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General Metalworking - All aspects of working with metal.
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Posted by Wayne Cook on May 11, 2008, 12:15 pm
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On Sun, 11 May 2008 11:06:37 -0400, John Husvar
>
>>
>> Black and Yellow going to the field windings.
>> Blue and Brown going to the tach windings
>> Each of the brushes have spade terminals on them and no wires as yet.
>
>Which would tell me one can wire it either series or shunt field.
>
>Series provides the greatest torque. The more you load it the more
>current it draws until it burns up. Connect one field wire to one brush
>and line leads to the other brush and other field wire. Tach leads to a
>tach circuit that'll suit or leave open.
>
>The way you describe it, it was probably shunt wired. Shunt connected
>provides better speed control and easier possibility of dynamic braking.
>Reduce armature current and increase field current to brake. Connect the
>field wires to the appropriate terminals on a drive. Same with the
>brushes. Tach wires to appropriate terminals. Use a field-loss relay!
>GA,AMWIST. :)
>
Ok. Since nobody else in the know is piping up I think I better jump
in here before something goes poof.
First off these are series wound motors. I'd have to go look to make
sure but I'm betting the brushes are already wired in (I've never seen
or heard of one that wasn't already wired properly except possibly the
need to switch the brush wires to reverse the motor). If that's not
the case then we can go into more detail.
The controller should be fairly simple since you know where the
schematics are, I'd have to look them up myself before I could tell
you more and I'm the one who drew them.
>Tach windings can be used, and probably were, to control speed under
>varying load conditions.
Definitely in this case since the controller is triac based (in
other words it's just a fancy light dimmer). You might want to look at
the schematics before assuming this is a standard controller.
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Posted by Dave on May 11, 2008, 12:50 pm
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Hi Wayne,
Thanks for the schematics way back then. This is the controller that was
supplied with the motor so I assume it is the correct one. I had put
them away boxed together.
I popped one of the brush carriers out and there is no connection to
anything internally. The spade terminal on the carrier is the only
available spot for a connection, but to where?
It is possible that back in 2000 when I had this running, I had been
instructed by someone on RCM to rewire it so I could use a reversing switch.
Would that have involved the field wiring and brush connections?
Also I want this to run CCW ONLY, and it looks like the brush-angle
orientation suggests CW rotation.
Maybe, getting the old motor for the sander back into service with the
momentary switch is going to be the best bet. If I can get some wiring
instructions on that, I will be happy. See my reply this morning to
William for Ohms and Amps.
Dave
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Posted by Wayne Cook on May 12, 2008, 9:22 am
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>Hi Wayne,
>
>Thanks for the schematics way back then. This is the controller that was
>supplied with the motor so I assume it is the correct one. I had put
>them away boxed together.
>
>I popped one of the brush carriers out and there is no connection to
>anything internally. The spade terminal on the carrier is the only
>available spot for a connection, but to where?
>
>It is possible that back in 2000 when I had this running, I had been
>instructed by someone on RCM to rewire it so I could use a reversing switch.
>
>Would that have involved the field wiring and brush connections?
>
Yep.
>Also I want this to run CCW ONLY, and it looks like the brush-angle
>orientation suggests CW rotation.
>
Yes they're biased for one direction so I wouldn't recommend
extended running in reverse.
As for wiring it's pretty simple. Take one of the field windings and
run it to one of the brushes. Then take the other brush and field
winding to the controller. Swap either the field or the brush pair
(not both) to reverse.
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Posted by Dave on May 12, 2008, 7:29 pm
Please log in for more thread options Hi,
Well, I wired the treadmill motor as described by several people. Ran
the wires to the controller as described, applied power and behold she
runs. I ran the speed up and woohooo, she runs fast.
A total of 30 seconds of blissful triumph and it suddenly coasted to a
stop. Never to start again. My guess is I fried something in the
controller. Yes, I know I had to wind the knob back to the start to
re-start it.
Oh, well, I think I paid 40-bucks for the motor and control back in
2000. I guess the motor is still fine, but no smoke, no noise just a
silent run down. <grin> Nothing overly warm on the control.
Thanks to all who tried to help with this.
Dave
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Posted by on May 12, 2008, 10:32 pm
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>Hi,
>
>Well, I wired the treadmill motor as described by several people. Ran
>the wires to the controller as described, applied power and behold she
>runs. I ran the speed up and woohooo, she runs fast.
>
>A total of 30 seconds of blissful triumph and it suddenly coasted to a
>stop. Never to start again. My guess is I fried something in the
>controller. Yes, I know I had to wind the knob back to the start to
>re-start it.
>
>Oh, well, I think I paid 40-bucks for the motor and control back in
>2000. I guess the motor is still fine, but no smoke, no noise just a
>silent run down. <grin> Nothing overly warm on the control.
>
>Thanks to all who tried to help with this.
>
>Dave
Look for a bad solder connection on the power device. I had to
resolder mine to make it work the first time. Cannot remember exactly
where, but it was in the power circuit.
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
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