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General Metalworking - All aspects of working with metal.
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Posted by Dave on May 11, 2008, 11:31 am
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Hi William,
Thanks for the great suggestion, I would be happy to do that but you
have just exceeded my knowledge of electrics and electronics. <grin> In
anticipation of a reply like this, yesterday I measured the following.
The motor has 3 wires going inside the body, Red, White and Brown.
Red - White is 2 Ohms
Red - Brown is 6 Ohms
White - Brown is 7 Ohms
If I apply power to two wires and kick start the motor by hand after
about 3 seconds I get a steady, no load current draw of
Red - White 7 Amps
Red - Brown 3.2 Amps
White - Brown 13 Amps.
I am guessing at 7A the Red - White are 115v the running pair. So now
where do I put the momentary switch?
Thanks for all the help so far.
Dave
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Posted by William Noble on May 11, 2008, 1:37 pm
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> Hi William,
>
> Thanks for the great suggestion, I would be happy to do that but you have
> just exceeded my knowledge of electrics and electronics. <grin> In
> anticipation of a reply like this, yesterday I measured the following.
>
> The motor has 3 wires going inside the body, Red, White and Brown.
>
> Red - White is 2 Ohms
> Red - Brown is 6 Ohms
> White - Brown is 7 Ohms
>
> If I apply power to two wires and kick start the motor by hand after about
> 3 seconds I get a steady, no load current draw of
>
> Red - White 7 Amps
> Red - Brown 3.2 Amps
> White - Brown 13 Amps.
>
> I am guessing at 7A the Red - White are 115v the running pair. So now
> where do I put the momentary switch?
>
> Thanks for all the help so far.
>
> Dave
ok, try wiring it as follows
White wire - hook to power
Red wire - hook to on/off switch
other side of on/off switch - hook to power
Brown wire - hook to momentary switch
Other side of momentary switch - hook to red wire
test it, if it works and seems to run normally, then it's done. if it
sounds like it's working "hard", then it's not right - try other
combinations - if it doesn't start right, try connecting the momentary
switch to white instead of red, but I'm reasonably sure the above is correct
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
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Posted by Dave on May 11, 2008, 2:27 pm
Please log in for more thread options Thanks William, very much appreciated. I currently have the Red and
White connected to the Mains switch (both lines switched) and it has a
propensity to start and run CCW.
If it starts from a standstill, it gives a growl for about 1/3 second,
Amps shoot to about 13 then it runs CCW at 7A.
Surprisingly if I load the pulley light to moderately, Amps drop to
about 6.5. If I increase load to high then it goes back up to around 9A
at stall. Beats me but then I don't know much about this stuff.
I will go try the wiring you suggested and I think the following
suggestion will be the right one.
> Brown wire - hook to momentary switch
> Other side of momentary switch - hook to red wire
Thanks so much again.
Dave
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Posted by Ron Moore on May 11, 2008, 11:55 pm
Please log in for more thread options From what it sounds like, you're not connecting this motor directly to AC
power, are you? It certainly sounds like a DC motor from what I can glean
from the thread. If so, NO AC!!!
Ron
> Thanks William, very much appreciated. I currently have the Red and White
> connected to the Mains switch (both lines switched) and it has a
> propensity to start and run CCW.
>
> If it starts from a standstill, it gives a growl for about 1/3 second,
> Amps shoot to about 13 then it runs CCW at 7A.
>
> Surprisingly if I load the pulley light to moderately, Amps drop to about
> 6.5. If I increase load to high then it goes back up to around 9A at
> stall. Beats me but then I don't know much about this stuff.
>
> I will go try the wiring you suggested and I think the following
> suggestion will be the right one.
>
>> Brown wire - hook to momentary switch
>> Other side of momentary switch - hook to red wire
>
> Thanks so much again.
>
> Dave
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Posted by Dave on May 11, 2008, 5:00 pm
Please log in for more thread options Woohooo William, the belt sander lives again.
Thanks, that did the trick. The first try was wired as described, the
motor just growled. I swapped the momentary switch wire to the Neutral
side of the mains and bingo. Starts in an instant, CCW every time.
Thank you so much for suggesting a momentary switch to replace the
relay. I would never have thought of it.
I had a suitable switch in the scrap box. I purchased a $20 box of mixed
switches from one of the surplus places and as it turns out I got three
robust momentary in the batch. A no cost repair, my favorite.
I am guessing this cheap Chinese motor will last another 10 years. <g>
Thanks also to all who offered help with the treadmill motor. I'd still
like to know how to wire it just in case I need to use it the future.
Dave
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>
> Thanks for the great suggestion, I would be happy to do that but you have
> just exceeded my knowledge of electrics and electronics. <grin> In
> anticipation of a reply like this, yesterday I measured the following.
>
> The motor has 3 wires going inside the body, Red, White and Brown.
>
> Red - White is 2 Ohms
> Red - Brown is 6 Ohms
> White - Brown is 7 Ohms
>
> If I apply power to two wires and kick start the motor by hand after about
> 3 seconds I get a steady, no load current draw of
>
> Red - White 7 Amps
> Red - Brown 3.2 Amps
> White - Brown 13 Amps.
>
> I am guessing at 7A the Red - White are 115v the running pair. So now
> where do I put the momentary switch?
>
> Thanks for all the help so far.
>
> Dave