Turning acrylic/plexiglass rod on a lathe

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Turning acrylic/plexiglass rod on a lathe eljainc 05-27-2008
Posted by eljainc on May 27, 2008, 3:47 pm
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Hello,

I know this is not specifically metal related, but we have some
acrylic rod that we are trying to machine using a lathe. The problem
with acrylic is that it melts as the bit is cutting into it. We have
tried various speeds, with little effort. Would it help to keep the
material cool using a water spray or some other means? Is there a
particular bit/material that is good to use?

Thanks for any ideas or pointers.

Mike

Posted by Mechanical Magic on May 27, 2008, 4:17 pm
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Mike,
HSS with very high rake for OD turning, same for boring.
Small tool tip radius and Diamond honed very sharp.
Surface speed is very tolerant.
Light feed rates are fine, Shop Vac is good to keep the snow off
everything.

Drilling is a whole n'other story.
Zero rake, slow PRM's slow feed. Peck a lot to remove the chips.

Plastic polishing compound as a lube, for drilling and tapping

Dave



> Hello,
>
> I know this is not specifically metal related, but we have some
> acrylic rod that we are trying to machine using a lathe. The problem
> with acrylic is that it melts as the bit is cutting into it. We have
> tried various speeds, with little effort. Would it help to keep the
> material cool using a water spray or some other means? Is there a
> particular bit/material that is good to use?
>
> Thanks for any ideas or pointers.
>
> Mike


Posted by Tim Shoppa on May 27, 2008, 4:20 pm
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> Hello,
>
> I know this is not specifically metal related, but we have some
> acrylic rod that we are trying to machine using a lathe. The problem
> with acrylic is that it melts as the bit is cutting into it. We have
> tried various speeds, with little effort. Would it help to keep the
> material cool using a water spray or some other means? =A0 Is there a
> particular bit/material that is good to use?
>
> Thanks for any ideas or pointers.

I have generally found polycarbonate easier to turn than plexiglass.
Polycarbonate is not immune to the melting problems but it tends to
cut at typical metalworking tool speeds/angles rather than melt and
gum up everything.

For drilling plexiglass, or cutting plexiglass, there are special
drill and saw blades, but I didn't find anything special for turning
plexiglass that actually worked for me.

Tim.

Posted by Randy Replogle on May 27, 2008, 6:04 pm
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eljainc wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I know this is not specifically metal related, but we have some
> acrylic rod that we are trying to machine using a lathe. The problem
> with acrylic is that it melts as the bit is cutting into it. We have
> tried various speeds, with little effort. Would it help to keep the
> material cool using a water spray or some other means? Is there a
> particular bit/material that is good to use?
>
> Thanks for any ideas or pointers.
>
> Mike


Try soapy water as a coolant/cutting fluid. Be sure to clean up well
afterwards (rust).
RR


Posted by Bruce L. Bergman on May 28, 2008, 12:16 am
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On Tue, 27 May 2008 22:04:15 GMT, Randy Replogle
>eljainc wrote:

>> I know this is not specifically metal related, but we have some
>> acrylic rod that we are trying to machine using a lathe. The problem
>> with acrylic is that it melts as the bit is cutting into it. We have
>> tried various speeds, with little effort. Would it help to keep the
>> material cool using a water spray or some other means? Is there a
>> particular bit/material that is good to use?


Slow and easy, scary sharp tools.

For drill bits, shallow rake and scary sharp - the plastics centers
sell the right drill bits already pre-ground for use. If you try
modifying your own drill bits for plastics, use a Drill Doctor or
other precision sharpening jig. If the point is sharpened off-center
that drill bit will try to make a conical hole, or a hard left turn,
or other disasters.

>Try soapy water as a coolant/cutting fluid. Be sure to clean up well
>afterwards (rust).

And whatever you do, DO NOT use any solvents or lubricants on the
plastic (either acrylic or polycarbonate) that are not specifically
approved for use on it - Read The (Friendly) Manual.

Solvent embrittlement can destroy the item in 15 seconds, or set up
a 'slow burn' that will wait a few days before it starts crazing and
cracking.

--<< Bruce >>--


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