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Posted by JR North on May 13, 2008, 9:23 pm
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Sweep the pot. Check the loop from the rpm sensor in the motor.
JR
Dweller in the cellar
>Hi,
>
>Well, I wired the treadmill motor as described by several people. Ran
>the wires to the controller as described, applied power and behold she
>runs. I ran the speed up and woohooo, she runs fast.
>
>A total of 30 seconds of blissful triumph and it suddenly coasted to a
>stop. Never to start again. My guess is I fried something in the
>controller. Yes, I know I had to wind the knob back to the start to
>re-start it.
>
>Oh, well, I think I paid 40-bucks for the motor and control back in
>2000. I guess the motor is still fine, but no smoke, no noise just a
>silent run down. <grin> Nothing overly warm on the control.
>
>Thanks to all who tried to help with this.
>
>Dave
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Posted by on May 13, 2008, 9:44 pm
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On Tue, 13 May 2008 18:23:59 -0700, JR North
>Sweep the pot. Check the loop from the rpm sensor in the motor.
>JR
>Dweller in the cellar
>
>
>>Hi,
Check for bad solder joints on the SCR or whatever the output device
is, as well as all through the power circuit.
>>
>>Well, I wired the treadmill motor as described by several people. Ran
>>the wires to the controller as described, applied power and behold she
>>runs. I ran the speed up and woohooo, she runs fast.
>>
>>A total of 30 seconds of blissful triumph and it suddenly coasted to a
>>stop. Never to start again. My guess is I fried something in the
>>controller. Yes, I know I had to wind the knob back to the start to
>>re-start it.
>>
>>Oh, well, I think I paid 40-bucks for the motor and control back in
>>2000. I guess the motor is still fine, but no smoke, no noise just a
>>silent run down. <grin> Nothing overly warm on the control.
>>
>>Thanks to all who tried to help with this.
>>
>>Dave
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
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Posted by William Noble on May 14, 2008, 2:23 am
Please log in for more thread options >
>>Hi,
>>
>>Well, I wired the treadmill motor as described by several people. Ran
>>the wires to the controller as described, applied power and behold she
>>runs. I ran the speed up and woohooo, she runs fast.
>>
>>A total of 30 seconds of blissful triumph and it suddenly coasted to a
>>stop. Never to start again. My guess is I fried something in the
>>controller. Yes, I know I had to wind the knob back to the start to
>>re-start it.
>>
>>Oh, well, I think I paid 40-bucks for the motor and control back in
>>2000. I guess the motor is still fine, but no smoke, no noise just a
>>silent run down. <grin> Nothing overly warm on the control.
>>
>>Thanks to all who tried to help with this.
>>
>>Dave
your treadmill motor is a DC motor. Take the motor, hook it to your car
battery - it ought to run. If it does, something happened in the
controller. If it doesn't, check that the brushes aren't stuck.
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
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Posted by Dave, I can't do that on May 23, 2008, 7:32 pm
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Hi William,
Yup, the motor still runs. It must definitely be the control. I have
put it all away now and will look at it if I ever need to make the
controller work.
Thanks to all.
Dave
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Posted by Bruce L. Bergman on May 11, 2008, 4:48 pm
Please log in for more thread options On Sun, 11 May 2008 11:06:37 -0400, John Husvar
>> Black and Yellow going to the field windings.
>> Blue and Brown going to the tach windings
>> Each of the brushes have spade terminals on them and no wires as yet.
>
>Which would tell me one can wire it either series or shunt field.
>
>Series provides the greatest torque. The more you load it the more
>current it draws until it burns up. Connect one field wire to one brush
>and line leads to the other brush and other field wire. Tach leads to a
>tach circuit that'll suit or leave open.
>
>The way you describe it, it was probably shunt wired. Shunt connected
>provides better speed control and easier possibility of dynamic braking.
>Reduce armature current and increase field current to brake. Connect the
>field wires to the appropriate terminals on a drive. Same with the
>brushes. Tach wires to appropriate terminals. Use a field-loss relay!
>GA,AMWIST. :)
>
>Tach windings can be used, and probably were, to control speed under
>varying load conditions.
You /really/ need the tach winding and motor controller for series
wound connected motors, and doubly so if it will ever be operating
unattended for even a few moments. Because if the load goes away with
full voltage applied that motor will gladly spin up to "Infinity RPM"
- or up to the armature (or attached equipment) self-destruct speed,
whichever comes first.
This is why large (100+ HP) traction motors aren't connected through
belts or gearboxes - the motorman might not be fast enough to kill the
main power before the excitement really starts...
--<< Bruce >>--
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>
>Well, I wired the treadmill motor as described by several people. Ran
>the wires to the controller as described, applied power and behold she
>runs. I ran the speed up and woohooo, she runs fast.
>
>A total of 30 seconds of blissful triumph and it suddenly coasted to a
>stop. Never to start again. My guess is I fried something in the
>controller. Yes, I know I had to wind the knob back to the start to
>re-start it.
>
>Oh, well, I think I paid 40-bucks for the motor and control back in
>2000. I guess the motor is still fine, but no smoke, no noise just a
>silent run down. <grin> Nothing overly warm on the control.
>
>Thanks to all who tried to help with this.
>
>Dave