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Posted by oldjag on July 24, 2008, 12:56 am
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Some metal content...I need to possibly replace a 40+ year old
galvanized pipe from well house to house about 20 feet away. The
pressure drop in the pipe while under flow has gradually been
increasing over the last few years, due to restrictions from rust and
mineral deposits. The line is buried 36" to 48" deep, and I believe
it is a straight run, (I did not put it in). Unfortunatly in the many
years since it was buried, a hickory and a pine 12" to 15" diameter
have grown up near the line. I have a backhoe, but I'm sure digging
it up would probably harm the tree roots, and I would rather not have
to cut them down. I'd like to replace the old galvanized line with a
new line of galvanized steel or copper, but instead of 3/4" diam,
something like 1 1/4" for minimal pressure drop to the house, (we do a
lot of plant watering). Thoughts on non invasive methods of replacing
the line are needed! Some ideas I had - maybe not good ones are the
following:
Pipe dream 1.) Take 2" pipe which I have on hand, and fit one end with
a hollow cutter like a rota-broach. This would then be pushed over
the existing 3/4" pipe, while rotating it with a portable pipe
threading head, which I could borrow. I would also be feeding water
in the open end of the pipe via a rotary coupling to help flush the
"tool". Hopefully the tool would follow the existing straight pipe
run to the well house 20 feet away, and I could simply use the 2" pipe
as a chase for the new 1 1/4" water line.
Pipe dream 2.) Pull the old pipe with a hydraulic puller into the
house's walk in basement, while using the well house end of the old
pipe to pull in the new pipe. Plastic line could be used, but I like
the additional grounding of a metallic line, ( I have a 8' grounding
rod at the main service entrance and at the shop sub panel), as I do a
bit of TIG welding w/HF and I also think it helps with lightning
protection to have as much grounding area as possible. Pulling may
not work if there is a union underground which is a distinct
possibility.
Pipe dream 3.) make a water lance from 1/2" steel pipe, connect it to
a hose from the water outlet in the well house and use it to washout a
enough of a channel below the existing pipe to help free it up.
Pipe dream 4.) Try and rod out the existing 3/4" 40 year old water
line.
Or lastly, call a company that does water jet or Hydraulic pipe
installation under roadways, drives etc. Not sure what the cost on
this would be...I do have garage door access to the basement end of
the pipe for a reasonably sized machine if needed, but would need to
move some equipment out of the way.
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Posted by Bob AZ on July 24, 2008, 1:07 am
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=EF=BF=BDPlastic line could be used, but I like
> the additional grounding of a metallic line, ( I have a 8' grounding
> rod at the main service entrance and at the shop sub panel), as I do a
> bit of TIG welding w/HF and I also think it helps with lightning
> protection to have as much grounding area as possible. =EF=BF=BD
oldjag
Check to see if your local authorities still go along with metallic
pipe as a grounding medium. Some don't.
Bob AZ
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Posted by Winston on July 24, 2008, 2:08 am
Please log in for more thread options oldjag wrote:
> Some metal content...I need to possibly replace a 40+ year old
> galvanized pipe from well house to house about 20 feet away.
Faced with a similar problem, I firmly attached the end of a coil
of plastic pipe to the existing buried pipe with a coupler and pulled
the new pipe in place using the old pipe as a leader. Worked a treat
and thoroughly tested the clutch in a friend's truck. (He was driving!)
That said, this was done in very wet clay. I don't know how it
would work in other kinds of soil. Obviously an unknown tee would
obviate this plan.
--Winston
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Posted by x on July 24, 2008, 7:30 am
Please log in for more thread options i have also seen this done, pulling copper to replace my parent's rusty gal
service.
I asked the plumber what happened if it broke, he stated the obvious,
measure and dig a hole and start again! worst is digging a hole every few
feet, compared with the complete trench. A tree in the way would make it
difficult though~
russ (Melbourne, australia).
> Faced with a similar problem, I firmly attached the end of a coil
> of plastic pipe to the existing buried pipe with a coupler and pulled
> the new pipe in place using the old pipe as a leader. Worked a treat
> and thoroughly tested the clutch in a friend's truck. (He was driving!)
>
> That said, this was done in very wet clay. I don't know how it
> would work in other kinds of soil. Obviously an unknown tee would
> obviate this plan.
>
> --Winston
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Posted by kfvorwerk@gmail.com on July 24, 2008, 7:30 am
Please log in for more thread options > Some metal content...I need to possibly replace a 40+ year old
> galvanized pipe from well house to house about 20 feet away. =A0The
> pressure drop in the pipe while under flow has gradually been
> increasing over the last few years, due to restrictions from rust and
> mineral deposits. =A0The line is buried 36" to 48" deep, and I believe
> it is a straight run, (I did not put it in). Unfortunatly in the many
> years since it was buried, a hickory and a pine 12" to 15" diameter
> have grown up near the line. =A0I have a backhoe, but I'm sure digging
> it up would probably harm the tree roots, and I would rather not have
> to cut them down. =A0I'd like to replace the old galvanized line with a
> new line of galvanized steel or copper, but instead of 3/4" diam,
> something like 1 1/4" for minimal pressure drop to the house, (we do a
> lot of plant watering). =A0Thoughts on non invasive methods of replacing
> the line are needed! =A0Some ideas I had - maybe not good ones are the
> following:
>
> Pipe dream 1.) Take 2" pipe which I have on hand, and fit one end with
> a hollow cutter like a rota-broach. =A0This would then be pushed over
> the existing 3/4" pipe, while rotating it with a portable pipe
> threading head, which I could borrow. =A0I would also be feeding water
> in the open end of the pipe via a rotary coupling to help flush the
> "tool". =A0Hopefully the tool would follow the existing straight pipe
> run to the well house 20 feet away, and I could simply use the 2" pipe
> as a chase for the new 1 1/4" water line.
>
> Pipe dream 2.) Pull the old pipe with a hydraulic puller into the
> house's walk in basement, while using the well house end of the old
> pipe to pull in the new pipe. =A0Plastic line could be used, but I like
> the additional grounding of a metallic line, ( I have a 8' grounding
> rod at the main service entrance and at the shop sub panel), as I do a
> bit of TIG welding w/HF and I also think it helps with lightning
> protection to have as much grounding area as possible. =A0Pulling may
> not work if there is a union underground which is a distinct
> possibility.
>
> Pipe dream 3.) make a water lance from 1/2" steel pipe, =A0connect it to
> a hose from the water outlet in the well house and use it to washout a
> enough of a channel below the existing pipe to help free it up.
>
> Pipe dream 4.) Try and rod out the existing 3/4" 40 year old water
> line.
>
> Or lastly, call a company that does water jet or Hydraulic pipe
> installation under roadways, drives etc. =A0Not sure what the cost on
> this would be...I do have garage door access to the basement end of
> the pipe for a reasonably sized machine if needed, but would need to
> move some equipment out of the way.
Why not just dig a U around the tree? It'll cost a bit more in work
and time but it's not like you'll be trenching by hand.
Karl
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> rod at the main service entrance and at the shop sub panel), as I do a
> bit of TIG welding w/HF and I also think it helps with lightning
> protection to have as much grounding area as possible. =EF=BF=BD