by a bolt down from that. The other will have to
>> be braced, and that bracing is in a space I need for an O2 bottle,
>> which is behind the leads in the picture. So, I'd have to use
>> heavier angle or flat bar to beef up that fender that would be
>> flexing out there 24/7.=20
>>=20
>> Photo @ http://www.flickr.com/photos/deserttraveler/
>>=20
>> What would you do?
>>=20
>> Steve
>>=20
>> --
>> "...the man who really counts in the world is the doer, not the mere
>> critic-the man who actually does the work, even if roughly and
>> imperfectly, not the man who only talks or writes about how it ought
>> to be done." Theodore Roosevelt 1891
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Posted by SteveB on May 7, 2008, 1:40 am
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> Weld square tubing stubs perpendicular to the frame, set the fender on the
> top of the stubs and weld in place. With the stubs supporting the weight
> of the fender, you might not even need any other bracing.
>
> --
> J Miller
Cut angle and drilled it onto the front and rear lips of the fender. Welded
the angle to the frame with 7018. If I total a fender, I just unbolt it and
replace. I thought of just welding it, but if there's a problem, I would
have to torch it all off. This way, at least it's a bolt on/off thing.
Steve
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Posted by Martin H. Eastburn on May 6, 2008, 11:15 pm
Please log in for more thread options What is it - two or three bolts ? Make thick washers. Maybe stack of such.
Cover the tire - the person behind you might not write down your plate number
for their insurance man.....
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/
SteveB wrote:
> I just bought two fenders and two skirts for my trailer. The fenders are
> just formed C shaped things, and the skirts 1/4 moon flat pieces that fit
> into the formed C's. I tacked the skirts to the fenders.
>
> When I put them onto the frame of the trailer, they do not align. When
> viewed from behind, the wheel is farther out than the center of the fender.
> In order to make it align, I would have to fabricate a bracket, and do much
> more than just bolting them on. The edge of the tire sticks out about 1 "
> past the outside of the fender.
>
> Other than looks, does this make a difference? The tire will obviously
> sling a little stuff that the fender won't stop. If I bolt the fender
> directly to the channel frame, as shown in the picture, it would vibrate
> less than if I make extension bracketing, and added weight. One fender has
> a work table over it, and can be totally supported by a bolt down from that.
> The other will have to be braced, and that bracing is in a space I need for
> an O2 bottle, which is behind the leads in the picture. So, I'd have to use
> heavier angle or flat bar to beef up that fender that would be flexing out
> there 24/7.
>
> Photo @ http://www.flickr.com/photos/deserttraveler/
>
> What would you do?
>
> Steve
>
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>Other than looks, does this make a difference? The tire will obviously
>sling a little stuff that the fender won't stop. If I bolt the fender
>directly to the channel frame, as shown in the picture, it would vibrate
>less than if I make extension bracketing, and added weight.