|
Posted by Martin H. Eastburn on May 6, 2008, 11:18 pm
Please log in for more thread options
The other real fab way :
Rip down the centers of the fenders and stitch in a 6" flat that matches.
So each side is a quarter round and the top is a flat. Beef up the bracket
for the higher weight.
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/
SteveB wrote:
> I just bought two fenders and two skirts for my trailer. The fenders are
> just formed C shaped things, and the skirts 1/4 moon flat pieces that fit
> into the formed C's. I tacked the skirts to the fenders.
>
> When I put them onto the frame of the trailer, they do not align. When
> viewed from behind, the wheel is farther out than the center of the fender.
> In order to make it align, I would have to fabricate a bracket, and do much
> more than just bolting them on. The edge of the tire sticks out about 1 "
> past the outside of the fender.
>
> Other than looks, does this make a difference? The tire will obviously
> sling a little stuff that the fender won't stop. If I bolt the fender
> directly to the channel frame, as shown in the picture, it would vibrate
> less than if I make extension bracketing, and added weight. One fender has
> a work table over it, and can be totally supported by a bolt down from that.
> The other will have to be braced, and that bracing is in a space I need for
> an O2 bottle, which is behind the leads in the picture. So, I'd have to use
> heavier angle or flat bar to beef up that fender that would be flexing out
> there 24/7.
>
> Photo @ http://www.flickr.com/photos/deserttraveler/
>
> What would you do?
>
> Steve
>
----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >100,000 Newsgroups
---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =---
|
|
Posted by Bruce L. Bergman on May 8, 2008, 1:59 am
Please log in for more thread options
On Mon, 5 May 2008 22:04:34 -0800, "SteveB"
>I just bought two fenders and two skirts for my trailer. The fenders are
>just formed C shaped things, and the skirts 1/4 moon flat pieces that fit
>into the formed C's. I tacked the skirts to the fenders.
>
>When I put them onto the frame of the trailer, they do not align. When
>viewed from behind, the wheel is farther out than the center of the fender.
>In order to make it align, I would have to fabricate a bracket, and do much
>more than just bolting them on. The edge of the tire sticks out about 1 "
>past the outside of the fender.
>
>Other than looks, does this make a difference? The tire will obviously
>sling a little stuff that the fender won't stop. If I bolt the fender
>directly to the channel frame, as shown in the picture, it would vibrate
>less than if I make extension bracketing, and added weight. One fender has
>a work table over it, and can be totally supported by a bolt down from that.
>The other will have to be braced, and that bracing is in a space I need for
>an O2 bottle, which is behind the leads in the picture. So, I'd have to use
>heavier angle or flat bar to beef up that fender that would be flexing out
>there 24/7.
>
>Photo @ http://www.flickr.com/photos/deserttraveler/
>
>What would you do?
The fenders have to cover the entire tire, or the cops can make you
fix it. Space out the fenders from the body, and do NOT weld the
fender on - if you hit something and bend the fender bad enough to
make tire contact you need to be able to remove it quickly, so you can
get back in motion and fix it at home.
I would make spacers out of square or rectangular tubing at the
front and rear leading edges of the fender, welded to the fender, and
attach to the frame rails with two 1/4" bolts at each end. The center
'backstay' brace doesn't have to be dead center, you can go around the
back side of the Oxygen bottle bracket.
Or go get wider fenders, so they can go flush to the chassis and
still cover the tires. You could cut and widen them, but that's a LOT
of work between the delicate welding, grinding and filling...
Either way, don't make the bolts too strong, let them be the "Oh,
Shit!" failure point - if a tire shreds or throws the tread at speed,
I'd rather replace snapped 1/4" bolts and bang out the bent fender a
little, rather than have a totally mangled fender that stayed on the
trailer - and will have to be bent back before you can get a new tire
on and leave.
Make sure you leave an inch or more inside clearance at the back of
the tire face to the fender skirts. If you hit a bump on one side the
tires move inboard as the spring cycles and it goes up. And if you
put the fender too far out with the attaching bolts right there with
threads sticking out, you will have a cut tire.
--<< Bruce >>--
|
| Similar Threads | Posted | | Spaced out fender | May 12, 2008, 3:09 am |
| Trailer question | June 24, 2008, 9:21 am |
| Canoe Trailer Question | May 24, 2008, 2:19 pm |
| [Trailer project] Welded adjustable towing eye holder to trailer tongue | January 21, 2007, 6:13 pm |
| trailer 101? | October 21, 2006, 9:56 pm |
| Got a new trailer | July 4, 2007, 7:16 pm |
| Re: making a trailer | January 11, 2007, 5:40 pm |
| OT Trailer Tires | January 26, 2007, 5:41 pm |
| Trailer update | January 26, 2007, 7:49 pm |
| Trailer bed painting? | January 30, 2007, 11:16 am |
|
|
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap
> just formed C shaped things, and the skirts 1/4 moon flat pieces that fit
> into the formed C's. I tacked the skirts to the fenders.
>
> When I put them onto the frame of the trailer, they do not align. When
> viewed from behind, the wheel is farther out than the center of the fender.
> In order to make it align, I would have to fabricate a bracket, and do much
> more than just bolting them on. The edge of the tire sticks out about 1 "
> past the outside of the fender.
>
> Other than looks, does this make a difference? The tire will obviously
> sling a little stuff that the fender won't stop. If I bolt the fender
> directly to the channel frame, as shown in the picture, it would vibrate
> less than if I make extension bracketing, and added weight. One fender has
> a work table over it, and can be totally supported by a bolt down from that.
> The other will have to be braced, and that bracing is in a space I need for
> an O2 bottle, which is behind the leads in the picture. So, I'd have to use
> heavier angle or flat bar to beef up that fender that would be flexing out
> there 24/7.
>
> Photo @ http://www.flickr.com/photos/deserttraveler/
>
> What would you do?
>
> Steve
>