Troy tiller update on engine blow up

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Troy tiller update on engine blow up stryped 07-21-2008
Posted by stryped on July 21, 2008, 9:27 am
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I have an early 80's Troy bilt horse tiller. I was telling you the
other day that it "blew up". It is a heavy cast iron techumseh 6 horse
elctric start engine. I took it slightly apart this weekend.. I was
able to move the piston rod assembly out the top with my hand. The
only thing that seems wrong is the bottom of the rod that attaches to
the crank disintergrated. Can I fix this by just replacing the rod and
using the existing piston/rings? The crank journal the best I could
tell did not have any chunks or anythign missing from it.

It seems alot cheaper than buying a new engine. I only use the tiller
in the summers to till between the rows of my garden.




Posted by Michael A. Terrell on July 21, 2008, 10:50 am
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stryped wrote:
>
> I have an early 80's Troy bilt horse tiller. I was telling you the
> other day that it "blew up". It is a heavy cast iron techumseh 6 horse
> elctric start engine. I took it slightly apart this weekend.. I was
> able to move the piston rod assembly out the top with my hand. The
> only thing that seems wrong is the bottom of the rod that attaches to
> the crank disintergrated. Can I fix this by just replacing the rod and
> using the existing piston/rings? The crank journal the best I could
> tell did not have any chunks or anythign missing from it.
>
> It seems alot cheaper than buying a new engine. I only use the tiller
> in the summers to till between the rows of my garden.


Is the crank in good shape. If it is, _I_ would try it.


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Posted by Dave C on July 21, 2008, 11:49 am
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If the case is ok and no scores on the cylinder then you are in good
shape to put a new connecting rod in the thing and get a few more
years on it.

Tecumseh engines are very prone to this, in fact the rule around here
is never start a Tecumseh from the side only the front as it is that
common to throw a rod in the things, especially in the first startup
in the spring.

The part is cheap in the 15 buck range and most good shops will have
them in stock. (I wonder why they are best sellers)

http://tewarehouse.com/Catalog/0579 has a range of rods for your
particular model



On Mon, 21 Jul 2008 10:50:20 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"

>
>stryped wrote:
>>
>> I have an early 80's Troy bilt horse tiller. I was telling you the
>> other day that it "blew up". It is a heavy cast iron techumseh 6 horse
>> elctric start engine. I took it slightly apart this weekend.. I was
>> able to move the piston rod assembly out the top with my hand. The
>> only thing that seems wrong is the bottom of the rod that attaches to
>> the crank disintergrated. Can I fix this by just replacing the rod and
>> using the existing piston/rings? The crank journal the best I could
>> tell did not have any chunks or anythign missing from it.
>>
>> It seems alot cheaper than buying a new engine. I only use the tiller
>> in the summers to till between the rows of my garden.
>
>
> Is the crank in good shape. If it is, _I_ would try it.

Posted by stryped on July 21, 2008, 12:54 pm
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Where are the cheapest places to look for the rod?



> If the case is ok and no scores on the cylinder then you are in good
> shape to put a new connecting rod in the thing and get a few more
> years on it.
>
> Tecumseh engines are very prone to this, in fact the rule around here
> is never start a Tecumseh from the side only the front as it is that
> common to throw a rod in the things, especially in the first startup
> in the spring.
>
> The part is cheap in the 15 buck range and most good shops will have
> them in stock. (I wonder why they are best sellers)
>
> http://tewarehouse.com/Catalog/0579has a range of rods for your
> particular model
>
> On Mon, 21 Jul 2008 10:50:20 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
>
>
>
>
> >stryped wrote:
>
> >> I have an early 80's Troy bilt horse tiller. I was telling you the
> >> other day that it "blew up". It is a heavy cast iron techumseh 6 horse
> >> elctric start engine. I took it slightly apart this weekend.. I was
> >> able to move the piston rod assembly out the top with my hand. The
> >> only thing that seems wrong is the bottom of the rod that attaches to
> >> the crank disintergrated. Can I fix this by just replacing the rod and
> >> using the existing piston/rings? The crank journal the best I could
> >> tell did not have any chunks or anythign missing from it.
>
> >> It seems alot cheaper than buying a new engine. I only use the tiller
> >> in the summers to till between the rows of my garden.
>
> > =A0Is the crank in good shape. =A0If it is, _I_ would try it.- Hide quo=
ted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -


Posted by Dave C on July 21, 2008, 1:18 pm
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http://tewarehouse.com/Catalog/0579





On Mon, 21 Jul 2008 09:54:30 -0700 (PDT), stryped

>Where are the cheapest places to look for the rod?
>
>
>
>> If the case is ok and no scores on the cylinder then you are in good
>> shape to put a new connecting rod in the thing and get a few more
>> years on it.
>>
>> Tecumseh engines are very prone to this, in fact the rule around here
>> is never start a Tecumseh from the side only the front as it is that
>> common to throw a rod in the things, especially in the first startup
>> in the spring.
>>
>> The part is cheap in the 15 buck range and most good shops will have
>> them in stock. (I wonder why they are best sellers)
>>
>> http://tewarehouse.com/Catalog/0579has a range of rods for your
>> particular model
>>
>> On Mon, 21 Jul 2008 10:50:20 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> >stryped wrote:
>>
>> >> I have an early 80's Troy bilt horse tiller. I was telling you the
>> >> other day that it "blew up". It is a heavy cast iron techumseh 6 horse
>> >> elctric start engine. I took it slightly apart this weekend.. I was
>> >> able to move the piston rod assembly out the top with my hand. The
>> >> only thing that seems wrong is the bottom of the rod that attaches to
>> >> the crank disintergrated. Can I fix this by just replacing the rod and
>> >> using the existing piston/rings? The crank journal the best I could
>> >> tell did not have any chunks or anythign missing from it.
>>
>> >> It seems alot cheaper than buying a new engine. I only use the tiller
>> >> in the summers to till between the rows of my garden.
>>
>> >  Is the crank in good shape.  If it is, _I_ would try it.- Hide quoted text
-
>>
>> - Show quoted text -

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