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General Metalworking - All aspects of working with metal.
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Posted by Artemus on May 10, 2008, 4:59 pm
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Most treadmill motors are DC and have 4 wires.
The 2 blue ones are the over temp breaker.
The other 2 are connected to the brushes.
Usually the connections are in series to prevent burning out the motor.
Art
> Hi,
>
> The motor on my HF 4 x 36 belt sander went belly up after only about 6
> or 8 years. Sheesh. I contacted HF for a new one and it is going to be
> 40-bucks plus shipping and 12 to 15 week wait. <sigh>
>
> I was scrounging around under the benches and found one of the
> Treadmill motors and controllers that Surplus Center used to sell.
>
> Problem is I have a bunch of wires hanging out of the motor and no
> idea who goes where.
>
> I checked the dropbox and there is a schematic for the controller but
> nothing for the wires to the motor.
>
> Can anyone please help me with how to wire this up.
>
> Thanks guys.
>
> Dave
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Posted by Artemus on May 10, 2008, 5:10 pm
Please log in for more thread options
I couldn't find the schematic in the dropbox.
What is the filename?
Art
> Hi,
>
> The motor on my HF 4 x 36 belt sander went belly up after only about 6
> or 8 years. Sheesh. I contacted HF for a new one and it is going to be
> 40-bucks plus shipping and 12 to 15 week wait. <sigh>
>
> I was scrounging around under the benches and found one of the
> Treadmill motors and controllers that Surplus Center used to sell.
>
> Problem is I have a bunch of wires hanging out of the motor and no
> idea who goes where.
>
> I checked the dropbox and there is a schematic for the controller but
> nothing for the wires to the motor.
>
> Can anyone please help me with how to wire this up.
>
> Thanks guys.
>
> Dave
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Posted by Dave on May 10, 2008, 6:42 pm
Please log in for more thread options Hi Art,
It is in the 1998 retired folder. There are some other formats too.
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/_1998_retired_files/treadmot.pdf
You might like to check my reply to William which includes...
Black and Yellow going to the field windings.
Blue and Brown going to the tach windings
Each of the brushes have spade terminals on them and no wires as yet.
Dave
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Posted by Wild_Bill on May 10, 2008, 6:12 pm
Please log in for more thread options First, you should determine what type of motor was used on the belt sander
(AC or DC), and any other info that you can find out about the motor,
especially if it was an AC induction motor.
You should determine what type of treadmill motor you have. The ones I got
from SC were 90 volt permanent magnet DC motors with a left-hand thread on
the end of the shaft (close to 1/2-13? LH thread).
You wouldn't want to try to connect a DC motor where there was an AC motor.
If the original motor wasn't a DC motor of the same voltage and speed, a DC
treadmill motor will require a DC drive, to drive and control the DC motor.
I don't have a HF belt sander, but I would expect the motor to be a low
quality Chinese AC motor (one of four types of AC motor.. ordinary AC
induction motor, a universal/brush-type motor, a split-phase AC motor, or
permanent split capacitor AC motor).
If the original motor is one of the AC motors that I just mentioned, a DC
motor is not much good to you without a DC drive.
WB
.........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html
> Hi,
>
> The motor on my HF 4 x 36 belt sander went belly up after only about 6
> or 8 years. Sheesh. I contacted HF for a new one and it is going to be
> 40-bucks plus shipping and 12 to 15 week wait. <sigh>
>
> I was scrounging around under the benches and found one of the
> Treadmill motors and controllers that Surplus Center used to sell.
>
> Problem is I have a bunch of wires hanging out of the motor and no
> idea who goes where.
>
> I checked the dropbox and there is a schematic for the controller but
> nothing for the wires to the motor.
>
> Can anyone please help me with how to wire this up.
>
> Thanks guys.
>
> Dave
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Posted by Dave on May 10, 2008, 6:54 pm
Please log in for more thread options Hi Bill,
Thanks for the reply.
The original motor was AC with a delay relay instead of start cap.
Therefore I cannot simply use a start cap as there is no centrifugal
switch in the motor. The AC motor runs fine, but I have to hand start it
to give it direction.
I'd also challenge the "cheap" statement as this thing has done 1000s of
hours work and had the switch-relay not fried I am sure it would do many
more 1000s as the motor runs smooth, cool and quiet.
The Treadmill motor that SC had gazillions of came with it's own
controller. I assumed people that were familiar with the treadmill motor
from SC would know what I am talking about. Sorry, I should have been
more specific.
The schematic in the drop box that I mentioned is for the GE controller.
I have both the GE controller and the GE DC treadmill motor. This motor
has a 5/8" shaft about 1-1/2" long and keyed 3/16" I think. It us rated
at 2hp, but given it's size and max current draw, I am guessing closer
to 3/4hp.
It is not a permanent magnet DC motor as it has windings.
Perhaps see my reply posts to William and Art as well.
Dave
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>
> The motor on my HF 4 x 36 belt sander went belly up after only about 6
> or 8 years. Sheesh. I contacted HF for a new one and it is going to be
> 40-bucks plus shipping and 12 to 15 week wait. <sigh>
>
> I was scrounging around under the benches and found one of the
> Treadmill motors and controllers that Surplus Center used to sell.
>
> Problem is I have a bunch of wires hanging out of the motor and no
> idea who goes where.
>
> I checked the dropbox and there is a schematic for the controller but
> nothing for the wires to the motor.
>
> Can anyone please help me with how to wire this up.
>
> Thanks guys.
>
> Dave