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Posted by Ignoramus25337 on August 3, 2008, 4:25 pm
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Has anyone tried it? Perhaps after filtering it?
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Posted by on August 3, 2008, 8:02 pm
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On Aug 3, 2:25=A0pm, Ignoramus25337 <ignoramus25...@NOSPAM.
25337.invalid> wrote:
> Has anyone tried it? Perhaps after filtering it?
> --
Motor oil does the exact opposite of what you want when cutting, it's
SUPPOSED to keep the various bits from digging in to each other.
Sulfurized and chlorinated compounds in the various cutting fluids
promote that. About all you'd get is a coolant effect and water-based
compounds would be cheaper for that and probably less toxic. Lots of
nasties in used motor oil.
Stan
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Posted by Grunty Grogan on August 3, 2008, 8:44 pm
Please log in for more thread options On Sun, 03 Aug 2008 15:25:23 -0500, Ignoramus25337
>Has anyone tried it? Perhaps after filtering it?
Oh damn, I almost forgot this episode.
Long ago I worked for the CHEAPEST Swamp Yankee on Earth. He had a
machine shop with a gas pump out front. You were supposed to stop in
mid-cut to run out front and pump gas because the gas sales paid the
rent. Every time he did an oil change for someone, we all got new
"cutting fluid". Since it was in a not-too-rich area, the oil was
always long overdue for changing.
The day he handed out oil after an oil change in a Mercededs Diesel
was my last day there. I walked out. My wife had stopped by to bring
me a lunch, looked around, sniffed, and said "QUIT NOW!"
We went though a LOT of cutting fluid because all the end mills were
dull. ALL his machinery, he bought from junk dealers by the pound.
They were RUSTY.
Because he had less than seven employees, he did not have to have a
toilet there. Employees were expected to alk down the street to the
Police station and use theirs. He was also not required to have
Workmens' Comp Insurance. He used to get kids right out of Vocational
School. They'd leave shortly, disillusioned, and he'd just go back and
get more.
He got his one year, though, since a town full of bored pissed off
kids decided it would be funny to break in while he was on vacation
shutdown. They took the chucks off the lathes and the kellering
Threading Mill and ran carbide in to spindles and generally wrecked
the place. Not that it was any loss.
The short answer is "Don't be like HIM".
You can get a gallon of soluble oil or synthetic from McMaster, etc
reasonably and it lasts a long time. Don't do this to yourself. Old
motor oil is full of carcinogens and additives and its characertistics
are shot. Even new motor oil or transmission fluid or spindle oil are
not that great for cutting...After all, are they not formulated to
PREVENT metal removal?
For steels and the stainlesses I have had good results with the heavy
duty soluble oils. The Amine based "Synthetic biodegradable" work
VERY well with aluminum and copper, etc.
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Posted by ED on August 3, 2008, 11:55 pm
Please log in for more thread options On Sun, 03 Aug 2008 15:25:23 -0500, Ignoramus25337
>Has anyone tried it? Perhaps after filtering it?
If you have to be cheap on cutting oil, try bacon
grease.
Filter it through a coffee filter and brush
it on with an acid brush. Cut it with mineral spirits
to keep it liquid in cold weather and from going rancid.
I've used it with verygood results, it's said that the salt in
the bacon will rust the work/tools but I've not found that
to be true..the smoke smells like frying bacon till you
add the mineral spirits. ED
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Posted by Ed Huntress on August 4, 2008, 12:58 am
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> On Sun, 03 Aug 2008 15:25:23 -0500, Ignoramus25337
>
>>Has anyone tried it? Perhaps after filtering it?
>
>
> If you have to be cheap on cutting oil, try bacon
> grease.
>
> Filter it through a coffee filter and brush
> it on with an acid brush. Cut it with mineral spirits
> to keep it liquid in cold weather and from going rancid.
>
> I've used it with verygood results, it's said that the salt in
> the bacon will rust the work/tools but I've not found that
> to be true..the smoke smells like frying bacon till you
> add the mineral spirits. ED
The advice here is a lot better than the last time this subject came up. As
someone said, motor oil and cutting oil are almost opposites; tools actually
can skate a bit before cutting into the work when you use motor oil, which
will dull edges on HSS tools in a hurry.
Lard oil, with sulfur and chlorine in it or not, is good for smaller or
older machine tools, where power is low and cooling is not the issue. On
those machines, reducing cutting force is the issue. Water-soluble
(miscible) oils are good, but they're really engineered to cool more than to
lubricate the cut.
The ideal is an oil that resists high-pressure penetration of the oil film
(thus the sulfur) but without the extreme high-pressure lubricity of modern
motor oils.
Lard oil is the same thing as bacon fat but without the stearin that makes
fat so thick and viscous. It works better with the stearin out of there. For
ordinary cutting on small or old machines, using HSS tools, plain lard oil
is hard to beat (I use Buttercut, which is plain lard oil). The chlorine in
some formulations is supposed to make it easier to cut harder steels; I
don't have enough experience with it to tell. Sulfur really isn't necessary
until you're cutting with some horsepower.
--
Ed Huntress
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